Hellraisers is a very skilled grower. Not sure where he has been lately… thankfully there is a plethora of his teachings around here! You will enjoy the apera PH pen, excellent choice.
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I’m looking at my two plastic potted plants and they both seem to be drooping a bit, the one I didn’t top has been doing it for a few days, and I’m seeing a lot of small and dense foliage underneath. There is one branch that has shot out under the topped one this afternoon that makes me think they may be trying to grow underneath and thats why the top leaves aren’t straight out getting as much light as possible. Does it look like it would be worth cutting some out, and how much do you think?
I’m also gonna have to start turning them it seems too, the topped lady is looking a little lopsided too.
If they were autos Id say no but since they are photos I dont think a leaf or two will be missed. Contrary wise if you tucked a leaf or two outta the way it would allow you to keep the leaf while allowing more light to the growing shoots.
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The lowest sets of fans. Probably your lowest 2 or 3 sets. As Blast said, anything that can touch the dirt is gonna rot and be potential problems. Better to cut that risk out now
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Alright! Thank you guys for unanimous vote to go ahead and trim! So I went ahead and trimmed off the bottom sets as everyone suggested and here is my handiwork. Another thing I’m looking at is that while I don’t water to runoff, my soil has shrunk down a bit more than I expected. Does anyone have experience doing like a 3 inch top dress with fresh soil and fertilizers? Do they act like tomatoes and grow fresh roots from the stem where it starts touching soil or will I need to really water in the topdress? I’ve grown plenty of vegetables outside over the years but I’ve never bothered with potted stuff or indoor growing until now and I’m wondering how to make use of this space thats opening up.
On another note, I stumbled across @Nicky 's DLI thread last night and found out my phone can give me some light numbers for free! I tested my TSL2000 @ 75% and I was getting 31.5 around the center of the tent and 27.8ish at the outsides. Following the suggested light schedule in that thread I immediately turned my light up to 100% and got 35.7 around the center and 29.9 around the outsides. I left it that way all night and in the morning everyone was nice and perky! They also don’t seem to mind the 88° they were at all night either.
I ordered an HLG UVA 30 XL on Monday as I’m planning on flipping them to flowering next week. Does anyone know if running that light during the normal veg cycle is a good idea? Not so much for this run, it might run like that for a few days at most, but future grows I might use it full time after 2-3 weeks to boost overall DLI if it doesn’t affect the plants rather than buy a better main light.
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I believe UVA is best used during flower but I can’t say with certainty.
I think the plant utilizes it more during flower, as in if you had to choose between when to use it, flower would be better than veg. But many lights with UVA/UVB/IR LEDS in them don’t have separate controls for those diodes (like mine doesn’t) so they are on at ALL times when light is on. Just like the sun tho! It pumps out UVA/UVB/UVC all the time, fortunately our atmosphere blocks UVC rays, otherwise everything would be dead!
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Hey bro they lookin great and idk if you get any benefit out of it durin veg stage or not but do some reading on it and see wutcha come up with but i know for sure it’s very beneficial during the flower stage… best of luck 
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I’m a HYDRO oriented grower, but my thinking now for both ways is that a 4x4 is the minimum grow space I need for a single plant, if I want light to get all around it
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Alright, it has been a little while again but I got my phone working and I’m back!
@anon1893985 Thanks, yeah I didn’t really expect anyone to know but it never hurts to ask, right? I might experiment with it on future grows. I kinda agree with @FrikkinFrank that 4x4 is a good minimum at this point, but I’m liking the results of my first grow in the 2x4!
@Graysin @Blastfact @Docnraq
Today starts week 4 of flowering, so updates. I found powdery white mildew and fungus gnats! I’ve been treating with Captain Jack’s Neem Seed Oil and spraying down the whole canopy as well as the soil on Sundays. I believe the gnats are gone, I haven’t seen any activity flying around the room or in the soil but I’m going to treat every 7 days until harvest at this point.
I still do see little strands of PWM in the crevices of random leaves however. I’m defoliating the big fan leaves as they start to show signs of wilting or if they are shadowing any smaller shoots below, as well as removing all the small flowers and fan leaves on the small shoots so that only the top is continuing to grow or removing the whole shoot if its just not tall enough at this point. I want to use the neem seed oil more often on the canopy to try and kill off the pwm for good, so I’m looking for opinions on how often to apply NSO, would you go every 5 days? every 3? I believe I am a month out from harvest at this point so I’d rather be a little harsher today and let it recover and the buds dry out in the last week or two. Humidity has been very consistently 45-55, never over for 3 weeks now.
Also, should I start defoliating more aggressively or do things look good? Like the little flowers in the 2nd picture, will they be better in 3-4 weeks or are they a bunch of nothingburgers?
Another concern I have is on the 2nd picture. I believe I found an immature seed emerging where I had pinched off a small flower that wasn’t growing a few days ago. Well it was either a seed or a baby male flower. I’m not sure, and if I find more I’ll post pictures. But if you rub a baby male flower apart in your fingers, will it be 2 layers of shell with a white green bean inside? I know GG4 is a hermaphrodite strain, so is this male flowers starting or just seeds emerging? Can I harvest said seeds if I let the plant grow to maturity? Should I tear apart a bud looking for immature seeds?
Some other notes
The slowpoke is now my largest and best growing plant by far! I put it and the 1st frontrunner in pots of 50/50 happy frog/ocean forest and mykos @ transplant with nothing else as I wasn’t sure if I was going to keep them. I picked up TPS One and Signal when I started noticing nitrogen deficiency and added it the water for both of them. I kept the other two on water with TPS Cal/Mag only until the 2nd frontrunner, or the plant on the farthest right, started showing nitrogen deficiency, and I switched everyone over to TPS One and Signal. They all seem to be happy, the sugar leaves are all green and healthy and I believe the buds are gonna grow a bit in the next few weeks, even if some hairs are changing colors at the tops of the canopy already.
I think that’s about it for now. I’m loving the way this is going and I can’t wait and dread the end of this grow lol. I’m looking forward to what you all think as well, so please let me know. I’m very much learning as I go and any ideas how to get the best quality out of everything I have at this point and defeat the PWM are very much appreciated!
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I think most people use a 3:1 water and peroxide solution for wpm. I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong. I keep Captain Jack’s copper fungicide on hand in case any mold appears. I hate fungus gnats. First grow I got an infestation. It started again this grow and I put a layer of Mosquito Bits on top of my coco then covered that with about 1.5"+/- of black sand. Gnats are completely gone.
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Use it at 50/50 ratio for WPM. Spray topside and bottoms of leaves just before lights out so the plants don’t burn.
Been there, done that. Last harvest! Had to spray twice, last time about 2 weeks before harvest. Then definitely do a bud wash when you harvest, use double-strength, so 2 cups h2o2 per 5 gallons of water. I’d also do a heavy wet trim before the wash too, cut off most of that crap first. Yeah, the dry won’t take as long, but better fast dry time rather than leaving a source of those spores and extra moisture for said spores to grow.
It’s a PITA but can be saved!
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Agreed. I will wipe off my WPM with a peroxide soaked paper towel and chuck it, then give everyone a thorough spray down of 30/70 or 50/50, less concentrated if I only saw a bit and am less concerned. More concentrated if you have it in more than one spot.
Also very true. After a certain point, it becomes about saving your filtration system and environment from having a perpetual wpm issue.
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@Outlaw @Blastfact @Graysin @Spudgunner
Right on, thanks for the advice! I don’t think I’m in a cut your losses situation yet, it’s mostly by the tent door and both my circulation fans are set up to blow out the door to try keep stuff i may bring in from getting too far.
I picked up a bottle of the copper fungacide on Amazon, i should have that tomorrow.
And has anyone tried fumigating a tent with 50/50 h2o2/h2o through a cool mist humidifier? I’ve read a couple articles that talk about treating houseplants daily for a week to get infestation under control then backing off, but always with a sprayer. I’m thinking of loading up the humidifier, run it on high for 20 minutes with the exhaust fan off and circulation fans on, turn off humidifier, turn on exhaust fan. If that won’t harm the plants it could be an effective way to start treating the whole environment. Any thoughts?
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I don’t know enough about the chemistry behind hydrogen peroxide to know if humidifiering it would render it inert - may work just fine. I’m not versed enough to say either way.
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@Graysin i was reading up on it because i was worried it might be dangerous to breathe but apparently they use it in nebulizers for some conditions. They do say it has to be a cool mist unit though, heating releases the extra oxygen. I think I’ll give it a shot tomorrow before i leave for work.
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