This is my first autoflower. It is Northern Lights. The trichromes seem mostly cloudy maybe a little amber on the leaves but she is dropping leaves and has alot more yellowing than I’m used to seeing. What do you all think? Pics are the best I can get with my shaky hands and phone.
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I’m saying maybe a couple weeks
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Thanks for the reply. It sprouted on Halloween so it’s entering week 13. Should I be concerned by that much leaf loss?
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That is pretty severe looking but as long as the sugar leaves on the buds is not dying, it should hold out for a couple more weeks. Those white pistils need to darken and receed.
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Still some white pistols . They should plump up more, too.
@Dcrich , from that pic , you don’t look nowhere near finished. I don’t even check trichomes till most of the pistols are brown. I don’t grow Autos so let’s bring in some help. @Covertgrower , @PurpNGold74 , @CoyoteCody. In late flower leaves are stored energy, using them up is a good thing
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how many weeks has it been flowering? i’d agree you have a few weeks to go based on the amount of white pistils.
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The first signs of flower started showing about 7 weeks ago.
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Yea definitely have more time to go.
The question about those leaves is a good one. Some look pretty burnt up. Others extremely yellow. Support ticket is a solid bet.
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-What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed (photo or auto)
-Age of plant
-Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
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If growing Hydro some additional questions:
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are they ILGM? if so, their page says 56 day flowering period and i usually add a week or two. so two to three weeks depending on your trichrom preference
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What strain ILGM Northen Lights Auto
-Age of plant 91 days
-Method: Organic soil taken from raised beds recently amended after harvest
-Vessels: 5 gal fabric pots
-PH and TDS . Tap water ph to 6.5 runoff tds was at 1900 ppm runoff is really dark brown
-PPM/TDS or EC top dressing only
-Method used to measure PH and TDS. PH with meter drops and strips switch depending what I feel like. Tds with ppm meter
-Indoor grow 27"x27"
-Light system led full spectrum cheap light don’t remember the brand 281b diodes
-Actual wattage is 112
-Current Light Schedule 18/6
-Temps; Day, Night 68f to 72f
-Humidity; Day, Night 40rh to 48rh
-Ventilation system; Yes constant air removal with 5 inch ducted fan on low. Also oscillating clip on fan
-AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier, No humidity from fan over water
-Co2; No
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I was running a sonofarm 1000 in this but was running tight on height so I switched out to a older cheap Light I had that could gain me about 3 inches higher but the controller isn’t as nice as the sonofarm and it resets intensity daily. I think I have burnt the top of the plant before I realized this was the case. Top leaves aren’t just yellowing they are crispy. I really just tried to leave this first auto alone to do its thing just for a baseline.
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The tops looks to be suffering N toxicity from the view above. Lets see a close up of a few of those leaves.
Are u sure thats a 5 gall pot? Looks kinda tiny.
Also how often are u watering? And what are u mixing into how much water?
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I know what you mean on those pots. When I opened the package I was pretty certain they were smaller than advertised, but I filled with soil from a 5gal bucket and they take it all and a little more. Here a closer shot of the leaves. Thanks for your insight, damage may be done but hopefully I learn something.
On the water. It’s been straight PhD water. I water by Weight and feel of the lower portion a the fabric. If it’s getting light but my hand gets wet lifting from the bottom I will wait a day.
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@PurpNGold74 , nice catch, I missed the nutrient burn , that can set you back. Nitrogen ( excessive ) will stop or slow the oxidation of trichomes. Which means a longer flowering time.
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Lol these ole potgrowing eyes dont miss a beat haha.
But now I can see closer? It doesnt look as clean cut as a N toxicity. It seems as tho she is absolutely starving for PK.
If you are certain you are at 6.5 and 1900 ppms? Then Im LOST. Id defo recheck those numbers.
Possibly flush to reset and feed a FULL STRENGTH bloom based solution
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Thats a real possibility.
Soil contents as well. Ppms is a general reading and not at all indicative of WHATS its made of. I see you said it was previously composted soil, reamended.
What was used to build the soil?
What amendments did you reamend with?
Have u added any nutrient solution?
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