What do you think, transitionig

Feed as normal ,just raise the Ph .
Hammer .

@Hammer Ok ,thanks

@Hammer I raised my Ph. to 6.7,did my feeding my runoff still was 6.1. Should I wait for next feeding and try again?

@fella1451 .Yes , And check your calibration with ph fluid .
Hammer

@Hammer Looked in on my baby today and I’m seeing brown leaves yellow, and curling tips tips.Do you think this have to do with my runoff ?Here some pctures

Man I hope you didn’t just switch from veg nutrients straight into flowering nutrients .

@yoshi No, I’m still feeding transition stage (GH flora grow 3 part system with calimagic). Tha’s 2 part micro, 2 part grow, 2 part bloom.

@yoshi I meant to say, I’m 11 days in transtion.

Okay what’s your ph reading of your water and nutrients going into the pot and running out ? It should be right at 5.8-6.2 in soil , some say 6.5 but between 5.8-6.2 has worked successfully for me in my last several grows . You said you was feeding 3 part and having issues right , so you have to figure out which nutrient is being locked out by understanding what defiency your plant can bestowing signs of , flush it out if you can and let t recover and dry out and start your nutrients where you left off .

@yoshi Right now it’s in light off, do i wait for next feeding or flush when my light on cycle comes? I have 3 gallon pot so flush with 3 gal water phed at 5.8-6.2.let dry then feed my regular transition nutrients.

@yoshi Do I remove bad leaves after flushing or after feeding and then monitor what it does. o yeah my ph going in is 6.3-6.5, runoff is 6.0-6.1

Okay pour your ph water in the plant to match the numbers coming out in the runoff …so if your runoff is 6.0-61 than that’s the level of your ph you want to pour in the pot make sense ? But before you start reacting , first try to identify the problem , than read up on how to fix the problem if one exists , than you take action , by flushing and replenishing nutrients . You have to make your own judgement Sir , and not to what most of us say , even though we mean well , we are there to see the plant . But first identify your issue , than follow methods to correct them , hope this helps .

I like 6.3 - 6.6 range best for soil ?

I go up and then back .1 every watering to allow maximum uptake of various elements (6.3, 6.4, 6.5, 6.6, then back down 6.5, 6.4, 6.3)

  • best wishes
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@Paranorman thats absolutely correct great info , but I’ve never PH’ed to 6.5 , the highest I’ve went was 6.3 but it don’t mean you’re not correct . I might try that range this grow in my widow plant .

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I saw a chart, it’s probably from here? …when I get home later tonight I’ll try to find it

it shows every element and where its optimal absorption range is so by going up and down one little bit each time I think I’m giving my plants the best chance of absorbing every element

I’m not a strict about it, but because of you guys I’m starting to at least write things down LOL! ( who says you can’t teach the old dog a new trick! ) :slight_smile:

You guys have helped make me a better grower and I’m always glad to try to offer help back… :thumbsup:

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I haven’t seen a chart but @Latewood taught me this early in my experience , and I been using this method for quite awhile , but I would like to view the chart though .

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at last…A real CalMag issue. This is a Calmag issue due to you using the Lucas formula. )-1-2 is the Lucas formula. You should read my GH 3 - part tutorial in the GrowFAQs area.

browning tips is generally a sign of nutrient toxicity. I am going to read the rest of the topci before adding any further opinion.

Why? I switch directly from veg to bloom nutrients. There is absolutely no reason not to. Some growers pick up growing traits that are not necessarily correct but, at the same time not necessarily harmful. This does not make the practice correct.

I switch to bloom nutrients when I change the photo period to 12/12. The plany uptakes what it wants when it wants. Manipulating when to change from grow to bloom nutrients is not necessary.

It is better to learn to grow from n experienced Tomato farmer, as opposed to someone who only learned to grow on a pot forum. :slight_smile: I always say.

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The practice of lowering PH in flower is a practice I have been teaching for 12 years or so…

I do not fluctuate PH up and down. Only once in mid flower, is it practiced. Here is what yoshi is talking about. There is no chart for this; It is an advanced growers tip shared by expert highly experienced growers.

In the 4th-5th week of bloom, Or; 4-5 weeks prior to finish; Lower your PH .4-.5 in order to make Nitrogen a bit less available and potassium more accessible. Like this;

example:

Soil: Lower PH to 6.1 for a week then each week there after raise PH .1; i.e. 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, 6.4, 6.5.

Hydro: Lower PH to 5.4 and then increase it .1 each week until you arrive back at 5.8. 5.4, 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, 5.8

Done. Does this clarify this technique for everyone? Thanks.

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@Latewood I did learn many things from you and @MacGyverStoner but had some experience from my mother and the boyscout in gardening . Now many years ago I did a gorilla style grow back in the swamps in the bayou’s in Louisiana but only half survived due to critters , bugs , and weather which in my early 20’s anything that was to harvest was a success , and when my oldest sister expired and past due to her alignments and sickness from colon cancer , now my second oldest sister contracts the same sickness I found you guys to help transform my early life experience in gardening but from outdoors to indoors , so yes I did learn many things in cultivating from right here from you , MacG and reading tons of info from Robert on how to cultivate a crop . So I say thank you to the experience tomato farmer for helping me along the way to get to here in cultivation in harvesting great luscious tomatoes .

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