They look better but I still have all these ugly yellow leaves and I’m not sure which are new or not. I have a whole bunch of damaged leaves—either yellowed or with burnt looking edges or spots. Should I get rid of any/all of these leaves or leave them? The first picture has a bunch of yellow or damaged leaves. That’s the one that was so horribly droopy in a span of hours yesterday
Looks like some 
been gnawing. But the color wont come back. If its all yellow/brown give it a slight tug. If it comes off so be it. But ones with green left, leave them to monitor progress. 6.5 watering was today or yesterday?
Yes! I keep picking those mothertruckers off! I made some neem oil spray and I finished the test-it-on-my-plants-before-spraying-them-all period, so when it gets dark I’m gonna douse the plants and hope that helps. Lady bugs will be arriving tomorrow to help with the thrips that are feasting on my ladies. Today it’s only supposed to get into the mid-80’s so it won’t be as brutal, but I gave them the 2 gallons of 6.5 pH yesterday around 2-3 pm (meaning they only got about 5 hours of sunlight after and it wasn’t even 5 hours of direct light) and the soil is dark but barely moist. One of those, if I stick a pencil in it will come out mostly clean. I can’t believe how thirsty my girls are! I had been watering pretty regularly I thought but I guess it wasn’t enough.
So those that have green but the dead/brown spots and/or brown/dead/burnt edges I should leave, but the yellow I should give a slight tug to see if they pop off? It’s crazy because the yellow leaves that are left are either mostly yellow with a hint of green or totally yellow like the one pictured, but their stems are still strong and holding tight to the stalk.
I’m pretty sure part of the problem is a calmag deficiency, which is where some of the white speckles and brown spotting comes in I think. I foliar fed them calmag last Sunday and they seemed to enjoy it, and I had planned to add a little whenever I give them their weekly feeding. Do you agree with this process?
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Also, I just gave them another gallon of water each and tried to test the runoff but there wasn’t hardly any runoff. Does that mean they need more or does it just mean they’re retaining everything?
And just to double check, the reason I should transplant is because they ARE showing signs of root problems? Or was it something else?
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Sorry it took so long to respond. Busy weekend. But id definitely repot anyway. Before flowering started. They are gonna need more rootspace. And if when you water u dont get runoff then youre probably not using enough water. After plants are well established, i water/feed to runoff everytime
No worries, thank you for getting back to me!
So I transplanted my autos because I was pretty sure they were getting root bound, but when I transplanted I expected to see roots COVERING the soil. Weirdly enough, there didn’t seem to be a big mass of roots, which was really weird to me because all of them were twice as tall as their pots. I thought maybe the roots might just be tangled up inside the ball of soil that got transplanted with them. But anyway, I did transplant them. I swear, they’ve already noticeably grown since last night lol
Last Thursday I covered all of my plants in neem oil and on Friday I released some ladybugs who didn’t stay long. I think the neem oil has made a huge difference in the bug issue and the fact the ladybugs bounced out pretty quickly makes me think that they didn’t have enough food—i.e, pests. Ever since the increase in watering and the neem oil, there also hasn’t been a bunch of new yellow leaves that I need to pick off each day. In fact, it’s only been a matter of giving the yellow ones a slight tug to see if they come off—some are still holding super strong despite their condition so I haven’t really yanked them. But it’s nice that I’m not noticing a bunch of new cases of dying foliage ever day. Very encouraging. Granted, I could be mistaken.
In general they seem to be doing a lot better. Yesterday they got their weekly nutrients mixed in with their water. I did not give them calmag—either with their watering or foliar feeding. They seem to be doing fine, but the only thing I’ve noticed is some curling on the tips of some leaves. It’s not super widespread but there are some curls here and there as pictured. Coupled with the yellowing, I think that my girls may need some extra nitrogen, as was suggested by someone.
My plan was to stop and get some calcium nitrate today so I can give them a foliar feeding of it. I figured the calcium nitrate could help with the nitrogen but also the calcium deficiency if that’s still a problem. What are your thoughts? Should I give them calmag AND calcium nitrate or just calcium nitrate? Is it safe/ok to give it to them via foliar feeding even though I just gave them the neem oil via foliar feeding last night? Is it better to just get something I can dissolve in their water?
I didn’t transplant my biggest ladies because I need to go on a larger mission to find bigger pots with good drainage. Lots of clay and decorative pots, but not as many that I think work for my purposes. I’m so nervous to transplant them though! They’re so big and I worry about stressing them out a lot. They’re all over 4 feet tall now. Any tips on how best to safely do this when they’re so big? Is it the same process just with extra care?
I also tested the runoff of my big ladies yesterday (and the autos but they were freshly transplanted so I don’t know if the reading holds true). Like I mentioned in my other post, the first time, I didn’t really get enough runoff. Last night, I got plenty. The run off between all six plants was between 6.4-6.5–which I think is a huge victory. HOWEVER…I tested the runoff with my water pH tester and it came up between 6.4-6.5, but when I used the soil pH tester straight in the soil, they all came up about 7.1 (save for one which weirdly came up as 6.2). Is it safe to assume my soil tester is faulty or what do you think? It makes me wonder where my girls were actually at before I gave them nothing but their 6.5-ish water!
Here are some pictures. There are a couple of all my plants and then some damaged leaves. I’m PRETTY sure that these leaves are not new cases but instead are old ones either healing or succumbing to whatever was damaging them. You mentioned the leaves wouldn’t repair themselves so I’m guessing that’s what it is. They’re just so glaringly ugly and obvious I can’t help but focus on them and wonder if they’re actually getting better or not.
Finally: when should I expect my photos and autos to start flowering? These are my autos and they’re 5 weeks old. They sprouted on May 6. I can’t help but feel like they’re a bit behind. They’re all 1 foot or taller but they just don’t seem far along for plants that should theoretically be half way through their lifecycle (which is 10-12 weeks typically, right?) I’ve never grown autos before though.
My other plants are about 9 weeks (sprouted April 6). At what point should I expect them to start flowering and at what point should I worry that they haven’t?
Thanks for all of your help. Believe me, I’ve researched these things/questions, but I’d like to hear the voices of experience rather than just the literature. Thank you!
Ok loads of input. Ill try to touch on everything (maybe not in order 
)
Awesome job on the transplants. Everyone looks happy n no PurpnGolden level mistakes (dropping plants, breaking stems, disturbing roots). When transplanting a monster just be uber careful. Try to find another steady hand to help.
Yes the ugly leaves stay ugly. No worries there. But some look to be actually showing N toxicity. U see the burned tips? I call that a good nail job. Its EXACTLY the amount of overfeeding I chase. No big.
The soil meters SUCK! Save that for flowers or tomatoes. And told u pH was the culprit (& a bit of rootboundness)
Photos flower when the light cycle flips. Here in Mississippi it starts around Sept. where r u located? Suffice tp say ur gonna have some BIG ASS PLANTS. Autos flip when they want. Usually after 5 weeks ish. If u wanna ‘push’ them, make a shade… like a little tent n cover them around 6-7 pm
The calmag. I always supplement calmag but my lighting is uber intense. Id be wary on more N
See I had thought part of my problem was nutrient burn! When I had those burnt edges and a clear thrip problem, I thought those were from the thrips. Someone in a separate post suggested it too and I asked about the burnt tips and yellowing and someone just said it’s probably thrips because yellowing lower foliage and burnt edges that look eaten are signs of them. I had also found a lot of feces on the backs of lower leaves and when I moved my hand around the soil, I would see a bunch of little gnat-size bugs flying around. I know thrips were at least PART of the problem but that may have changed now. I realize now that not all of these edges look eaten though. So the curling I’m seeing on some leaves—is that normal or do you think it’s N toxicity? Or something else?
The calmag—I’ll skip the cal-nitrate unless something specific happens if you’re confident it’s not a nitrogen deficiency—but even though I gave them a foliar spray of neem oil last night, can I give them a foliar spray of calmag tonight and they’ll still soak it up ok? One won’t affect the other?
I’m in Southern California. With the heat lately we’ve got some intense heat, but i don’t know that it compares to Missouri!
So the autos could potentially start flowering any day? They seem so underdeveloped! But I’m not accustomed to autos so I don’t fully know what to expect. I know they’re not supposed to get massive, but I thought they’d be a little fuller and bushier before they flower. Also, I noticed this weird spotting yesterday and these burnt edges. Is this a pest? Deficiency? The root problem?
Thanks again for all of your help!
And holy crap. Just checked my pots and they’re already 6.24 gallons 
The fabrics at 6.5 should be fine. But cali has some strange weather as well! North or south? Ull be late Sept to flower too. Id def be looking for atleast 10-15 gals.
Those dots look to me like bug bites. The burnt tips AND the leaf curl are more a sign of N deficiency.
Southern California. San Bernardino/LA county. And yeah, we get some weird ass weather sometimes. For example we had a serious and sudden deluge of rain that caused some flooding a few weeks ago followed by two weeks of 100+ degree weather and bright sun and then this last week of mid 80’s-90’s.
I’ve managed to find some 10 gallons I’m hoping will work, and I figured they were bug bites—I just wanted to double check.
There aren’t an excessive amount of curls but there are a few here and there. Like a single finger on a leaf has a gently curled tip here and there. There seemed like there were more yesterday but they did get their weekly nutrients so maybe that helped a little. I’m hoping that means that it must be really early stages? Do you think I should try a foliar feeding of calcium nitrate after all? Or would adding it to their water be better?
While all the plants had the yellowing-lower-leaves issue and some burnt edges, not every plant has curled tips which I would guess means they probably don’t ALL need nitrogen. I know different plants can get different readings and absorb nutrients differently, but they do all get the same, nearly identical treatments of watering and nutrients at the same time. Is it possible for some of them to have N toxicity and others to have a deficiency? Meaning the ones with burnt edges and no curls have toxicity and the ones with curls have a deficiency? Or is it more likely they’re all deficient and some are just further along and showing more obvious signs?
Definitely. Even same genetics have diff eating habits sometimes. I had 6 strains n fed them all the same unless one REALLY didnt like the schedule (spoiler alert Purple Trainwreck is a picky eater)
The adjusting to a prpper pH helps them eat better so maybe they just thoroughly enjoyd those meals u had hiding in the dirt. Just keep a close eye. I wouldnt foliar yet. Unless those spots keep spreading.
Ok, so don’t foliar the calcium nitrate OR the calmag? Or should I go ahead and give them the calmag anyway?
You dont wanna prematurely do either. I was scrolling to see. Did you recently flush? And when did you last water/feed and with what? Sorry ima pothead and my scrolling was ineffective
A cal or mag toxicity will throw even more problems into the bucket. Remember KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid
Sidenote: where the hell is @raustin when you need her 
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I’ve been giving them 6.5 pH water for about 5 days now—giving them plenty of water too. I didn’t do a flush in the sense that I ran up to 15 gallons through it but they’ve been getting 1-2 gallons a day of 6.5 pH water, and they’re soaking it up. I’m also waiting to transplant and I think you’d said if I’m transplanting I may not need to flush because it’s like starting fresh, right?
Last night they got fed with ILGM’s Growtime fertilizer and 2 gallons of water. (The first gallon was regular 6.5 water and the second gallon had the nutrients):
They were also sprayed with a neem oil solution. I heard neem oil can be good for the plant itself but the purpose of it was for pests
Ahhh! Yes. A foliar feed of calmag wouldnt hurt. The semi flush (my fav kind btw, just straight water a week or so) means she is probably lacking all nutes. U can foliar or add calmag to next watering.
You’re pHing your nutes, too, right?
Your plants really are large for 5 gallon pots. Once they flower, they’re going to double. Rootbound plants can run into all sorts of issues. I highly recommend you transplant before they get too much more cumbersome.
You have gorgeous plants! Don’t forget that the roots are just as important as the stems, leaves, and buds. If your roots aren’t happy, no amount of pH adjusting/feed will truly help solve your leaf/bud issues. Just be aware of that as you continue to feed/treat them for possible issues.
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See Betty! This is why we need you over here. 
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@PurpNGold74 Yes we do need Betty here! But I can understand her reasons.
We sure could use raustin too. I hope her break is over soon.
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Sames… but i dont have to be happy 
A super villian needs an arch nemesis
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