I downloaded one and didn’t like it, but I don’t remember which one. Was two phones ago, sorry.
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The better the phone the better the reading i have an lg g8xthinq and my wife has the samsung Galaxy 10 and her readings are much more accurate then mine so I use hers to set until I get meter ordered
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I’ve got new 10s. Thanks for the advice. Do you know about how much a lux meter runs.
20-30$ lol… We pay more for our PH pens, but the difference in accuracy I don’t think is worth it, although if you buy one measure it against your two phones and let’s see the difference.
@EastCoastP6
32k = 500 PPFD. = 32.4 DLI
39k =600 PPFD =38.8 DLI
As you can see from above much can be gained in veg from a higher PPFD /DLI for the majority of the veg cycle.
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The chart just shows recommended DLI levels doesn’t it?
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It does, I Geuss I should have clarified with @Bulldognuts the age of your plants to make this more accurate
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All strains are different tho but this is what I go off of. after so much light its usless unless adding co2 just wastes is what ive always got from it. Light meter I wouldnt buy anything under 100$+ if using something other then your phone.
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Daily light integral is the explanation to where those number come from. Contrary to what most believe, the plants don’t need higher light intensity just because they are flowering. They need more light intensity to make up the difference in amount of time the lights are on. A ppfd average of 600 umols per second for 12 hours is the same amount of energy as a ppfd average of 400 umols per second for 18 hours.
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That makes things alot easier for me to understand when put that way
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@dbrn32 thanks for chiming in man.
@EastCoastP6 yeah HLG has a chart there but it does a poor job for cannabis growers in the aspect of the way it’s laid out and explained as far as PPFD goes at least the rest is great.
This is why I refrained from posting the same or different PPFD chart and stuck to the DLI graph.
Now when it comes to a LUX meter the tech isn’t expensive and I think a 30$ meter would be calibrated and out preform a 1500$ phone to be honest but a PAR meter is a different story.
Imo, it’s easier to buy light that gives you total ppf. From there your ppfd average is simply amount of light over area. To get a true sense of ppfd average otherwise, you would need to plot your space to probably 100+ measurements and run the math.
Do our HLG’s provide that? What’s it on my 320xl for example
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Hlg provides chart for 288 boards that wi give you estimate of ppf at given current.
But then you need to measure your current and they don’t provide a built in readout =(
Driver current is listed on the driver.
Right but it’s adjustable… Is it not?
Yup. You should buy to flower at full power. From there a 33% reduction in power and 33% in light schedule keeps same DLI. You can thumb eyeball that with built in pot.
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Ahh gotcha, yeah.
Hey question, I’m thinking about what you said in the fact that the DLI numbers needed in flower under a 12hr scedule are need more light because of the time limiting factor.
That being said i don’t know how to (at least this early in the morning) break it down to decide what we autoflower growers want when we run our 20/4 or 18/6…
Can I reverse the last part of that DLI chart to show 18/6?
Ugh sorry I can’t wrap my head around it right now…
Wait the DLI number would stay the same would it not and the way you achieve it is the variables, light strength and light time.
Also all these charts are made for clones ugh lol
Autos from. Seed get no love
You are making more difficult than needs to be. It’s amount of light energy over length of time. So if you run lights longer you don’t need as much light to hit peak DLI. Or if you increase time you don’t need as much light energy.
It’s different in each application. Someone who can hit light intensity levels on 12 hour schedule doesn’t need to run them any longer. But someone lacking in light output can make up for it by using longer flower schedule with autos.
Autos don’t get as much love because they hamper flexibility of indoor grows. Outside of not having light tight space, there’s literally no other reason to run them indoors. They don’t do anything that photo period plants can’t do. And you give up ability to control veg periods, keep mother plants, and clone effectively.
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