WW auto issue. Needing advice

Hello, my white Widow has a few of the bottom leaves turning yellowish.

Strain—White Widow auto

Soil—organic potting soil.

Potting—cloth pots

Water—Ph @ 6.4-6.0

PH of runoff—have not checked on this grow

What is strength of nutrient nutrients? None used

Indoor—8’wide x4’tall x4’deep insulated and foil reflecting liner.

Light system—4’T5, some LED grow lights and 4CFL’s

Temps; Day&Night~70-73

Humidity; Day—65Night—65

Ventilation system—no, grow room door open several times a day. 2 small fans

AC—yes, window unit,

Co2–None used.

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Normal for this to happen, your girl is getring ready for the final stretch. She looks about 4/5 weeks from harvest.


Haha didn’t notice it was in flower so I’ll delete all that but she does look hungry and very yellow considering. I’m just glad you made it this far without any pH issues.

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I agree with @Vexer she needs to be feed. The plant is starting to take the nutrients stored in the leaves. It will do this starting with the bottom leaves and that is why they yellow.


Plant is starved for nutes. Still have time to feed her the goodies she needs.
Go low and slow…she isn’t used to nutes…and…don’t want to shock her.

Learn to read your leaves. Read PH n PPM…twice a day.

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I’m leaning towards a ph issue… all of his tips are showing too much nutrients , but some of the leaves are showing deficiencies… = ph lockout
You need to find out what your runoff is for ph and ppm and then we can figure out what to do next… I would poor enough good ph’d water through until you get 25% of container size of water for run off , and only catch the last lil bit for testing… :wink:



@peachfuzz. I will do exactly that when I get home. Sounds like a good plan and I should have already done this test.


I’ll be here… :wink:


Ok here’s what I came up with…
First I calibrated my ph meter. It was off by .22, in other words a solution @ 4.01 showed up on my meter as 4.22. Anyway I have this feeling my leaf yellowing issues are related.
Ok anyway. Ph water going in at 6.40 and what is about the last dripping out of the cloth pot is 6.75. I tested the ppm @499 before using on the plant if that means anything.
So any thoughts? I appreciate them.

More nutrients… 800 ppm at least for next 2 weeks… :wink:


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She looks hungry. Unless you’re running truly organic, keep an eye on your pH; aim for between 6.3-6.8. Probably a bit of lockout, which is why your plant can’t access your soil’s nutes.

Otherwise, she’s looking good!

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Your pH is at the high end the range, but
acceptable. Next time you water, try putting in h20 that’s maybe 6.2, to bring
your runoff down just a bit. Some nutes
wouldn’t hurt, either.:grinning:

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I’m getting the hang of mixing the ph and H2O now so I’ll aim for 6.2. Challenge accepted. :face_with_monocle:
Now for a question… is the liquid fertilizer in the picture anything close to what I need?

Do you have a pic of the back of the bottle?

Dang it, I’ll have to post it tomorrow morning.

Hang on, look what I found on the web.



Here are a couple that look just like yours




First off, some interesting, basic facts…

Your marijuana plants need 18 essential elements. They get carbon, hydrogen,
and oxygen from atmosphere and water. They get the 15 other elements via their
roots. These elements are sometimes grouped as major, secondary, and trace elements.
The groupings are determined by how much of each element is needed–some are needed
a lot more than others, but all are necessary.

The major elements are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The so-called secondary
elements are magnesium, calcium, silicon, and sulfur. Some people group these seven
elements as “macronutrients” because they’re required in larger weight amounts than
the remaining essential elements your plants need. Those are called micronutrients,
and they’re very important even though your plants don’t need as much of them. We’re
talking about iron, zinc, copper, molybdenum, boron, manganese, cobalt, and chlorine.

Until recently, silicon wasn’t even included in the essential element list, but modern
research on marijuana plants indicates your plants use silicon to build strong cell walls,
resist pests and diseases, and to create THC glands.

Nutrients problems most likely to reduce growth rate, THC percentages, and harvest
weight often involve nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and calcium. But problems with
deficiency or excess of any of the 18 essential elements is likely to cause serious
trouble for your marijuana plants.

How do you know your marijuana plants have nutrient deficiency or excess? Look at your leaves.
If they’re not lime green, upright, and looking like the perfect marijuana leaf photo
accompanying this article, your leaves are trying to tell you something.

But here’s a twist…it may not be your organic fertilizers, soil, or hydroponics nutrients
that are actually causing the problem. Signs of nutrient element shortages or excess may
merely be a symptom of the real cause of the problem. For example, low temperatures
interfere with nutrient uptake. So you can’t solve a temperature-related nutrient
deficiency problem by increasing your nutrients dosing…you solve the temperature
problem instead, so your marijuana plants can take in what they need.

The Right Amount of Nitrogen
Makes Your Marijuana Healthy and Green

Nitrogen makes up 78% of the dry volume of our atmosphere and plants need to
capture it if they want to grow at all.

No doubt you already know nitrogen is the big N in the N-P-K on your hydroponics
nutrients bottles, and it’s a big, important ingredient for your marijuana growing success.

Unless your plants are in the final weeks of flowering phase, yellow leaves
(especially lower leaves) are signs of trouble, and the troubles are most often
a nitrogen deficiency. It starts with the bottom leaves and works its way up until only the newest growth is green.

On the other hand, if your marijuana plants are overdosing on nitrogen,
the leaves will be extremely dark green.

Either way, nitrogen problems mean big trouble for your marijuana plants because nitrogen is
absolutely necessary for plant survival because nitrogen is a primary elemental support for
protein synthesis, growth, leaf development, metabolism, and root health.

If you oversupply nitrogen, you get marijuana plants that are too tall, thin, and gangly.
It’s harder to get successful flowering from plants that have been overfed nitrogen.

If you see that the very tips of your leaves are yellow, that’s an almost sure sign of nitrogen
deficiency, which occurs most often during a fast-moving grow phase or when you’ve switched
to an improperly-configured bloom fertilizer during flowering. Many brands of hydroponics
nutrients do not contain the right ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, or they
contain the elements in forms that are not easily available to your marijuana plants.

These potential nutrients problems are especially harmful in flowering phase, when your plants
only have 12 hours to run their photosynthesis metabolism.

Nitrogen deficiencies first show up as leaf tip yellowing, especially on lower leaves.
Then it spreads to affect entire leaves, and moves up the plant. When you do research
on marijuana strains before you buy seeds or clones, take note of the strains that are
said to be heavy feeding. Those will likely want higher parts per million of nutrients,
and they are hogs for eating nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. In bloom phase, your
marijuana plants want less nitrogen, and more potassium and phosphorus.

The only time you tolerate signs of nitrogen deficiency is when you’re more than halfway
through flowering phase. During those closing weeks, your marijuana plants are focusing on
floral production so they sucks stored nitrogen out of leaves rather than doing the work of

That’s why you don’t need to add extra nitrogen (beyond the amount found in a properly-configured
flowering base nutrients product) to flowering crops after they’ve passed the midway point of
flowering cycle: excess nitrogen during flowering negatively affects bud development, taste, and aroma.

Fixing Nutrients Problems to Save Your Marijuana Plants

In later articles in this series, you’ll see a more detailed program for analyzing and fixing
marijuana nutrients problems but it’s important to understand a couple of things right away.
One thing to know is that organic or “natural” fertilizers often fail to remediate a deficiency
fast enough because they aren’t immediately bioavailable to your marijuana plants.

If you’re absolutely sure your marijuana root zone pH, grow environment, water, and other factors
are what they should be, and your plants are still showing signs of nitrogen deficiency in soilless
hydroponics marijuana growing, it almost has to be that something’s wrong with your base nutrients.

What are your remedies? If you’re growing in soilless hydroponics using synthetic hydroponics
nutrients, you have it pretty easy.

First, make sure your pH meter is working perfectly (or use the new pH Perfect base nutrients
that automatically buffer and adjust pH to the ideal sweet spot). Flush your
plants (I prefer
Final Phase or Flora Kleen), dump your reservoir, fill with reverse osmosis
water, and feed with
quality hydroponics base nutrients. When I say “quality hydroponics
nutrients,” I mean a reliable
brand of hydroponics base nutrients other than the brand you were using when
the nutrients deficiency

You can also experiment with slight up and down adjustments of nutrients
strength (ppm) or nutrients
water pH and see if that corrects the problems. For example, many of us
follow the dosage instructions
on nutrients bottles and end up with 500+ ppm during flowering. In some cases,
that’s too much, and what’s
really strange is that using too much nutrients can result in nutrient deficiencies.

So try changing your dosage 50-100 ppm in either direction, and see if it makes a
Try adjusting you pH from 6.2 to 6.0. Different nutrients interact with root zone
material and
water differently, so that you might get absorption of 12 elements, but the pH is
wrong for three
other ones. Even small adjustments in pH (unless you’re using pH Perfect base
nutrients in which
case it doesn’t matter), can affect individual element’s absorption.

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Great info!

This plant is coming up on being 60 days old. It started flowering about 30 days ago.
So is it yellowing down low because it’s in its final days? If so is it a good time to set a date to harvest? I don’t have a jewelry loop but I do have a super magnify lens. I’ll get some super close up shots and post them.

Did you have a chance to look at the nutrient list I found?
Don’t these autoflower plants start to turn in the late stages? I’m over 60 days now with this one.