Will a humidifier help with this problem



I’m putting my humidifier back into my tent as I haven’t had it in there all grow I’m hoping that it may help my crispy leaves what do you guys think

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I wouldn’t expect that humidity is the problem. It looks like nute burn and a support ticket will help us help you to get to the root cause.

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A support ticket will help us help you. Can you please fill out a support ticket? Please include what type of water you are using.

COPY/PASTE the below list into your forum post.

Answer these simple questions the best you can.

If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so; Or post

NA (non-applicable)

• What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed

• Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF

Soil brand and type

• Vessels: Pots, Grow beds, Buckets, Troths

• PH of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)

• PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable

• Indoor or Outdoor

• Light system

• Temps; Day, Night

• Humidity; Day, Night

• Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size

• AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,

• Co2; Yes, No

If growing Hydro some additional questions:

-DWC? RDWC? Autopots? Ebb and Flow? Other?
-Distance of liquid below net pot (DWC)
-Temperature of reservoir
-TDS of nutrient solution
-Amount of air to solution

Always try to upload a clear picture of any issues you may have to allow the community to assist you. Pictures taken under natural or white lighting are by far the best.

Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer should be included. Feel free to elaborate, but short and to the point questions and facts will help us help you in a more efficient manner.

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Humidity is not your issue. Fill out the support ticket Midwest guy posted and we’ll get some folks to help you out.

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Yes please don’t add humidity to your flowers​:-1::cry:!!! Its hard to say what problem is without ticket and more pics but DEFINITELY NOT HUMIDITY!!!

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Wats these tickets

@Tezza2 ILGM support tick @MidwestGuy copy paste fill out. Thanks!!

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@smalls has a really good point. Adding humidity during flowering can cause mold, mildew, and bud rot. You would be creating more problems by adding humidity. Don’t know where your humidity is, but it should be ~40% at most at this point.

It is most likely that you have pH or PPM problems.

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(non-applicable)

• What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed sticky seeds
Moby dick
• Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
Coco coir
Soil brand and type Coco coir

• Vessels: Pots, Grow beds, Buckets, Troths fabric pots

• PH of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)
6.3
• PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable

• Indoor or Outdoor indoor

• Light system Samsung led 2000watts

• Temps; Day, Night 25

• Humidity; Day, Night 49

• Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size 4inch but upgrading to 6inch

• AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
Humidifier
• Co2; Yes, No
Yes co2
If growing Hydro some additional questions:

-DWC? RDWC? Autopots? Ebb and Flow? Other?
-Distance of liquid below net pot (DWC)
-Temperature of reservoir
-TDS of nutrient solution
-Amount of air to solution

Always try to upload a clear picture of any issues you may have to allow the community to assist you. Pictures taken under natural or white lighting are by far the best.

Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer should be included. Feel free to elaborate, but short and to the point questions and facts will help us help you in a more efficient manner.

What you have here is nitrogen burn. Expected if you.dont lower late flower. Most leach at this point. Which looks similar z except the leafs stay intact

Honestly if I where you. I’d give only di/ro water for 2-3 weeks then chopped

I know many will say that you arent that close. But it’s your only chance to save any tbh. Personally I’d start the next. To replace the one you’re forcing to finish. Also switch to a 10/14 schedule. Let her know winter is upon her

That all looks reasonable with the exception of not knowing your PPM, which I expect is the actual problem.

I would get a PPM meter and manage your nutes that way.

CO2 won’t do any good for your grow with the light that you have. CO2 requires higher temps, high nute levels, high light intensity, and a closed loop environment. Ambient CO2 is plenty for the average grower.

Since we don’t know the PPM, the best suggestion I have is to stop feeding her for a week or 2. The burned leaf tips are most likely due to a nitrogen excess. The burned leaves won’t recover. The ones that are the most burned (can’t collect light) should be removed.

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Thank U for Ur reply I have stopped feeding her I’m just using pH water and before I asked anyone about this problem I already cut back the nutrients from wat the manufacturer recommended coz they recommend 40 ml of both A&B I’m using canna nutrients and I’m using a marshydro tent 160 ×70×70

It’s a auto flower aswell

It’s a auto flower and it’s only not long started to flower and the flowers are still getting bigger

If possible. Use distilled or reverse osmosis water. And only. Ignore the pH . Just let her finish

Basically if you can. 0ppm a water till finish

I assume A&B means that you are feeding Jack’s?

I use the Fox Farm Trio and feed at half of the published schedule. Many nute manufacturers have very aggressive schedules that lead to nute burn. This is the case for Fox Farm nutes, but I don’t know about Jack’s. There are plenty of growers here that use Jack’s and can help.

Autoflowers can be more sensitive to nutes than photo plants, so you have to be careful.

Let’s get a coco grower in here to help you tweak the details. @Myfriendis410, @dbrn32, @PurpNGold74, or @AfgVet will know who they are. I can’t think of any at the moment.

5 Likes

Usually A and B described as this isn’t jacks. The op is as at the point where regardless they can start flush. Since it’s burned so much already. My biggest rec to op would be to water only till finish with some tribus dropped in. Since that will make remaining nutrients usable. And the flush more scaled. Building your rhizosphere negates these issues. With proper ventilation. Which this girl was suffocated. … just saying. Even a built up rhizo can’t fix you suffocating your girl. Which is 40% of what happened here.

You need to have a lung for your tent. Or this will happen every single time.

She never needs a humidifier this late in flower. She needs north of 200 cfm fresh air. With the lung room she’s getting that air from being around 40-50% rh

So if anything. You probably need a dehumidifier

I’m running two fans in my tent plus I have the vents open I have plenty of ventilation ,this is the nutrients I’m using


The temp in my tent in the day is around 27 degrees

@Tezza2 these good folks got you covered with this aspect of things…

Print out a vpd chart to help know a range you should be keeping it in. You could go even further and figure out leaf temp vs air temp and get serious with it but…I just use basic 3 degree differential chart.

That will let you know where your heat and humidity should be during whichever stage of growth your in. It will not only keep you from getting bud rot/mold but help your plants your plants grow efficiently

Your leaves tell me you burnt them with nutrients. Or you hit closer to 30 in the day.

Ok so now we know the nutrients. What are your runoff ppms? PH? Tickets do help. But this is already narrowed down.

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I don’t check ppm I do have a ppm meter I just don’t use it as most people I’ve seen that grow in Coco coir don’t do ppm

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