Lights went off at 8 this am, and set to come back on at 8pm. So its reverse of what you suggested. I just noticed that. ID like on an hour or two earlier than 8pm. My schedule prior to my weekend fiasco, was lights on 6pm to 6am. So I should cut off 2 hrs early tomorrow am, then resume.
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Since the lights are currently off reset your timer now to come on at 4pm and off at 4 am if that is the schedule you want and you should be fine
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I didnât think you wanted to cut short the dark hours. Especially week 7 flower? While you here, what dictates the start of water only at end of flower? In still feeding jacks as of this past weekend. Thanks for your info.
A 1 time event should not hurt anything
Iâm in process of reading one of your journals 2000 pages to go
As far as when to start water only it depends on what you are looking to get out of them as far as couch lock/night time or daytime/energy strain
When the trichomes are about what % of amber you would like water for the last week before harvest
Some on here donât go water only at all and feed until harvest you need to try it both ways and see what works best for you
According to Jacks feed schedule you go water only for the last 4-7 days before harvest
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My current journal isPR first real grow and 2x4 grand opening. The other one is when I had no clue what I was doing, and was growing a bag seed with no equipment to start. That being said, this current grow, will be my first ever harvest, of hopefully some legit flower. So I really want to try and go about it as proper as I can. This past weekend really threw me off track. Everything was going smoothly. Hated to disturb them butâŚ
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@Hellraiser When looking at trichomes to determine when to water only. I like the couch lock feeling so if I wait until 50% amber for example and start watering only for two more weeks. Will the amber % increase or does water only maintain it at the percentage you checked when you started water only?
Was not a 1 time event, if you see what happened past weekend. 48 hrs dark, until last night at 8pm, when I brought them back home.
When you have a second could you please take a look at this picture? Is the lower yellowing leaf a common response after transplant? Is this anything to worry about/keep an eye on? Other than purple-ish stems, everything seems fine.
I am using Happy Frog with added perlite. I just transplanted them from their 1 gallon pots in to their permanent 5 gallon pots, 5 days ago. I gave them 1 watering with a ph 6.5 (little runoff) and recharge added at time of transplant. I also sprinkled recharge around the roots at time of transplant. They are under 315w cmhâs, Philips 3k, about 24" above canopy. RH 55-60%. Temps when lights are on 78-82°F.
I should add that I donât plan to start using nutrients until approx day 14 at 1/4 strength. Then possibly move up to 50% around day 21? I guess it will depend on how the plants look at that time. But thatâs a tentative game plan for now. I appreciate your thoughts on any of this.
Thank you for your help and time I appreciate it.
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Has that leaf been touching medium, and getting wet with water and or recharge?
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Amber trichs are going to increase whether you feed them or just water only. If you wait til 50% amber to do 2 weeks of water only then youâll be at 100% amber (or very close) at the end of that, will also have the most weight as well.
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That yellow leaf is a sign that the plant/soil was running low on nitrogen but the transplant will help with that since youâve provided it with more nutes with the fresh soil. Iâd pinch it off and not worry about it.
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So how much does the color of trichomes increase by over the two weeks, whether its clear or cloudy,
like do clear trichomes take 2 weeks to become cloudy or what is it? Im trying to learn this so I can become better at harvesting based on my preference
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Like many things in growing, there is no hard clear answer as the time frame will change depending on the strain. 8 week flowering indica plants will go thru the change much faster than a 12-14 week sativa that takes forever to see a majority of amber trichs. Hybrids (most strains are hybrids these days) will be somewhere in the middle.
Without having previously grown the strain, the best you can do is guesstimate when the trichs will be where you want. If I wanted 50% amber trichs, Iâd wait until there was some amber showing (like 10% or more) and then start the water only, but have to keep a eye on the trichs as it may hit 50% amber in 10 days, 2 weeks, or even 3 weeks.
With a strain I know very well, like my Cherry Ice Cream, I like it at 10 weeks where theyâll have around 20-25% amber trichs, if I wanted full couch lock on that, Iâd let them go another 2 weeks which will make it all amber (and a very sleepy narcotic high).
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Thats a new one, I didnt know that.
Thanks a lot for your reply
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Thank you for the help. I appreciate it. I was hoping it was something along those lines. Have a good night.
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There is a chance that it could have touched the soil which probably did not benefit the leaf. Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it
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Great post. Being this will be my first harvest of flower that I really want to properly dry and cure, is there a general guide youâve posted on here, from chop to your friends enjoyment? I have full control over temp and rh to dry. Do not have any of the gadgets pertaining to rh or any special curing jars or containers. Just mason jars and food grade buckets. Seen bill ward use food grade buckets, to avoid having a ton of jars. If you think I should get any of the rh packs or anything like that, lemme know. Couple weeks out im thinking. Tbd. Thanks for any guidance.
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Yep they keep gaining weight the longer they go. THC is peaked when all trichs are cloudy and as the trichs turn to amber some THC is degraded while the the buds continue to swell and pack on weight.
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The most important thing while drying is not to over dry, once the buds get too dry (under 56RH or so) some terps will evaporate off and there is no getting that back.
Slow dry is best dry, near 60F and 60RH will give a nice slow dry and preserve terps.
The problem most new growers run into is: when are the buds dry enough to trim (if dry trimming) and close up in containers to sweat out internal bud moisture. This will require checking on the buds daily (after a few days anyway) and checking the moisture content, I just feel some buds and can tell when they are ready but that takes a good amount of experience. Some are using moisture meters to help determine this (when reading gets near 11, dry trim and close up in a container to start the sweat/slow dry process). Though I would probably start the process at 11.5 to be sure they arenât too dry. I like to dry trim and close up the containers when buds are about 68RH and slowly bring that down over a week or 2 by opening the containers for a bit every day.
See the grove bag thread for more information on the moisture meter process
Yes having to burp and monitor RH in a bunch of jars sucks hard. I use CVaults for that part but food grade buckets with covers would work just as well. I prefer to keep separate plants in separate containers (unless they are clones then it doesnât matter).
Once in the bucket or other container, you want a RH meter to monitor the humidity, close it up and see what the RH settles down to, then open daily for a bit to release some moisture, then close up, let the buds sweat out more moisture and repeat until buds are in the 58-62RH range, though I prefer closer to 58RH for very sticky strains like my Cherry Ice Cream. At that point you can put into grove bags or mason jars for storage. Nice thing about grove bags is they donât need to be burped, buds in mason jars should have a quick burp for a couple weeks at least (quick burp so you donât dry them too much more). Or can leave in the bucket for the burp stage (couple weeks) then seal up in mason jars if going that way.
I donât use RH packs for drying, curing, or storage, donât need them in air-tight containers as the humiidity level will stay the same as long as they are not opened. I do use boveda rh packs for the jars I leave out for smoking as they are opened many times a day by my family, friends and myself and they would dry out quick.
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Iâm actually drying some now and wanted to know how you determine that theyâre at the correct RH without a moisture meter. Just by using the standard thermometer/RH gauge? Iâve been drying until the branches snap but donât wanna over dry. Also this is my first tent dry and theyâve been in a week. Still pretty wet and no snap to even small stems. I did the squeeze check and they feel like a damp sponge still. Any suggestions or just let them continue as is? Did minimal wet trim fyi, so lots of sugar leaves left, removed all the fan leaves prior to hanging.
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