Veg Lighting only in 4x4 - what light do I need?

My original setup has an ROI E680 in a 5x5, but think I want a tent for veg only. While I’m not looking to cheap out, I’m also not trying to throw money away.

Give me your top 2 suggestions for lights within a 4x4 veg tent

A single HLG 260 could cover a full 4x4’ tent in vegetative growth. Any of them would work, even the V1, which can save you some money upfront. They all achieve a pretty good efficiency.


@dbrn32 This person needs help with lights, and I heard you were the go to light person. @dbrn32

If you can build, 4 pack of 4000k qb 120’s on hlg-240h-c2100a would be kickass veg light probably $300 or less.


This build you’ve suggested might be something I could do. I’m looking to get a 4x4 Yieldlab (?) and would like to set it up for veg only and get another 4x4 for flowering in a few weeks after more research. I’ve had great success with germination of seeds from ILGM so I’ve gotta get 5 babies into their own space. Not sure yet about much else (soil versus hydroponic) but that I need to get a good light and tent. The parts for this were under 200$ but I’m wondering if there’s another forum here for build advice or is that a thing to ask supplier of boards? Thanks much

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If you need the boards quickly I would just get from horticulture lighting group, potentially available through them on Amazon. You can get knock offs from china, but not fast and typically have to order large quantity to see any noticable savings. Shipping cost to even get small box moving from there to here is substantial. When talking about 4 boards you maybe get get them for half price, which saves you about $50-60. Most of that eaten up with shipping, and if you reached out to supplier today you may see in about a month.

Once you get boards and driver, not too much else needed. Probably get some aluminum angle to build frame. Small spool of 18awg solid rated for at least 300v to wire boards, power cord, electrical connectors, and assembly hardware. Boards don’t need heatsinks, so is pretty much straightforward. Assemble frame, mount boards, and wire up.

I’ve probably assisted 20+ members with this type of build. If you type qb 120 or qb 132 build into search bar should be a few examples.


TY I’ll do that. Appreciate the extra details on that.

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I can certainly see you through it from start to finish

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It’s been a long time since I did anything like this but I’m looking forward to trying. The babies are in my Phototron now with a 75w supplemental led grow lamp/reflector. They are in sphagnum moss and if necessary I’ll hollow out the bottom of the solo cups and add another layer of moss and mycorrhizae to keep them happy until their room is ready.

I have some of the QB120 4x4 build hardware coming from Amazon. I ordered an 8’ power cord, the hookup wire, and the 2 port wago’s. A couple things I wasn’t sure of was the 3 pin waterproof barrel connector; is that for the power supply? Also on another thread you mentioned a type of machine bolt to AVOID I think.

I’m planning a trip to Home Depot for the angle stock, 1/4” eye bolts, the machine bolts nuts and washers (30 of each) and hopefully that 3 pin waterproof barrel connector. They had one on Amazon that was Aircraft quality (and it’s not the price that deterred me, just want to be sure I’m getting the right stuff) I also have a really good local electrical/lighting shop nearby that’s very good; perhaps I could fall back on them after the trip to Home Depot.

I’m trying to avoid bothering you needlessly.

Once I have everything I’ll go forward until I get in a jam. My sense is that mounting the boards is very important and I do not want to do that incorrectly, hence my question about the machine bolt heads.

I also want to say that you clearly explained the real problem areas of the build, but being so new to using this forum has made me very cautious. My sense is many members have a much better grasp of the tools available on this forum but I am not one of them. My only other experience was on the Audio-karma website when I got the bug to break my stereo out of mothballs a few years ago. I hope this makes some sense. I have at least learned that things like private messaging are impractical here and for good reason.

So TY for the help and I will be checking this thread to see if I’ve ordered anything you advise against.

Your clear instructions are much appreciated by this newb anyway.


It can be used to connect the power supply to the power cord. Isn’t neccessary though, you could use 3- of the 2 port wagos in place of the waterproof connector.

You need a 3 pin connector more or less. You can give some consideration to gland size, its usually listed. I think you need a 12mm to fit over cable on that driver. I can’t remember which driver, but I have had to turn large drill bit into the nut to open them up a little. I think that was for 320 watt driver though. If push comes to shove, I can get you links to the ones I have bought, they have all worked well outside of having to open up nut on a couple.

Not ringing a bell, but was probably saying not to use anything with a tapered head. Do you remember where it was so I can go look to be sure?

They aren’t that big of a deal to put together, so I’m sure you are more concerned than neccessary. That will work into your favor more than anything. I spend way more time measuring and cutting aluminum and assembling than anything else. Outside of having a faulty component, you will look back and realize it wasn’t that big of deal.

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Yes the tapered heads.
I don’t recall where but it was probably another 4x4 build thread or a qb120 search result here somewhere (also at your suggestion)
I’m a retired mailman that actually once worked as a C130 electrician (USMC-so maybe that bar was way too low lol) I agree on the other tasks involved-the grunt work is the hard part.
This whole enterprise started with the damned Phototron anyway. I’m ready to throw these babies (3 of the indica multi pack and 3 RLB gold in soil bags outside-they are about a month along now. My tent is delayed and my ph pen will not calibrate and now I’ve got issues with nutrients. (another forum)

I am a perfectionist is all. It’s often very hard for me to realize there are many very good SECOND choices available; it’s willfulness as well…

I’ll be fine if I just look at the other choices when plan a fails. TY for the clarifications.

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That’s the really helpful stuff; if I have a vague idea about anything about this project I can eventually recall enough electronic knowledge to grasp the stuff I’ve never done.
There’s a show I saw (I think) on TWC and the first time I saw segments shot in the cockpit of a newer C130, I was gobsmacked. All LCD displays, no gauges with transmitters behind the scenes doing the real work. OMG that told me how old I really was…

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For sure. I have probably built 60 led grow lights easy. When I try to help someone along my goal is to point more in a direction than give them a detailed list and pin point instruction. I can and will provide whatever is needed, but I don’t want to kill each builds personal touches. I use 1x1x.125 aluminum angle and rivet frames together pretty much always. But if have a bucket of 1/4-20 nuts and bolts, use them. If you wanna hack the end off extension cord in place of buying a power cord, all good by me. As long as I don’t see a potential safety issue I could care less.

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Love the humor mixed in with the reality.

I did note your position as moderator and am guessing you’re not doing this for the pay. I have done my share of “extra duty” in life and I admire that quality in folks. Not everyone may agree with me on that but again, I appreciate it.

I’m feeling real humble right now FWIW but at the same time I’m feeling grateful to have this group and this forum available to me.

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That is correct, we volunteer. There are some fringe benefits though, so some days very easy.

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I just put up a pic of my babies elsewhere here to get help on nutrient deficiency. I may have to move them outdoors just to save them. Without a working PH pen to get the nutrients right in the Phototron/sphagnum moss, I could kill them in short order. Plus there’s no way I knew all 6 would sprout-it’s my first attempt.

I’m gonna try to save these 6 and then focus on the light build. Once that’s done I’ll hopefully have the tent. I’ve got some GG auto flowers I think will work nicely in the Phototron; one at a time…

My boards aren’t shipping until after the 4th and no idea on the ship date for the 4x4 tent from Amazon.
Fools rush in where angels fear to tread…

I got to Home Depot and picked up the only aluminum stock they had left (3/4x1/8) but thanks to your initial description I recalled you SUGGESTED 1” might be easier to work with so I got the 3/4” stock. I Picked up machine bolts nuts washers 1/2” eye hooks and some barrel connectors that aren’t waterproof; not sure if they will work safely, the solderless type(not much stock in that department either)
I’m good except for the rest coming from Amazon.

On another subject, PH device suggestions are all over the forums and I’m at a loss. Highly recommended ones are either reasonably priced but sketchy on performance, or just plain expensive. I’m pretty sure I’ve got a decent pen but it’s bad.
Most confusing were the comments of some members that even pens not required to be left in storage solution should be. My pen says nothing in manufacturers instructions about that, just stresses replacing the cap after use.

It makes perfect sense to me on an electrical factoid basis but that issue is one or the other IMHO.
I’m not into doing lab tests really just want to check the PH. I’m seriously discouraged on that issue and I’ve read a LOT. I read a lot before buying the pen because I know how important that is for my starting point (hydroponics)
I appreciate your input on all of this.

“You can’t take the effect and make it the cause”

Jack White

“And now you know the rest of the story”

Paul Harvey

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I have apera ph 20 and apera sx 610. Both fair performing and reasonably priced imo. I thought the ph-20 was shot due to improper storage so I ordered the newer model. After 2 weeks of soaking in storage solution it worked fine and read dead nutz in ph7 calibration fluid. Coming from not reading at all, I thought was pretty good. The newer one is also about $50 meter, but has field replaceable tip available for about $30.

Both are recommended to be stored with tip in solution, and both seem to holding calibration since doing so. I mix pretty much the same solution every day, so it’s not hard to tell if they are off either. Makes spending more on a meter seem kinda silly to me.

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TY for this information. I’ve gotta get something reliable!

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