When is veg time


#21

The side where ph and ppm seem to change like magic in minutes and plant deficiencies are easily corrected :wink: Where dirt doesn’t mess up your space :stuck_out_tongue:


#22

I’ve had a few runs is hydro back before I was using fox farms and I lost a couple plants my first round or 2, but I eventually got a decent harvest on my 3rd and then decidied to run my bucket side by side with a 5 gallon cloth pot and promix and it won me over for now, but I’ll bring back the hydro buckets once I get some good grows out of the promix.


#23

Lol there may be a time I will try it…


#24

I grow in both soil and hydro each has it’s good and bad


#25

Yeah hydro is nice because of how fast they can grow and you can correct issues quicker, but on the down side if you don’t catch it early it could spell disaster


#26

I started out in ffof and I liked that now I’m in pro-mix hp and I’m liking it along with the advanced ph perfect nutes working out great


#27

If I was growing from seed , I would say after 5 set’s of leaves and your at the beginning of veg… that’s also when I start to top them… :wink:
As far as soil or hydro … I’ve only been growing hydro for a lil over a year and a half and just now got everything dialed in and I’m killing it… more then a gram per watt by far… when I was in soil I could only get 3/4 of a gram per watt in same environment and lighting… I would be hard pressed to ever go back to soil… after you figure things out and your style of hydro growing , it’s too danm easy… :wink:
Just my 2 cents… :wink:

:v: :sunglasses:


#28

trainwreck 12 days veg


#29

Gold Leaf 12 days veg


#30

I started at 200 ppm (water 45). Lights at 600 watts. After 5 days, increased ppm to 300 and turned lights up to 750w. Now running at 535 ppm. Ph is dropping daily about .5. Lights now at 1000w. Am I doing anything wrong? How can I get my Ph stabilized?


#31

Also want to know about “kool bloom” @Donaldj


#32

How large res are you using? and is ppm rising or falling between changes?


#33

Using 3, 20 gallon trash cans. 2 for plants, 1 for resivoir. Ppm’s are holding fairly steady, within 10 points. Haven’t changed water yet, will Wednesday.


#34

I’ve been running my water level just a few inches below my net pot. I read the other day that you don’t want your roots totally submerged. What should it be on " the dark side" @Donaldj


#35

I went and checked on them just now. Ppm’s had risen 20 points but Ph had only dropped to 5.7 @Donaldj


#36

Roots can’t be entirely submerged is just meaning that netpot needs to remain 1-1 1/2" inches above nutrient level close enough bursting bubbles mist hydroton. It is fairly normal for ph to change some within 24hr’s of top off or res change this is simply result of nutrients interacting in mixture a ppm climb or fall will often swing ph too. What have your res temps been like? there is a sweet spot between too cold and too warm 66-70 I find is best range much cooler and plants look wilty warmer and run risk of root rot


#37

Came back and checked again. Water temp 70.5. Added 3 frozen water bottles. Ph 5.6. Added 5ml ph up @Donaldj


#38

How much air are you pumping in at 70f dissolved oxygen starts to get lower there is a direct relation between DO and temps pumps are rated Gallons per hour Gph or Liters per minute Lpm you can run 70f if you are pushing loads of air cooler nutrient solution holds more o2 so needs less air. I also try to keep root zone 10f cooler than plants top


#39

I will check when I go back over there this evening. I’m running 2 air stones in each container with plant. Not in reservoir. I have another air pump and stones if I need them


#40

@Donaldj… how are you able to keep your root zone 10 degrees cooler?