What’s up with these colors? Part of the process or bite issue?

@Myfriendis410, @Cannabian, @LandShark, @Vance420

Thank you all for your expertise.

In the interest of clear Communications, the Ph is and has been perfect. Tested in and out on a calibrated device. It’s just the tds meter I lacked.

The plants haBe been very healthy until 10 or so days ago when she Started changes colors. I was told, “normal fall color change. No worries.” I’ve hit them lightly with nutes maybe 1 or 2 feedings at 25% and they never got calmag till yesterday 1/4 gal @ 3ml

Since then she appears to have cannibalized themselves and are looking sparse. The buds still look good But the yellow and brown is creeped near the sweet leaves.

I’m thinking y’all are right and that they are hungry. The meter will be in shortly and I’ll run the test. I’ll measure ph and and ppm of the solution going in, how much I used and the ph and ppm coming out. I will then post the results and some photos.

It’s limiting my posts so IM trying to stay quiet until then. Please advice if this testing regiment is wrong or lacking. And again, thank you.

3 Likes

Uh yes and nope! Fall color changes dont create holes and burnt margins, so you have something other than normal color changes going on there.

1 Like

The forum engine responds to you reading some posts and using the ‘Like’ button. Your trust level will go up as you use the forum.

2 Likes

Meter was delayed a day. Damn it.

Thanks. @Myfriendis410 @Cannabian After we do this test tomorrow - and assuming it says to feed them - I won’t be able to feed my plants for a day or so huh? Due to the fact the soil will already be too wet?

1 Like

Personally I like to support the plant with more N than most nutrient lines provide, so depending on the plant I’ll usually maintain a small amount of Grow throughout flower but the primary supplements the plant needs now is Phosphorus and Potassium. Behind that is Magnesium and Calcium. 99.9% of problems fall within these nutrients and micro-. Plant’s demands for salts are right about at their peak now assuming you have good transpiration rates (look up VPD).

Damaged plant material will not recover so look to sugar leaf production and pistil growth for signs of improvement. Best to remove all necrotic leaf material (you have quite a bit) to prevent disease.

Continue with cal mag until a couple of weeks prior to harvest. You’ll do well to go on a water only diet at that time. Plant doesn’t look too bad and you’ll get some good flower off of her.

2 Likes

As usual @Myfriendis410 is spot on! And, while you may have moist soil, its ok to give a light feeding anyway. Just dont douse the plant. However, do your testing and ensure everything is proper! Your weed will thank you in returns!

1 Like

It says here Lowrider finishes in 8-9 weeks.
Have you checked your trichomes? The plant may be finished. Just a thought, that I didn’t see anyone else consider.

1 Like

They are close for sure. But the trichomes are still clear. I’ll post pics of them after I run the test today.

1 Like

@VigorTheCarpathian

That is Nitrogen Burn

th

The reason for this is, because a newer grower will use a chemical nutrient
most of the time and listen to the directions on the box. This is a NO NO!
Depending on the age of the plant, size, strain and soil mixture you are using
also has a factor. There is no set guideline when using nutrients, but I can
give you a good example to start out with so you will not burn your plants.
It’s always good to start out light, rather than feed heavy. Remember you can
always add more later, but can not take out when you added to much. Chemical
and Organic nutrients differ. Chemical nutrients are more readily available
and can burn way easier than organics can. Organics are easier for a newer
grower to use, most of the time, and lessen your chances of burning your plants.
I recommend not using more than ½ teaspoon of chemical nutrients per gallon
of water. Unless the plants are very big 5 feet+, then it’s safe to use 1
teaspoon per gallon of water. When your plants first emerge you want to wait
at least 2 weeks before feeding your plants, unless your plants are in a soiless
mixture, like pro mix. The cotyledons (its first set of round looking leaves) are
what give the plant its food until they get the first 2 or 3 sets of leaves. If
your plants are in a soiless mixture and are over the first week of age; you can
feed a weak amount of nutrients, like ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water. Soiless
mixtures are different from soil plants and soiless plants need to be fed more
when using this mixture.

I also recommend not feeding more than 1 time a week if using ½ teaspoon per
gallon of water for chemical nutrients. You can feed every other day,( this
goes for chemical and organics) at very weak amounts, but doing this may contribute
to over watering, and for that I do not recommend feeding more than once a week.
Some people feed 2 times a week using like ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water… Use 1/4
strength for first feeding and then go up to 1/2 strength from the 2nd feeding when
using chemical nutrients. It’s very easy to overdo it. When using organics, depending
on which one you’re using, I recommend using 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. When the
plant gets bigger you can work your way up to using more nutrients when the plants
get bigger.

As for soil mixtures, there are a lot of different kinds of soil’s out there. Using a
rich soil mixture is not recommended for seedlings. Seedlings that are under 2
weeks of age you do not want to start them in rich soil, using a seed starter
mixture is one of the safer ways. Seed starter mixtures are weak in nutrients,
so it will not burn the seedlings but will provide them enough to get past seedling
stage, but the downside is you have to transplant into a better soil mixture after 2
weeks of age. If you decide to start with this mixture, do not put your seedlings
into a big pot. Start them out with using a cup or a small pot.

Nutrient Burn causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. They can also be brown
and twisted and crispy looking. Depending on the severity it can show many different
symptoms and shows on lower part of the plant when its young, at older stages it
can move anywhere on the plant. The burn will creep into the center of the leaf
causing it to curl and dry up. It depends on the specific nutrient that is in excess.
For example, too much nitrogen causes leaves to curl downwards and too much potassium
creates brown spots near the edge of the leaf. Either way, nutrient burn may potentially
kill your plant or lead to it having a strong chemical taste.

To fix the problem when you have Nutrient burn, you want to flush out the plants
with lots of water.

Soil

Soil should be flushed with lots of water, Use 3 gallons of water per one gallon of soil.
Flush very thoroughly, after plant recovers usually after a week, you can resume using
nutrients after a week or a week 1/2. When you flush your soil, you flush everything out,
a lot of nutrients go with it, including the soil nutrients.

Hydro `````````````````
Change out the reservoir, flush out any lines and clean out the entire system and
replace with plain water for the first hour, then start out with lower parts per
million (PPM)
Its good to clean out your system every 2 weeks and replace with fresh water and
nutrients. Some people change everything every week!

Ahh, nute burn! Stop this by not adding to much chemical/organic nutrients to your
water,foliar feeding. DONT feed more than 1 time a week unless using weak amount,
use 1/4 strength for first feeding and then go up to 1/2 strength from then on when
using chemical nutrients. Its very easy to overdo it. Causes leaf tips to appear
yellow or burnt. NEVER give nutrients to plants that are under 2 weeks of age, at
this age the soil nutrients are enough to suppliment them untill 2 weeks of age or
more depending on how good your soil is. Using ferts before 2 weeks will almost
likley kill your plants.

4 Likes

Thank you for your feedback. I’m going to be running some tds tests today. I’ll tag you when I post the results.

@VigorTheCarpathian,

Good deal, ill be checking your thread for your update.

Wil

@garrigan62 @Cannabian @Vance420 @Myfriendis410 @Tastebuds

I got the TDS meter in and the results are as follows. I did two output readings. The first 1/2 and the second 1/2 of the run-off.

Plant 1A approx .5 gal h20
h2o in: PPM: 0075 PH 6.1
h2o out: PPM: 0841 PH 6.18
h20 out #2: PPM .0930 PH 6.28

Plant 1B approx .5 gal h20
h2o in: PPM: 0075 PH 6.1
h2o out: PPM: 0815 PH 6.28
h20 out #2: PPM 0904 PH 6.23

Lets here it my expert friends. Ive hardly been able sleep waiting to hear from you good people. I still dont know how to convert the PPM to the required or abundance of nutes and look forward to learning how to be a little more technical than guess and check 2 days later.

So here’s what I would do:

At next feeding provide supplements to the tune of around 1,200 ppm in soil and a healthy dose of cal mag. The next time, water only and check runoff TDS again. Not so worried about PH now as media is in range. If runoff is less than the input, supplement again the next time. If runoff exceeds input TDS, water only the next time until TDS starts to fall. When it does; resume 1,200 ppm of bloom nutes and cal mag.

3 Likes

So mix nutes according to manufacturers recommendation and then dilute until I get to 1200 ppm then add 4 ml calmag per gal of solution?

Also in the interest of learning. How did you get to the number of 1200 from the numbers I gave you? I really want to be an independent grower and want to learn the voodoo you do.

Also can I feed them today? Obviously they are already super wet from the testing.

And last question. Fox farm feeding schedule is 12 weeks and I’m kn week 8 of a 9 week grow. I’m not sure which week to use from the chart. Auto flower documentation is lacking.

Sorta… the ppm should include everything that is the water you are using, the fertilizer you are using, any ph adjusters if you are using and the cal mag. Tyoically, we do fertizers separately from a cal mag feeding. Like mix your fertilizer into you water and then check the ppm, if you dilute then check the ph after… best to keep the ph in range or your plants wont be able to take up the nutes.

2 Likes

@Cannabian I mixed my nutes according to week 9 of a 12 week schedule. (Though they are autoflowers and won’t make it past week 10 tops) And low and behold it is 1288 ppm. Is this basically telling me I should simply have followed the guide verbatim?

I will not them add them unless you tell me it’s ok. I think it’ll be a few days before they dry out from the test I did. can feed them since they are waterlogged anyhow? Please advice.

And is there is some way to reciprocate the support here? Besides buying all my seeds from ILGM going forward?

1 Like

I will yield to @Myfriendis410 s advice on that. He has the most experience in that area. If you were to water typically, do you water until water is coming out the bottom? If so, when was the last time you watered and what was in the water?

1 Like