Strain = Mimosa X Orange Punch Breeder = Barney’s via N.A.S.C.
Feminized Seeds
Source water = RO System. PH 8.5, EC 0.0
Solution = PH 5.8 and EC 1.3
Grow method = Coco - Mother Earth 70/30 mix
Nutrient List in order of mixing.
Armor Si (Silica) then wait an hour
Sensi Cal-Mag Xtra
SensiGrow pH Perfect for Coco A & B
Diamond Nectar (Humic Acid)
Raw Yucca
GH RapidStart
Lighting = IONFRAME EVO6 LED
Temps = 77F - 70F
RH = Depends on temp and leaf temp offset to keep VPD with range.
Humidifier = AC Infinity T7
Ventilation system = 6" Pro kit from AC Infinity vented outside using window duct kit.
Co2 = NO
45 days into my 1st grow.
I’ll be over $3000 once I order a dehumidifier. I bought quality equipment and supplies for this grow and beyond. Buy once, cry once. It will pay for itself very quickly.
I searched and found this… While there are a variety of potential causes, the most likely culprit is a nutrient deficiency . When a cannabis plant doesn’t get enough of the essential macronutrients, it can cause the leaves to turn a light green. There are some very experienced growers here on this forum. Others will respond soon and give you some solid advice. Good luck and happy growing
Thanks for the reply. I’m thinking Nitrogen deficiency. Maybe because it’s getting more light and photosynthesis is using more nitrogen, but I’m a newbie so I don’t know.
I do run lights on for a total of 20 hours per cycle, but the DLI isn’t too high. I keep the light levels a lot lower than what manual recommends. I usually run it at 50 or 60% at 18" - 22" when manual says should be 80%. But I don’t think there’s no way my plants could handle 80%.
I fed at EC 1.8 2 days ago and got some Recharge and fed again tonight. Tonight’s EC was pretty high at 2.4, but I gave it to them anyway.
When do you think it will be safe to flip? Should I wait until the tops get noticeably darker. I have a full canopy and need to flip soon.
I tried turning lights up again to 60% for the past 3 days and the tips started getting light burn.
I can’t seem to go above 50% at 18" with these EVO6 lights. The manufacturer suggests 80% at this stage using dynamic placing at 18".
Here’s what my settings are at now.
Temperature = Stays pretty consistent 75-77F lights on. 69-71F lights off.
Filtration = Runs at 0 and kicks on to level 3 every 2 minutes to keep humidity in check for vpd level.
Humidity = Target set at 55%. Filtration fan kicks on level 3 when humidity hits 61%. Humidifier rarely comes on at this stage in the grow.
Humidifier comes on when the temp reaches 78F and the fan kicks on level 3 until it drops to 77F. The fan forces the humidity to drop below 55% and at that point the humidifier kicks on to level 5 to keep up with the fan and help drop the temp. This don’t happen much depending on the light level.
I have one 6" oscillating clip fan just above canopy on 60% and another at a height of where stem meets soil on level 2. I have another one that I’m not using yet.
The bottom vents in tent are open for passive air inflow.
I haven’t been here long but I’ve noticed you grow in coco so I wanted to ask this question about feeding to see if it seems right.
I feed everytime I water which is every 2 or 3 days. When I do I always add a full dose of Cal-Mag Xtra, 8ml per gallon. Then I’ll only add 1/4 - 1/2 dose of base nutrients (AN Sensi pH Perfect). The EC usually comes out between 1.1-1.6.
I use RO Water with an EC of 0.0 and usually start with 4 gallons of water. The EC of the solution after I add the Cal-Mag alone is 0.7. After Part A 1.0 & after Part B 1.1 @ 1/4 strength.
So a 4 gallon solution mix would look like this.
32ml Cal-Mag Xtra (2ml per liter)
16ml Part A (1/4 strength @ 4ml per liter)
16ml Part B (1/4 strength @ 4ml per liter)
EC = 1.1
My questions are, should I be feeding Cal-Mag with every feeding at full dose like that and does my feeding recipe seem pretty normal?
3 days is pushing it before feeding again in coco Grow Bro. Personally I feed daily…occasionally I’ll skip a day but coco should never get dry. For the feed strength I would bump the base nutrients up so that your final mix plus calcium and mag are around an EC of 1.8-2.0. I would also check the part A and B to see if calcium and magnesium are included parts. If so delete if not continue to add at 4-6 ml per gallon.
I’ve been pretty much feeding them every other day now. I had an overwatering incident that briefly stunted 2/4 of my plants when I watrred everyday and decided I didn’t like the aeration of my medium. They are starting to dry out faster now that I put an air intake on top of a winix air purifier set on the higest setting to get plenty of circulation coming in along with 3 S6 oscillating fans.
Also after pushing the EC to 2.4 as I mentioned last week, I was getting a runoff of 2.6, so I fed at 2.0 and 1.6 to get it down to 1.8 as of now.
I had to lower ASAP because I’m almost sure I was getting nutrient burn with some leave tips turning brown.
How bad will that affect my flowering as I’m on my 5th day?
Cal-Mag Xtra
3.2% Calcium
1.1 Magnesium
AN Sensi Part A Bloom for Coco
3% Calcium
0.9% Magnesium
That’s interesting. I’ve been adding a full dose of Cal-Mag to my solution every feeding with low doses of base nutrients and I’m pretty sure I even had a calmag deficiency at one time so I increased the dosade by 10% and it went away.
A person who uses the same nutrients as me told me to always incude a full dose of calmag. But he doesn’t measure EC either. I don’t know how his plants turn out so good. I’m more of a technical person.
But I think it’s something worth contacting AN about after looking at the ingredients. It could be why my plant is resisting the amount of light it should be getting.
Thanks as always for any input, I like to ask a lot of questions and learn.
Over dosing calmag can lock out other nutrient absorption. I would not add the calmag but use 1/2 teaspoon of Epsom salt for the magnesium. That leaf doesn’t resemble a calcium or magnesium deficiency…more like PH and some very minor phosphorus deficiency
I use the pH perfect and RO water. I also double check the pH just to be safe after mixing with a blue lab pen and it’s always 5.9. The runoff pH is always good too. Cal-Mag is always the first to be mixed in the solution unless I use Silica, then I’ll add that 1st and wait an hour.
I was only told that was a calmag deficiency by a few people on Reddit and thought because I added RO water to dillute my solution twice right beforehand without adding Cal-Mag, that they were correct. It was on a few bottom leaves but that was the worse one.
Looks healthy to me Growmie, new growth will start a lighter green. The addition of calcium is needed using RO but your base contains that. What’s your tap water source TDS and PH
PH of tap is 8.5 EC is 0.3, might of been 0.4 last time I measured it.
I do have have some brown tips on two of the plants. That’s why I wanted to lower the EC quickly and fed with a lot of runoff.
I think had to veg a week longer than I wanted to and even though I defoliated a lot last week, it grew back thick. Now I can’t wait until week 3 of flower so I can thin it out again.
In the meantime I have the 3 oscillating fans going, my exhaust fan sucking air out out on level 7, good airflow coming in, and humidity under 50% to try to prevent mildew on leaves. I also just received my Crop Defender 3 order today so the next lights out cycle I’m going hit them with that.
For the 1st 40 days my RO system was putting out pH 5.8 water, then it changed to the same as my tap.
I contacted the company and they said RO systems don’t change the sources pH and that they don’t know how for the 1st 40 days my RO water was putting 5.8 pH water. They sent me multiple links to articles and studies about how RO and pH works.
Ever since the pH is the same as my tap, but after mixing the pH Perfect Nutes it’s at 5.9 everytime. The EC of the RO is still 0.0.
So apparently it’s some miracle according to them that I got 5.8 for 40 days, but I’m pretty sure I just seen some say they get 5.8 from theirs.
