What is wrong with my baby :(

I have an issue I have white on 1 leaf I have these spotting on another, and yellowing in the middle of another and leaves are curling up what is wrong with her since she looks healthy

@garrigan62 @Donaldj @steve2 @AgentJay

Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so = NA

Strain; Type, Bag seed, or NA

Soil in pots, Hydroponic, or Coco?

System type?

PH of runoff or solution in reservoir?

What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS

Indoor or Outdoor

Light system, size?

Temps; Day, Night

Humidity; Day, Night

Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size

AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,

Co2; Yes, No

Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer. Feel free to elaborate, but short, to the point questions and facts will help us help you smile

The white looks like white powdery mildew.
Powdery Mildew

Mildew spores can be brought into the grow room through air ventilation into your grow room, your cloths, pets and be carried by animals outdoors. and land on the plant infecting other parts of the plant, buds, stems, stalks and leaves, also spores can land on indoor grow room walls, tubes, growing equipment, hoods, ballast’s, cords and etc. Spores can remain dormant until environment factors trigger it, like high humidity and cool temperatures, poor air circulation. Powdery mildew in vegetative growth is much easier to rid than in the later stages of flowering. Night time temperatures and moisture triggers spores to be released. The mildew eventually covers and coats the plant thus reducing the process of photosynthesis. If left untreated powdery mildew will infect all plants in your garden and coat your plants in flour like substance and cause leaves to “suffocate” Yellow and die off. If your plants are in flowering, depending how far into flowering, your buds will eventually become infected and will not be able to be used. Buds will have a stale moist smell and will be coated with a white powdery substance that can’t be removed no matter what you do. Very early detection in flowering plants that have powdery mildew is extremely important, the longer you wait in flowering the more impossible it gets to eradicate this, due to this, bud size gets bigger in flowering and having high humidity temperatures over 65% can trigger active spores to start, not only powdery mildew, but triggers other problems from it, like bud rot. Not only will you have lower yield, but you won’t have any buds, due to the fact mold has crippled your harvest.
Strains vary in susceptibility to molds, just like other pathogens and nutrient requirements and care.

Prevent and Control

Symptoms of your plants having powdery mildew include: white blotches of furry stuff and white spots or splotches that you can wipe off, having humidity that is over 65%, also starts on darker areas of the plant and spreads to the top. Darker areas on your plant that do not get a lot of light will start to show this first, then when spores become active it spreads to everything. The longer you let it go the harder it will be to eradicate, late flowering plants that have this are extremely hard to get rid of, due to bud density thicker in late flowering plants, because of this the mildew attacks the buds which you can’t cure mildew once it affects the buds.(also known as Bud Rot)Plants that are stressed from environment factors, or fighting pest’s will be taken over more by this mold, due to the fact it’s already fighting problems. If you see your stressed plants getting it first, try to isolate the plant and bring down humidity, better air ventilation and or negative air pressure grow room. If you have mildew with your fans running, you will need to take them down and clean them as the fans can spread spores around the room. You will need to wash down everything in your indoor grow room, spores land on everything, so everything needs to be washed with mild hot water and bleach solution. Removing infected leaves from the grow room is critical, carefully removing them and trying to not knock spores into the air is a challenge. Applying a bag over infected leaves and tying it shut then removing it helps out with not knocking up spores in the air. Making sure you use h202 on stems that have open wounds from leaves that was removed. DO NOT water when lights are going to be going out, doing this keeps water on the plants soil and causes higher humidity levels, this goes for foliar feeding. Water plants when lights first come on or there is at least 5 hours left of lights on. You want to reduce the amount of humidity as possible if your levels of RH are high, you want to keep your humidity levels around 40 to 50%, and anything over 60% is going to trigger problems. Also keeping plants spaced apart allowing maximum air flow in between plants will help minimize plant to plant infection. Using a dehumidifier can greatly reduce humidity issues. Using a meter that tells your grow room conditions like temperature, RH and time can help combat your problems, by keeping track before and after you water can tell you how much if any your humidity can rise after changes made to the grow room. Sulphur Burner is another way to prevent and kill powdery mildew by vaporizing spores in the air. (Do not apply sulfur when air temperature is near or over 90°F) Controlling your mildew outdoors can be somewhat of a challenge, you can’t control outdoor temperatures, or environmental factors, Using Vapor Gard,Wilt Pruf sprayed over the leaves can prevent infection’s.
You will need to treat your plants with various organic and chemical controls. This list will work for indoor and outdoor growers in killing and preventing Powdery Mildew. Outdoor growers can use Organics List below to help prevent Powdery Mildew of starting, even after it has started using anything below will help kill it off. (Note: When using chemical and or organic control methods, do not spray the buds, and for health and safety reasons, stay away from spraying around the buds if all possible.)


The top and bottom look as if they have heat stress.

Your cannabis plant can only withstand a certain amount of heat and light. After a certain point, your cannabis will start exhibiting signs of stress on the leaves near the sources of6light and/or heat. Your leaves will get yellow or brown brown spotting and may appear generally burnt in places when there’s too much light. If you directly touch a plant’s leaves with the lights, you will also leave “burns” if the bulbs were hot when they touched the leaves. When the heat gets too high, the edges of the serrated leaves will begin to curl up even if there are no burns or other signs of light stress. Solution: Find a way to lower the temperature and/or increase the circulation in the grow room or grow area if heat is the problem. Having a small fan blowing over the tops of your plants will help prevent hot spots from forming directly under your grow lights. If your marijuana plants are just getting too much light, try removing some of the lights or moving your lights further away from the tops of the plants. When learning how to weed, it’s best to try to keep things at a comfortable room temperature at all times for optimal growth. If it’s too hot for you, it’s probably too hot for your plants.


Thank you Donald I was going to do that nextim almost positive that that one plant has white powdery mildew. And needs to be dealt with a.s.a.p
Cause its going to spread big time.


Strain; auto bubble gum 50% indo 20% sativa

Soil in pots, no nutes soil

System type N/A

PH of runoff or solution in reservoir. 7.0

What is strength of nutrient mix? 1-7-6

Indoor or Outdoor: indoor

Light system, size? 1 cfl 2 cfl flood lights 1 small hps

Temps; day,night: 80-75

Humidity; day, Night: 25-40
Ventilation system; fan is on 24/7 ventilating

AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier: N/A

Co2; NO

@Donaldj @garrigan62

Your ph is .way out of range…WoW … Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Deficiency.

Which plant did you use fot the ticket.
I ask because you have more than one problem here


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Oh and flood lights…I think thats your heat stress problem.
Flood light put out way to much heat
Back them lights off.


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As Will stated you have some signs of heat stress your humidity is pretty low which doesn’t help the mildew can be dealt with.

Is there any way I could drop lower the ph , what you mean for the ticket, my flood lights don’t produce any heat I do the finger test I could touch my flood light for 10 seconds and won’t burn

So the humidity won’t help the mildew grow or move to other leafs right if I keep the humidity that low would it go away

mildew is deceptive it actually likes 55% humidity or higher it spreads spores faster in low humidity your plants Breathe exhaling moisture when the humidity is low they transpire more for the mildew you can mist leaves with a milk water mixture

Simple thing to consider your humidity is low yet mildew anyway.

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PH down lemon juice in a pinch but ph dwn can be purchased at pet stores or even Battery acid don’t laugh not kidding you can buy car battery refill acid. What you then do is adjust your watering and feeding ph lower this overtime adjusts the soils ph.
PS don’t use battery acid that has been in battery only refill no one likes lead in their smoke :wink:

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This is really confusing so mildew likes high humidity but spreads faster in low humidity? ??

So I can use lemon juice to lower ph,

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I think your ph for soil should be 6.5 …

Alright thanks my ph is 7.0

You need to do something with that mildew. Cause it will spread to all your leaves. I dont know if you read my post on mildew. I left aolution to your problem. But you still ask .questions.
As for the flood light. Just thoughs very words to me screams Heat… but they that look of being stressed.


I wiped cleaned my grow box and fan I also took the 2 leaves off how you said but I read that using a teaspoon of baking soda and 1 quart of water would that work, or how much milk for water to use, I don’t have any pest problems