I prefer easy. But the driver seems to decide what we build
I can’t decide for you lol. He’s usually pretty detailed in those videos. If that’s something you want to do, I can definitely make sure you get the right components though.
I think the cross bar in the front may cause an issue.
4 cobs would be an easier build
But 8 wouldn’t be that much harder imo.
Whatever balances best light with lowerst cost.
I agree, that cross bar has ruined the best option.
Well going with 4 cobs only. Two clu-058-3816 start at like $52 each. Then two 50-72 volt cobs would range $20-$30 each depending on which you choose. Figure cob holders and other materials you’ll be buying anyway. And that’s per light.
Adding some monos, the vero 29c is cheapest high voltage cob that’s worth a damn. To best of my knowledge anyway. You can usually grab them for around $25. 4 monos per driver would put you high enough voltage. You can usually pick good ones up for about $3 each. 660’s are an option that would open up cob color temp choice. But they wouldn’t have to be reds. If we found a smoking deal on 2700k cobs the monos could be blue, or cold whites. All those little details could be flexible.
If you’re open to doing 8 cobs. There was some decent prices on 50v vero 22 if you can find them, like $15. 2 of those and two vero 18 ($10ish each) should put you there. That’s $100 per light in leds.
$100 in leds per light sounds like the best option. That being said I can remove the glass and cross bar if it gets me a better
Light at a similar cost.
Up to you. What did we price the other at? Like $36 in strips and $40ish in cobs if you went that route? Again there’s other equipment you’d need, but you’ll be buying majority of that stuff regardless.
I watched one of the hacks by growmau5 he checked voltage to see current from
THe driver. I Can do that. Could we possible be working with less than 700ma? Or is it a math problem where you take away what the fan needs. Is 700 what the driver gives to the light or what the driver has available and how much does the fan eat up?
You can check them if you want. It’s constant current driver, so it should be 700ma within expected manufacturers tolerance as long as voltage is within rating range.
That’s what I needed to know. I’m not completely green. I’ve soldered circuit boards at work many a time. We made pump and sold scientific instruments. But his is all new to me. Thank you so so much for the help.
Is there much difference is penetration or quality/and quantity of light from the 2(seems like that’s what we are currently at)
1- cut out bar and use strips with 4 cobs
2 -8 cobs
Availability of the cons and strips is the only factor that I see.
I’ll do either. Price between the two
Isn’t much. It’s difficulty vs quality/quantity of light.
Based on the physical size of the light, probably not much different there either. A lot of people will show preference to using more of the strips to less cobs in an equal power situation. But those same people also prefer to get more technical with their spacing on strips. I usually lump them together, and doesn’t appear to make much difference in harvest results.
There would be a wider range of color temps available with cobs. But I don’t feel like we would stray too far from the combination you’d end up with strips and cobs.
Can you take a picture of the 4 glass panels?
That’s it. Four pieces of metal and the glass to cut out. Unless a better option comes up
I was just trying to see how big the lip was to the from the edges to the glass, say he was to remove the cross bars. Would he have to cut in a bit. As to not block any diodes on the strips? I am not sure on the eb strips how close to the end of the strip the diodes start
1 Like
I can cut the crossbar, but no the lip. It’s what the plate mounts too
1 Like
There would be room
2 Likes
Okay was just checking it out.
1 Like
Yep, was a good question. I’ve obviously overlooked stuff like that, like yesterday haha.
1 Like