Yellow leaves NOT caused by high pH?

So I been dealing with a stunted WW auto in straight FFOF for the last three weeks, planted 12-24 periscoped 3ish days later. It’s clearly behind schedule and one of things I been looking at was pH. I’ve tested it twice (One of which was 10minutes ago) and it came back ~6.3 both times and I’m fairly certain the meter is calibrated correctly since it returns values within .1ish when placed in a test solution (premixed bought from amazon). I made a hole about an inch deep in two places and took a sample from there. Based on the grow guide from this site, yellow leaf tips are a sign of high pH.

So my attention turned to the soil after being suggested FFOF is to hot for auto. Now I have some new mediums coming for my next attempt but I’d like to keep this one going, at least to keep learning from it if nothing else. Are yellow leaves also a sign the soil is to hot? Or do I need to relook at pH issues? Thanks, pics below

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It will lose the first leaves at any time now. Plant looks okay; maybe a bit of clawing and dark (high N values).

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Hi @TripleB I’m trying to get your timeline straight, did you start your seeds directly into FF OF?
I’m currently growing with a 50/50 mix of FF HF and OF, but didn’t introduce the seedling (WW auto ) to the mix until after week 2.

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@DoomSack , first I soaked it in water for 2 days until it split, then placed it in a damp paper towel for another 2 days or so until the tap root was about a half inch. Then I planted it about a half in deep in FFOF.

What did you have yours in for the first two weeks?

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Yeah FFOF Is to hot for seedling. I normally buffer with coco or a seeding soil. She should grow out of it and take right off. Make sure to not over water. And keep water off her leaves.

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Soak the seeds 24hrs in a dark box. Transferred them to paper towel for 1-2 days back into darkness. Once the root tails emerged, I planted them into 3" small planter cups with seed starting soil. Put some small ziplock baggies (moisture domes) over them and put them into my tent and waiting about 2-5 days for them to emerge. After 2 weeks of growth I gently transplanted them to final 5gal containers. In the 5 gallon container I put FF OF mixed with perlite at the bottom and FF HF with perlite on the top.

Also watered with a mister bottle to help with the over watering issues that can happen early on if your hand watering with a water can.

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i cant recall where i read it but OF seemed to be best used during flower and HF was good for the veg stage hence the 50/50 mix. In theory the roots would be far from the hot stuff in OF until mature enough to reach it and by that time they would be less likely to fry the roots.

@TripleB Anyways, its all apart of understanding how they work and learning. I’ve grow at this point 100’s of autos. Everyone one is unique at the end, but all have similar starts. They dont need any nutritional additives for the first couple of weeks. they feed off the first set of round leaves that emerge once they break the surface of the soil.

Ffof can be a bit hot for seedlings. It’s best to start them in seedling specific soil, then transfer into it.

Looks like she’s starting to flower already.

The bottom leaf is probably discolored from coming into contact with the soil. Not a big deal. It’ll fall off eventually.

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How do your autos take the transplant? Any shock and do you use a root hormone when transplanting? Trying to get a game plan for the next round of autos. And my big fix is the start. Needing to find a good starter soil. Been using FFOF, the heavy nutrients seems to stunt them and with only a 3-4 weeks worth of veg. That can be detrimental to the end result

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I used to transplant Auto’s 2-3 times in a single grow in the beginning with minimum stunting. There’s no rush so when you do a transplant, have everything ready to go so there’s minimum error. Recovery time was less than a week (1-3 days).

Currently I just do 1 transplant. I didn’t find any real significant benefit with root stims on recovery. I just used local hardware store seedling starter mix. Nothing with high levels of fertilizers should do the trick because again, the seedlings have all the nutrients they need to start.

My current autos I didn’t add any nutrients, just the nutes in the FF soil. In the past I was using FF trio nutes. Yeah autos are a fixed lifespan so any delays cuts deep into growth and development. If you have to feed, start super light. I’m talking 1/4 of what the recommendation on the package.

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It’s been a mix bag for me. 1st grow transplant was successful and topped with no real delay. 2nd grow not so much. Stunted in the starter cup or in the transplant but when it finally came out of her coma. She went straight into flower. Ended with a one nug plant. On my 3rd now and started in their final home. Slow growth from the beginning, some burning FFOF. Slowed her down and went into flower around week 3. She isn’t big. So I’m going to try leaving a solo cup hole in the FFOF and fill it with something with alot less nutrients.

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Growing is definitely a learning process of trial and error and honestly just getting close to these plants and learning what they do. Each strain can have different results so you have to find strains the work with what you want to do. Cutting some strains can have devastating results, others can result in massive growth and progression. you have to kind of decode which ones work best.

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@DoomSack when you say cutting, are you referring to pruning the stems to create more branches? Is WW Auto a strain you prune?

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I have pruned, topped, and fim’d autos in general. WW auto seemed to respond positively but you have to do most of that early in the veg stage. As well as cloned using the cuttings from pruning.

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@Axemanjake23 you probably can’t answer this, but what would be a reasonable expectation for how much the plant could “take off?” If it produces anything at this point I’d be ecstatic :laughing:

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However with that said, I don’t recommend that type cutting if the plant is already struggling though. They need to be strong and able to recover.

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How old is shr now? I dont think that is flower but new growth very light green. My guess is you are around 3 weeks old. If so that is not horrible and could look at maybe 3 zips.

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That is an auto that is around 3ish weeks old. I stunted her with hot soil as well. Now she is around 2 week into flower and good size. The plant to the right of the tent

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Looks like the beginning of flowering to me.

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Shoot, I have been wrong before.

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