I have multiple bud sites but it’s suppose to be one big bud (SOG) what am I doing wrong?

this is a 2x2x4 tent, 12/12

Looks like plant was allowed to grow naturally, or maybe even topped or trained.


yeah I topped it. I was starting a ScRog but I had too many plant in the 4x4 tent so I took these four out and decided to try to SOG these. what should I do now? they are already flowering

here a pic of the other tent

You’ll be fine letting this play out, but next time consider doing this:

Select a mother plant from seed or clone. Grow it vegetatively for a month or two.

Take enough uniform clones off it to fill your grow, assuming 1 plant per square foot and an 80% success rate. You can root them on a 12 hr light cycle, but 20hrs is safer, IMHO.

Once the clones root you’re going to strip all axial limb growth, leaving only the meristem and fan leaves. You should absolutely be on a 12/12 by this point.

You end up with a single central stem covered in buds. Some people will strip the lower bud sites pretty aggressively. Since all the plants are identical, you can vary your defoliation practices and see what works best for that particular plant, and repeat that on future runs from the same mother plant.


so I guess at this point I’m just growing four plants. is there anything I can do now to improve the growth

Ride them out.


What @dbrn32 and I said. Ride it out. Those bud sites are going to stack on calyxes as your plants mature.

I’d try to nip off any new axial limbs that form below the canopy, simply because these won’t be very large bud sites, and the plant will redirect that energy into the upper region. But I wouldn’t go wild with defoliation. I would leave the leaves on and only pull them when they shrivel. You’re letting the plant pull mobile nutrients from the spent fan leaves this way.


You guys are amazing. I always get great advise from y’all. i will keep you posted


I’m also truing to get the blue color. When should I start the cold shock?

I associate shocking a plant with a pre harvest routine. Lower temps overall during the last few weeks of flower often triggers the genetic disposition toward colors. No guarantee though. As to degree decrease, someone else will have to weigh in. Never much worried about it. However, I have been holding off on starting granddaddy purple for cooler winter conditions.

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What is this exactly?

some plants will change color under cooler conditions giving them those vibrant blues and purples

I know, but I’m asking what you mean by “cold shocking” them, specifically.

Increasing the disparity between daytime and nighttime temperatures can cause plants (generally) to produce more anthocyanins, because they’re used in transportation of sugar reserves. Essentially, you’re signaling to the plant that Winter Is Coming ™.

There are other reasons that anthocyanins become visible; importantly, they’re always there. It’s typically the death of the chloroplasts that reveal the otherwise hidden pigments.

I know a hydroponic grower who throws their pH super low in the last week, with the idea that they’ll lock out particular nutrients and cause an elevated anthocyanin response.

In my experience, I’ll see color shifts if the timing of temperature drops line up with the harvest window. It’s a nice surprise, but it doesn’t mean much to me. I care far more about effect, not bag appeal. Actually, the trait that causes natural anthocyanin elevation is more interesting to me as a breeding tool, since it’s a really obvious genetic marker.

TL&DR: I wouldn’t focus on stressing my plants out right now. Down the road, once you find a plant you really like, that’s a great point to vary the environment in order to hunt for a phenotypical expression that enhances the effect on you, IMHO.