White rot on trunk of plant!


#1

Few weeks into flower, one of the plants developed what appears to be some sort of trunk rot. Started of as just white (almost a bruise) looking area. Now spreading around 360º and has developed into loss of bottom branches and ants attacking.


Is my plant going to die :(?
#2

Harvy

Allow the soil to dry between waterings, and be sure to water around the stem, not on it. Wipe as much of the fungus and soft tissue away as possibly. If the rot doesn’t disappear in a few weeks, treat it with a fungicid.
Hope this helps

Will


#3

Hi Will,
Thanks for the reply! After careful inspection around the whole trunk (180 from photo) I’m seeing what appears to be
an infection site possibly from when we lollipoped. Perhaps we cut too close? We sanitized all of the shears, but this may
be the cause. What ever caused it, the plant seams to be choking from the inside. Have lost 2 bottom stems so far.
Sprayed a milid solution of water and hydrogen peroxide solution last night. We shall keep her dry.


#4

Good deal. Ill keep in touch. Would like to know How she doses.

Will


#5

Hi Will, I have been washing the wound with a mix of water and h202. I believe the rot has entered the plant and is cutting off the flow of nutrients, she continues to decline. All of the fan leaves are yellow or brown, falling off from the bottom up. Just entered week 6 of flower, the good news is her flowers still look pretty good compared to the rest of the garden, hoping she can make it a few more weeks. All of my sources can’t figure out what caused this, that’s my big concern. Would love to avoid a repeat. Best guesses are from the lollipop session, perhaps cut too close to the trunk? We used sterilized pruners, tried to cut at 45º. Any thoughts would be very much appreciated.


#6

Streptomyces Griseoviridis – Beneficial Bacteria

That’s a mouthful, huh? This particular bacterium is available commercially and is used to prevent root rot, stem rot, wilt and various fungal diseases such as Fusarium, gray mold and Pythium. Mycostop, RootGuard and Microgrow are a few products available to the cannabis gardener.

But after you follow the link use my magic stuff (Nitrogen peroxide) Take a cup of water and put Say 3 or 4 tbls of nitrogen peroxide stir it up put in a bottle and spray the infected area then the hole plant. Do this every day. Here is that link. This should do the trick for ya

Will


#7

For sure will! Currently GH Bloom Micro is included in my nutrician feeding. Not sure if this is the same stuff as Microgrow.
Looked around on the web for Nitrogen peroxide powder, no luck so far. Where have you found it?
As I mentioned I have used Hydrogen peroxide solution with no results, I will order the Mycostop from your link and give that a try. Thank you very much for the insight!


#8

Harvey, I don’t know where you live, but you can get it ( Nitrogen peroxide ) at any pharmacy. I don’t know why it wouldn’t work.
You can try milk, milk works wonders and your plants will love it. Just add 4 tsp to gal water Then PH Your
solution and spray your plant real good. Then pour what’s left in the soil of the infected plants.

Will


#9

Nitrogen peroxide? Or hydrogen peroxide?

~MacG


#10

I think this is the third time I’ve done this…lol
I can’t believe I did it again.

Hydrogen

Thanks MacG


#11

Hydrogen, got it! Have tried that, I believe it’s just too late for her ;-/
Thanks for the info, I’ll give the milk a try next.


#12

I wouldn’t pull her just yet. Try the milk on her. Just to see how she does. Oh I see that you are going to
You should be keeping a journal for future reference.
Keep me posted if you d mind.

Will


#13

Well Harvy, how did it go?

Will


#14

Hi Will,
Had a few recommendations from other folks as well, tried most of them. In the end she continued to decline, will pull Monday and yield what I can. Still don’t know what caused the issue.


#15

Well I’m sorry about it that Harvey this is a learning experience for sure.
Just apply what you lol earn to your next grow.

Will


#16

Hi Will,
In the end I did get a decent yield from her. Her soil was still very moist compaired to all the others, so as I thought she was getting choked from the inside out. I cut the trunk up into 1" sections and found at the sight of what ever the infection was (still no clue) was pretty bad. Moving up or down from the sight the condition got better, so to say the roots and base were fine but progressively affected moving down and the rest of the trunk progressively affected moving up from the sight as time went on. Any thoughts would be appreciated and I’m going to have the Mycostop on hand for the next run. Here’s 2 pics. 1 at the base of the trunk and 1 at the infection sight.


#17

Root rot that spread up to the trunk because the soil was too wet.

~MacG


#18

Hi Mac,
Thank you for chiming in!
I believe the moist soil was due to her not being able to extract the feedings in the late stages of whatever disease/infection was going on. Prior to the discovery of the inital infection sight during the 2nd week of flower the soil was consistent wet/dry with all other smart pots in the garden. We continued to feed her even tho her decline was progresevly getting worse in the last few weeks of the cycle. As you can see at the base of the trunk the infection bearly spread down, it mostly worked its way up from the infection sight in my first post.


#19

Ah, yes, I see, you probably did cause damage and likely weakened it to where a pathogen could infect it. The 45º angle probably wasn’t necessary, maybe even slightly harmful. The 45º angle thing is for a cutting, a clone, like roses in a glass of water, to increase the surface area of the vascular system to the water.

Doing this to a “branch” exposes the vascular system to more air. This is why we try and pinch new growth and not do such drastic lopping off, we want to minimize vascular exposure to the air, so the “sap” can more easily plug things up, kind of like blood clotting on a wound… And so the plant should be able to naturally seal off wounds after pruning, though they don’t actually heal them. Instead, fresh tissue grows to cover the wounds, protecting them from decay and disease. If you remove a “branch” completely, you should leave the at least about a half inch, or maybe even much more depending on the thickness of the branch. I’d say a good rule of thumb is at least twice as long as the branch is thick, if not maybe 3-4 times longer than the thickness.

Kind of think “branch collar” on a tree. This is the swollen area where the “branch” emerges from the “trunk”. Well beyond this are keeps the pruning wound manageable, whereas a flush cut creates a larger wound that is more difficult for the plant to seal, and could allow an infection deep inside, as you have seen.

It is all a learning process and I’m glad you got at least a decent harvest off her.

Happy growing,

MacG


#20

i had the same problem with my plant and i just wanted to no what happen nd solve nun was working nd i pulled it not a lot of yield nd i wanted to see i can use the soil bc i need transplant more plants