When to change transition from grow to bloom


#1

My plants here are into week 3 and I am concerned even though they look great they don’t seen to be big enough (on my own belief) to change the transition to flower. Should I keep the light at 18 hours even if I pass the 4 week period?


#2

In general, this is the schedule, but nothing is ever written in stone as to exactly when, as discussed in the other post, but here is the general things to consider during different grow phases of your plant: http://www.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/the-best-marijuana-growing-schedules/


#3


yoshi hi!
can you give me a little help please?i have a few questions and i would appreciate it if you would take some time answering me
1st) how can i increase humidity in my grow tent?i m in vegging and humidity during the 18h lighting cycle is about 40/50% and goes up to 65% at night.
i do not have any money to buy dehumidifier or other expensive machine so i was wondering if there is another cheaper way to do that.
2nd)my plants are 7-9 days old (master kush) and they are about 10 cm tall with 3 sets of leaves going for 4.(i hope they are growing ok)
when is it a good time to start marijuana grow booster?
3d)i couldn t help noticing a conversation you had with one of ilgm members about the transition from grow fertilizer to bloom.i understood what you said about increasing the dosage of bloom fert while you reduce the grow fert but my question is when do you do that?right after you change to 12/12 earlier or later than that?
also,do i have to feed my plants every time i water them after i start nutrients?
i grow with a 400w mh lamp for growing and a 600w hps for flowering,got 2 fans installed and a portable air condition(info that might help)
thank you so much
Phillip


#4

I used a humidifier frow Walmart for kids or asthmatic people , I think it’s like $20 or so , it’s like a mister deal you use eucalyptus in for breathing . You can also hang moist towels in there to help put moisture in the air . The reason it’s goes up at night because your 400 light puts out heat when they on and you have to vent out the hot stale air and bring fresh cool air during veg . 40-50% is not bad but you at least want it more less around 60-70% with the lights on during veg . Now for flower it needs to 45% or less to help bloom . Now the best time to start nutrients will be around week 4 or at least four to five alternating nodes if that make sense , mainly about the fourth set of leaves or the fifth , and only do a quarter strength of whatever nutrient line you using , less is better always . You can increase your dosage 2.5 ml per feeding , this way you give the plant time to adjust and you don’t burn them . Never make sudden changes in your root zone , it usually takes about 3-5 days for the roots to respond . But never feed every watering , the concept is water , water , feed if that make sense . For me and I’m no expert but I can grow from seed to harvest without stressing and my last yield was 4.5 ounces which was not bad after I had stress the plant to much changing nutrients . The most important key is to have patience , and after you switch from veg to flower the first feeding into the switch you have to continue the nitrogen and gradually introduce the potash flower nutrients like I’ve explained it , for example let’s say you gave the plant a vegging feed at 10ml per gallon , you do 10ml and add 2.5 ml of bloom and gradually add bloom but at the same time take away grow . Now your lights will help you more in flower verses vegging , where using LED it’s vice versa , LEDs help more in vegging than flower because they don’t put out heat is why I dehumidify the air , but they have cheap dehumidifier son Amazon for like a small camper or closet that’s about $35 plus shipping . Now I’m no expert by no means but I can go from start to finish and basically every set up is different , but you can definitely can supplement cost to grow on a budget .


#5

Now they are only a week from when the plant sprouted from the soil right , I don’t count seedling time until I see the first set of leaves is when I start the calendar . If you have enough space you can just let them grow , are you can train them by topping them which helps from stretching in flower . I used the nugbuckets method of main lining manifold technique to get more yield , or you can screen scrog , but this takes experimenting and learning how the plant grows , you can find that technique on YouTube under nugbuckets mainlining , but it’s a longer time in vegging which takes patience , normally about 2 months or longer , it depends on the grower and space he or she has in the grow space . I have a 2x2x5 tent and my last was 4.5 ounces , but this grow will be 10-12 ounces if not more dry weight when I finish .


#6

If they only 7-9 days old from sprout , you want to start your nutrients for grow in about 3 more weeks , just used ph water and fo liar spray under the leaves where the stomata opens , now don’t spray them directly just mist lightly , they are just starting to develop a root system . Now have you figure out your light distance yet ? The way you do that is to measure about 16-18 inches from the very top of the plant and set lights , than used the back of your hand , if you can feel the heat pretty warm on the back of your hand , than its to warm for the plant canopy , go up another 4 inches and repeat the process until you find the sweet spot and as the plant grows you make adjustments , if not they will stretch for the lights . Blue light for veg , red light for flower . If you have a smartphone there is a light meter app you can also use to give you a better judgement of how much light it’s receiving , which really helps . When you get to flower remember the more intense light the better your yield , so you bring the lights closer but not to close , used the same method . Hopefully I’m covering everything , again I’m no expert but I try to make it simple for most people who starting out , so they don’t make the mistakes I’ve made . Latewood and Macgyverstoner are the guys that are professionals , I’m just a member , but I have grown from seed to harvest , ah about 15 times very successfully , now I’ve never grown in hydro , only soil , but after this harvest I’m trying the hydro with advance ph perfect technology nutrients professional line , by the way can be very costly . But if you see a thread topic that might be a question of concern , you can ask in that thread and one of the more commercial growers might can answer on your space , lights , humidity , etc . I’ve never grown with CFL or MH lights , I have a very powerful LED light from advance lights that is very strong and I had great success with it without using a lot of kilowatts or electricity . This is another helpful tool , I run my lights after peak hour that way I’m not using a lot of power . Most states peak hour surcharge is between 2 pm -9 pm this is when the average household is most active , so I run my lights from 10 pm over night through the 18/6 or 12/12 but I used 10/14 in flower the keep from reducing THC . The lights reduce your THC when they are , and the plant reproduces when the lights are off , so I flower 10 hours on and 14 hours off to make more resin and trichomes to get that sticky , crystal covering which makes your potency twice as strong . It also suppose to help finish faster . After your 7 week in flower , this is when most growers start they flushing , which gives a clean smoke , but I start mines at 8 weeks because I have only a 1 gallon or 3 gallon bucket I grow in because of space , and it don’t take 2 weeks to flush . Once the plant finish , I put in complete darkness for 48-72 hours to maximize my resin , but it’s just my little techniques I’ve learned that works for me . Hope this helps Phillip , and if there any question you might have , if I cannot answer technically , somebody in the forum can definitely help you . Macgyverstoner and Latewood like to answer most question because they are the two guys that does voluntary help for Robert to help people learn how to grow medical cannabis , now if it’s the weekend it may take them until Monday or Tuesday to respond , they have normal lives , kids , and family as well . Hopefully I covered the basics to help you out buddy !!!


#7

When you make the switch into flower the first week is the same measurement of grow and add 2.5 ml of bloom once a week , are after watering twice . Example , ph water until dry , ph water until dry , ph feeding nutrients ? Second week ph water until dry , ph water until dry , ph feeding 2.5 ml less of grow and add 2.5 ml of bloom until dry . Third week ph water until dry , ph water until dry , ph feeding 2.5 less grow and add 2.5 ml bloom . By the fourth week you should be not giving no more grow nutrients , only bloom and adding 2.5 ml of THC nutrients . Now when you get to week 5 you start another transition into the THC nutrients . Example ph water until dry , ph water until dry , ph feeding bloom nutrients full measurement but add 5 ml of THC mass nutrients . Week 6 you give 50/50 of bloom and mass ph . Week 7 you can initiate your flush or feed one last time of a full bloom and a full mass nutrients after watering than start your flush through week 8 and week 9 . Now some sativa 's take a little longer than indica’s and can go 11 weeks .


#8

If you confused at all , shoot me a message and I’ll do my best …but try to learn to listen to your plants , which takes you watching them in they development in each stage . With a small space and strong lights you might have to water more often , but keep a watchful eye on things . If you go to Walmart in the pharmacy section you can find those humidifiers , not so costly but works great in small spaces .


#9

I invited MacG , we has time he might have you fill out a support ticket and go from there , he is a very knowledgable person on growing and he can definitely get you from seed to harvest , me and many others trust his wisdom …happy growing buddy !!!


#10

thank you so much man,there are a lot of details that i didnt know!!!
thanx for opening my eyes .
i am just a little bit confused about the nutrients start because i noticed the first set of leaves at 11th of september and today.a week after they are already 10 inches tall and they have 4 sets of leaves already so i still dont know when to start feeding lol
what are the alternative nods?english is not my mothers tongue,i live in Greece so there are certain terms i don t know and google translate doesn t help at all :smile:
is one whole month enough for vegging?longer vegging has to do with larger yield or smt else?


#11

How far do you have lights ? Alternating nodes is this for example . The first set of leaves is one node , the next set is two nodes , the next set is three nodes . Here is another way of identifying , the first leaf should have three leaves , the second should have five leaves , the third should have seven , the fourth should have nine leaves . After you see the nine leaf the plant should be ready for nutrients . If your lights are far from plant it will stretch drastically for the lights . The closer the lights , the less it stretches . Can you upload a photo maybe ?


#12

maybe this will help , picture one is first leaf , second picture is the second set , third picture is the third .


#13

If you seen the first set on the 11 th of September , they are only a week old , so you have about 3 more weeks to start grow nutrients . Now if you decide to do anything only give it 2.5 ml per gallon if you decide to feed it at all before your fourth week from September 11 , so your first feeding should be the first of October .


#14

These links should help.

A regular sonic humidifier you get at almost any store or pharmacy, or maybe even the type that uses heat to create the “steam” or mist can work as long as the heat doesn’t throw your room’s total heat allowances off, and either is a good idea as mentioned my Yoshi.

But I wouldn’t worry too much about the humidity being a little low. It wouldn’t hurt too much in most instances, you are barely a little low, and better a little too low than too high and getting bud rot, mildew or mold.

Blog article by Robert:

~MacG


#15

distance from plants is almost 1meter,is this why they are stretching so early?the leaves are not even near to the size of the ones in the 2nd pic you uploaded,maybe half size or less(i will try to upload a pic tomorrow).should i use your method and place them exactly where the plants canopy doesn t get hot?


#16

http://gamerchronic.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/cola3.jpg


#17

Yes if they stretching and the stem is very thin your lights can be to far . Try using the back of the hand method like I explained earlier . Lower your lights to about 16-18 inches if it’s to hot on the back of your hand right above the canopy it’s too close , raise it higher about 4 inches a repeat the process . That’s the guy there who is the expert that just responded Macgyverstoner !!!


#18

thank you very much i will upload some pics tomorrow if you have time to check them out and advise me
also one of my 10 babies looks like someone has stepped with his boot on it :smile:
i mean leaves are not streched and the 2nd set of leaves one leaf is growing smaller than the other and i don t know what s wrong.
hope you can tell me when i upload the pics.
again thank you and Yoshi so much for the valuable info,i have already tried to grow 3 times in the past but all failed due to different reasons (mostly because i had no idea of what i was doing and didn t have someone to advise me)so now that i found ILGM i decided to make another try hopefully this time i will succeed because you know it s not only the money i have spent for the grow room but also the anxiety and the stress i experience while i am waiting to harvest my own buds and in the end i end up with nothing…
have a nice weekend
phillip


#19

10 days old




what s wrong with this baby?

any ideas what has happened?


#20

10 days old


any ideas what s wrong with this baby?
one leaf is growing bigger than other