High temperatures and pushing the limits on your nutrients is what I’m seeing combined to make your issues…
Room temps are a lil high if you don’t have a chiller , than you need to lower room temps to get water temps down and then you will be fine at 650 to 800 ppm …
If you were running a bigger bucket or a tote , you would have more water and it would stay cooler…
I’m sure that buckets barely holding 2+ gallons with all of those roots…
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Yeah I had a tomato the root took up the whole bucket! It was drain ing the bucket of nutes and water every day! But I was picking tomatoes all winter! Had to fill with a new batch every day. Pain in tha ass!
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Can you summarize the grow for me?
- Light
- Nutrient line and current feeding regimen/plan
My first inclination given the overall leaf quality (which I think is good) on the plant is that its a deficiency and NOT nutrient burn.
But reading through the thread it was a little difficult for me to gather all the facts, so… any chance someone wants to do some legwork for me so I can remain lazy today?
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Hey @Bogleg thanks for joining my thread. Here’s what you’re asking for - I appreciate any input.
Mars Hydro TS2000W upgraded almost 3 weeks ago. 5 gallon DWC single bucket.
3 airstones 950 gph air pump. Humboldt’s Secret nutes switched from previous nutes. Running about 680ppm been adding Cal mag 1ml per half gallon water. I also add silica @ 1ml per quart.
Lately the pH will drop, so the slightly high 7.4 pH from the tap brings it back in range daily. I haven’t run into that in last grow - I had to pH down everytime I added water. ppm drop last I looked about 80ppm down per 2-3 quarts of water also started adding extra nutes mid week. Additional flower power recently added after entering flowering several times maybe 2x a week.
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Okay, so from what I read above it sounds like the following is true?
- PH is dropping regularly and you are adding tap water, which is bringing the PH back in range
- PPMs are dropping around 80ppm
For #2 above, is that 80ppm drop a measurement you are taking before or after you add more water to the bucket?
For me, crashing PH is a totally normal phenomenon in damn near every single hydro grow - regardless of size of reservoir or hydro method (ebb and flow, DWC). It always seems to happen around weeks 5-6 of flower to me.
In any case, how long ago did you flush now?
Re: possible light burn - it looks like the affected leaves are all over - not dead center under the light, and sometimes lower and on the outside of the light’s footprint where PPF would be lower. As a result I’m of the opinion that’s not a primary issue here, if one at all.
When you say you are putting in 1ml of calmag per half gallon - what kind of calmag are we talking about?
I am not really good at diagnosing leaf problems. My solution is usually to flush and reset with lower PPMs. Heh.
Now, all that being said, I wonder if there isn’t a zinc deficiency. Is anyone else around here using the Humboldt nutes?
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Haha i called myself doing that. Didnt even realize he was hydro til 60 posts in! 
gotta start dropping support tickets first
Should have checked this. Brb
@Majiktoker @bonnie1 @Budbrother (a few of them) and forgot the last name…
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Thanks for confirming pH swings in hydro. Yes same here last time after 5-6 weeks of flower. Question about ppm water is 150 without nutes going in. I’ve only just hit 700 ppm should I be feeding more??
Hey buddy.
if its 150 ppms before you start and your only at 700ppms, something doesn’t seem right… that’s only 550ppms… I would think it would be double that, mine are at 670 ppms and happy in veg…
also u might want to get an RO, - I don’t have one but I have really good rain water but its never over 20ppms, you cant be sure whats in your rainwater it may have compounds in ther that are effing with your ph, or lockout… but my guess is if you increase your nutes it should help. and I was always bouncing around ph now everything is a bit heavier in nutes seedlings and all its better, your ppms are not sapose to go down, if they stay the same its perfect.
but I don’t use those nutes, and im new to hydro and dwc, but…
@bogleg, @peachfuzz… @TDubWilly, there was someone on here that picked the number to give the plants straight off the bat ill try and remember who it was…
@Myfriendis410 picked the perfect remedy nutrients in a plant this week in a day it looked %100 better… I was like, wo… that’s who it was… 
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I don’t think its really good to just keep adding bits and pieces either, even though u may get there u cant replicate it, im pretty sure generally you should dump all nutes and start with new fresh nutes… especially if yours is so small… 
, volume wise… not yield wise…
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I flushed 5 days ago…
right im sorry bud… 700 ppms in flushing…? yeah sorry bud I read it wron ignore me…
I’m not sure I’m being clear: I redid the bucket but nutes are just topping 700ppm after redoing the bucket. perhaps I’m starving them, I’m thinking maybe too low ppm for growth? A defecincy instead of burned I’m leaning towards… So I’ve fed it some more main nutes and extra Cal mag added 10ml this watering just of Cal mag.
that’s what im saying, I don’t think its enough, id ask the people above…
try and be ultra specific of what you’ve done and are thinking of doing…
ok another thing, you see how peachfuzz and my friends 410 are saying around 800 it doesn incude the 150ppms before you start… but I don’t know if I can get the whole burn thing
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I don’t know man, I wish I hadn’t written anything… I don’t get how your getting burns with low ppms,
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That’s why I’m thinking deficiency, this seems it can’t be due too high PPM’s
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Sorry @PurpNGold74 - I use Fox Farm Trio nutes… seems to work well, haven’t had nute burn for long time now. Happy growing 
