No problem. I’ll be in and out for a while so just hit me up before you buy anything if you’re unsure.
Getting those gen 1 strips would’ve ruined your day with that driver. If you want to s light with them we can, but you would need s different driver or less strips and would be lower performance light. They’re not bad though, my veg light is gen 1 strips.
Ill go newer thanks 
And im not buying tonight. Just getting order in line. Need my stuff together
Try this one.
BXEB-L0280Z-35E1000-C-B3
In stock at arrow for $3.88 and digikey for something like $3.60.
That is interesting! Could squeeze in possibly 2 boards!
Would need a stronger driver then huh? Or maybe just two?
You mean price wise? That’s why I said to look at the 3500k 
.
I wouldn’t put 20 on a single driver, but if that opened up some budget you would have a few options. 20 on two drivers would be a good option. Dropping to a lower output current and adding strips to a single driver would gain you more light through efficiency. Or you could jump up to a 150 watt driver and do like 14 maybe 15 strips and just make a bigger light.
I thought all that time about my options. And in the back of my head i kept saying 20 had to be over kill. 15 sounds more like what i maybe can accomplish. No need for seperate lights at the moment. Growing mostly autos and any photos i have i want to play with so they can 18/6 and up until the winter. Thanks man… about that driver tho? 
Edit: i see 150 watt. Bingo
Edit Again: now to draw up a system
Last Edit: 12x18 
Sometimes im too smart for my own good
Those strips come in 3 sizes that make the voltage and current vary.
The 280mm 19.5v nominal and 700ma max.
The 560mm 19.5v nominal and 1400ma max
The 1120mm 39v nominal and 1400ma max.
I’m sure you see what they did there. When the length doubles they either double the voltage or the current. Although those are listed as safe currents, I wouldn’t run them at max under most circumstances.
So ideally you should pick the size that fits your space the best, and then figure out about how many strips you need vs what’s easily available for drivers.
I’m thinking Hgl 185/700ma or 185/1400ma for say a 5 cob 36v setup ran in a series
And the part I don’t get is if you go 1400 you are running it hard and the 700 is soft so is it better to go soft or hard
Im actually FOLLOWING this convo now
You wouldn’t be able to use the hlg-185h-1400 for 5 36v cobs. Series wiring you need to add up the voltage so 36x5 = 180v
The CC region of the 185h-1400 is 71v-143v whereas the 185h-700 is 143-286v
Well 1400ma is twice the current than 700ma. So you would be running it twice as hard. But, running them hard at either current would vary by the model.
1400ma is pretty standard for all of the bigger 36v cobs. Say a cxb3590, citi 1216, vero 29. All of those cobs would be considerably less than max current there. But there are several 36v cobs that aren’t even rated for as high as 1400ma. The vero 29 d has a max current of around 5 amps, so you’ll see a lot of them even driven to 2100ma. In most cases it’s about playing the optimum current range for each particular cob vs the build cost. And that usually starts somewhere around required light levels for the space you have. If you have a 3x3 and you care about efficiency, you’d be looking at something like 6 3590’s or 1216’s at about 1400ma. If you want to save some money, you can get high enough par levels out 4 vero 29’s at 2100ma. They’re not quite as efficient as the other cobs at 1400ma, but they’re more efficient than both at 2100ma. Making sense so far? In most cases the higher voltage cobs are more efficient at the same power levels. So the jumping to the 52 vero 29 at 1400ma is more efficient than the 36v at 2100ma.
You then get into playing the game of which cobs fit on which drivers the best. That’s a whole different story and can change your mind very quickly. Like for instance, you’re not going to fit five 36v cobs on an hlg-185h-c1400. I know that off the top of my head. Most of them will fit 5 on the 1050ma model though. Which would be closer to having 40 watt cobs. If you drop down to 700ma, you’re looking at 7-8 cobs per driver.
I do this stuff at least 3-4 times a week for someone, so most of this info I can just fire off the top of my head. How big is your grow space?
You beat me to it lol. Was mid reply and had screaming baby.
I figured you were in the midst of typing it haha.
Its pretty simple once you know what you’re looking for to find a driver you need.
Take the voltage of the Cob you’re looking for. If wiring in series you will add the voltages together ( amount of COBS)
so if you’re using 36v cobs. Multiply that by the current you want to run them at.
36v x 1.4a = 50.4w (per cob)
50.4w x 5 = 252w
So you’re looking for a driver with at least 252w and 180v Constant Current region with 1400mA being your current.
Looking at the HLG-240h-c1400 you get the specs: Rated Power: 250.6w (max), Constant Current Region: 89v-179v (looking for 180)
So this might be out of our range.
Depending on the COB, 1400mA might drop the voltage of the COB slightly. I know the Cree 3590 when at 1400mA is really 34.48v so that would drop everything and put you in range to use the HLG-240h-c1400. You would just need to check the datasheet to see the voltage drop for the current. I think the Citi 1212 cobs stay 36v
Alternatively you could drop the current applied to those COBS and fit it on a driver.
Say you dropped it to 1050mA
Lets look at the HLG-185h-c1050
Rated Power: 199.5w Constant Current Region: 95v-190v
36v x 1.05A = 37.8W per COB
37.8W x 5 = 189W so we are below our Rated Power.
and at 180v we are within our Constant Current region.
So you could throw 5 36v COBS on an hlg-185h-c1050 running each COB at 38W.
This can be applied to any LED across the board for finding a driver type. You just need to know the voltage of the COB and what current you want to run it at.
(@Dbrn32 pretty much hit it on the nose though)
Man… and i was doing so good. But i realized. I had no idea the convo even switchd to cobs… 
Anyway context clues and a full read and im semi understanding again! Even get drivers in general a bit better. If going 150 with 14 strips what difference does ‘running in parallel’ or … series? make?
It really doesn’t matter, It applies to both COBS and Strips. Just as long as you know the voltage of the COB. and the current doesn’t go over the max current. It will apply to both COBS and Strips. Even Quantum Boards.
Running in series is a bit different than parallel in a Constant Current driver will always provide the current the driver is rated for regardless on the amount of strips. So if you had 15 strips with a hlg-c1400mA driver. The strips will always get 1400mA regardless of the amount there is. You could remove one strip, and as long as you were still in the CC region. Each strip would still get 1400mA
Parallel wiring the driver has a set Amperage it will output divided up by the amount of LED’s in the wiring.
So if you had 15 strips, and the driver put out 12A each strip would get 800mA (0.8A) but if you were to remove 1 strip, the current to each strip would be higher and that would change to 857mA (0.857A) to each strip.
Series wiring is also a bit easier in that there is less chance of Thermal Runaway like you have with drivers wired in parallel as well.
That… didnt go completely over my head. Dammit the LightBulb Bros…
Haha theres just a bit of math involved in it is all. But once you get the math down. Its actually a pretty simple process.