What are my leaves telling me?

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Yea maybe so, but that’s not what’s he’s using here pig…
I’m just letting him know the correct pH range for hydroponics. Everywhere I’ve ever looked or read has said your water pH for hydro should be 5.8 for optimum nutrient intake. Regardless of what your nutrients change the water pH to, you’re supposed to correct it to 5.8 for best results. That’s a fact for weed. So unless you have a new strain that likes a different pH, I’m not sure why you’re saying his pH should be in those levels?
But anyway, we need to help him with HIS setup, and his setup requires pH of 5.8, like every other hydro grow ive ever heard of lol. But @pigSquishy nailed it with the rapid rooter needed to be more dry!

I’m not a pro and still learning but wouldn’t a little swing allow plants to change up there nute intake a little ? This is a topic I’d like to learn more about.


I think everybody’s right in this thread ?

The reason we often say 5.8 to beginners is it keeps it simple and gives them a reference point

However I agree with mr. Squishy, in that the reason some more advanced growers like a little flex room is because different nutrients absorb more readily at different pH levels

Regarding the original posters question I suspect pH issues


Could you post a photo of your roots for us?

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@kabongster I still remember that bowl of spaghetti that you had for roots! The reason I suspect pH is because he didn’t put a pH reading in the support ticket, with my glasses on I zoomed-in and that plant is in some serious distress

Do you recall blind Stoners plant? He had the same setup and I think his plant looked a lot like that too. I haven’t been able to find that thread yet, I wanted to see what he had going wrong …if I find it I’ll put a link

Edit: @ChaoticGood Found a similar thread, hope link helps ?

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Yea I’m not saying pH swing is a bad thing. I’m just saying that your target pH for hydro is 5.8, regardless of nutrients added. You will always have a pH swing with your water. Even daily your waters pH will change. But you still try to get it back to right around 5.8, that’s our goal for hydro.

Thank you all for the information.

The pH may have been off, but I corrected to 5.6-5.8 range (prefer to keep it a little bit lower to compensate for added nutrients). I did not use Cal-Mag, however I ordered Hydroguard to assist.

The temperature of the water, unfortunately, is hard for me to control. The current temperature is 22 degrees Celsius. Any suggestions other than getting a crazy expensive water chiller (which isn’t for me)?

Minimal nutrient use (maybe a tablespoon the first week - this is day 9).

As for the Rapid Rooter, I considered that it might be a bit too wet, but moving the tube was difficult (because net pot holes were too small). However, a Girl Scout Cookie Auto and Bubba Kush Auto in the same DWC look healthy in the background (see photo)

Needless to say, I lost the Pineapple Express Auto - the roots did look okay, so perhaps it was the heavy watering on the Rapid Rooter (although the leaves were not curling down much).

Thank you again, very helpful.


Here’s a chart that tells you what nutrients are available to the plant at different PH levels.


I had lots of weird things like that with plants when I used Rapid Rooters most would grow well but some would look burnt or get root rot but that all stopped when I just used Coco/perlite and stopped using rapid rooters.
And looking at the plants still growing from then most have scares around the base of the stem from i’m guessing algae from the Rapid Rooters.
I never liked the way they were always wet.

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Every morning you can put a frozen water bottle into your reservoir to help aid with bringing your water temps down. Replace as often as needed. Also, Hydroguard is a great buy, but I definitely recommend cal mag as well.


Your water temp isn’t that bad, a few degrees cooler is ideal, but not much warmer!
Be sure to provide plenty of aeration to the water…the higher the water temp, the less oxygen it holds…you have to provide it with better air pumps and air stones.

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hmmm, was that the plant you insisted be moved out of the DWC and into soil, and didn’t improve till it was transplanted?

I went looking for the topic, came up empty…maybe if I read the forum posts before medicating?

I think that one didn’t make it but he’s got a nice one going in soil now

I did find the link and hooked it up but I guess the OP here already lost that pineapple plant in this thread :frowning:

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Made me look, I re-read the link you gave…I thought someone else had a drip ring too close to the medium…I don’t recall their solution.

Maybe this was the post I was thinking of, still not sure, but the babies had been kept too wet and were transplanted…

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How do I look at the “links” posted by other users?

kabongster - I am using two large cylinder stones in the DWC with one air pump - I mean, if that’s not enough, then I don’t know :thinking:

Thank you again.


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@ChaoticGood, Here’s another chart I find easier to use.

I thing it’s important to get across pH is not static in nature. Wild plants acquire all levels pH during absorption of nutrients. Some chelated salts are more readily available as curtain pH while others need higher or lower.

This may in fact be me nit picking, but “Hydroponics”, as Google defines is:
the process of growing plants in sand, gravel, or liquid, with added nutrients but without soil.)

Aquaponics as defined by Google is:
a system of aquaculture in which the waste produced by farmed fish or other aquatic animals supplies nutrients for plants grown hydroponically, which in turn purify the water.)

…and requires a higher pH, that doesn’t coincide with either pH table, but is still Hydroponically grown.
(With respect to the soil-aquaponic growers, and dual root zoners).

While there is the ability to raise pH the conventional Hydroponics, most companies choose to formulate their premix nutrients brands with chelated salts designed for lower pH, sometime simply for the cost and regularity.


pigSquishy - I only used the cylinder stones because I saw a video suggesting those but I believe the flat disks might be better (simply based on visually seeing them, no real experience).

Dumme - thank you for the information. At the beginning of the grow, I imagined myself as some crazy chemist trying to get everything right. As time went on, I realized the pH fluctuations are good for the plant (and that I’m nowhere near a chemist :joy:).

Thank you for the chart, I love those.


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great chart dumme,i will bookmark this one!

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