Upgrading grow room setup. Advice?

Hello everyone, I am currently trying to upgrade from a 4x4 600w setup to my shed which is 10x12x7 to two 1000w double ended bulbs. I will be using a ac unit, dehumidifier and supplemental Co2. Also my area can get up over 110 degrees during hot summers. My question is what would be the best way to set up my ventilation with the double ended tubes to keep it cooler without having to use as much AC? i have two 2x2 windows directly across from one another on the shed. Also any suggestions on great equipment to buy for lights and environmental controller and other equipment ? I am working with a couple of thousand dollars. Thank you

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First of all, welcome to ILGM forum @SirrNucci :person_raising_hand: :innocent: :v:

For the environnement control i’ll leave that to someone with more knowledge in that field :innocent:

For lights, LED’S will be the ideal choice considering the high temperature of your shed. You’ll need about 20 000 watts assuming that you are gone cover half of the area available and keeping in mind that you will need to circulate :wink::innocent:. Depend on your setting and lights budget, an honnest bet will be 10 × 2000 watts LED, and these will be a good choice


I cannot talk for them but I’m pretty sure that amazon could do you a package deal :wink::innocent:

Other model exist, I could provide links to you if you want other options (more or less expansive) :+1::v::innocent:

Hoping that you’ll find this helpful :innocent: :v:

thank you @Niala but I’m really only trying to have two lights double ended mh/hps lights. plus the shed has insulation that supposedly makes it 25-30 degrees cooler than outside but still i would like to know the best way to ventilate it out of the two windows

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You’re welcome :innocent:, I am sure someone else will step in and help you in those field :relaxed::+1: @MacGyverStoner @Aquaponic_Dumme @garrigan62 @Majiktoker @Hammer will be more than happy to help you when they gone a have a minute , I am sure :innocent::+1::ok_hand:

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Thank you !

Set up fans in front of each window, or one in front of the window and one on the floor, or one in the window and one tied to the roof or wall somehow

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You can go to your local box hardware store pick up a 6 inch booster fan that move 250 cfm and some 6 " metal round duct and elbow
So you pull pull air from above lights start your vent pipe right above light but high enough so when you adjust light you won’t need to adjust vent pipe
Run pipe towards window and put inline fan in about half way to window continue pipe to window cut 6 inch hole in a piece of wood or something that is cut to size So that fits in window opening power fan up .


Put the air conditioner on the Shady Side (that’s your intake side) vent out on the hot side

  • best wishes!

@Majiktoker @Paranorman oh okay yeah I so one sucking the bad air out on one window and sucking in new on the other plus a carbon filter and fan on the floor at all times to filter the air that’s already in there when the other fans aren’t on ?

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Sounds good to me but im sure you’ll need an inline fan for the filter, @Paranorman could probably answer that, sounds good to me though

Yes @Majiktoker that’s what I meant. Alright cool thanks

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@SirrNucci, my pleasure ill be around if you need any more help

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@SirrNucci Well it’s not quite that easy, you gotta do your math, figure out your footage × how much air you need to exchange over a certain period of time, ect. I’m sure one of the mentors could help you better figure that formula out

  • best of luck!
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Yup, if you need help doing some math you can @ me or get @Niala to help :slight_smile:


Also any suggestions on the environmental controller?

Not off hand others might

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@SirrNucci, I recommend air cooled fixtures filter the in coming air .to keep dust and bugs off the bulbs then vent them rite back out …in other words bring in the intake from the out side and vent rite back out . this will lower your air temp a lot . especially with 2 1000 watt set up do the same if using 600 watt’s .

Hammer .

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@SirrNucci Here’s how you calclate how much your exhaust cfm with a carbon filter as to have

Calculating By Room Volume
You will find many calculations on the web for sizing a fan for ventilating indoor gardens; however, what many of these calculations fail to take into consideration is the friction loss on carbon filters and increased temperatures from HID lights. So here’s my calculation method which you can use as a guide for sizing an exhaust fan for a growing area (keep in mind that this calculation will give you the lowest required CFM (Cubic feet of air per minute) required to ventilate the indoor garden.)

Step 1: Room Volume
First the volume of the room needs to be calculated. To calculate multiply length x width x height of growing area e.g. A room that is 8’ x 8’ x 8’ will have a volume of 512 cubic feet.

Step 2: CFM Required
Your extraction fan should be able to adequately exchange the air in an indoor garden once every three minutes. Therefore, 512 cubic feet / 3 minutes = 171 CFM. This will be the absolute minimum CFM for exchanging the air in an indoor garden.

Step 3: Additional factors
Unfortunately, the minimum CFM needed to ventilate a indoor garden is never quite that simple. Once the grower has calculated the minimum CFM required for their indoor garden the following additional factors need to be considered:

Number of HID lights — add 5% per air cooled light or 10-15% per non-air cooled light.

CO2: add 5% for rooms with CO2 enrichment

Filters: if a carbon filter is to be used with the exhaust system then add 20%

Ambient temperature: for hot climates (such as Southern California) add 25%, for hot and humid climates (such as Florida) add up to 40%.

An Example
In our 8’ x 8’ room we have 2 x 1000w air cooled lights, and we plan to use a carbon filter. We also plan to use CO2 in this room. The ambient temperature is 90 °F (32°C), however, we will be using air from another room that is air-conditioned. Here’s the minimum required CFM to ventilate room:

  1. Calculate the CFM required for room (see above.)

  2. Add 10% (for 2 air cooled lights.)

  3. Add 5% of original CFM calculation (For CO2.)

  4. Add 20% of original CFM calculation for Carbon Filter.

  5. Air is coming from air-conditioned room so no need to add any other percentages.

  6. CFM = (171 CFM) + (171CFM x 10%) + (171 CFM x 5%) + (171CFM x 20%) + ( 0 )= 231 CFM.

This is the absolute minimum CFM required to ventilate your room.

The next step might seem to match the closest fan to this CFM. However, for this example I’d choose a six inch fan with a CFM of around 400 or more, and a 6 inch carbon filter to match. The extra CFMs may seem a bit excessive (calculations on most indoor gardening websites would recommend a 4" fan and a 4" carbon filter) but it’s always better to over-spec since we need to compensate for air resistance in ducting too.

Also, as we are using a carbon filter we will need to match the fan with the filter so that the fan that will neatly fit onto the filter.

If all the variables are kept the same and we changed the room size from 8’ x 8’ to a 12’ x 12’ then the minimum required CFM would be 519 CFM.

The All-Important Inflow!

An intake port can be anything from a gap under the door to an open window - even a hole in the wall. The best place for an intake port is diagonally opposite from your exhaust fan; that way, air has to pass across the entire room - very efficient. You can put a piece of screen over the opening to keep insects and animals out, a piece of A/C filter to keep dust out, or a louvered shutter or backdraft damper that opens when the fan turns on and closes when it turns off. You can also use a motorized damper. This gets installed in-line with your ducting and is plugged into whatever device controls your exhaust fan. When your fan turns on, it allows air to pass. When your fan shuts off, it seals completely, preventing CO2, air, etc. from passing. You can get creative with these devices and use one fan to control two rooms, etc.

One additional note about intake ports - you will see much better results from your exhaust system if you install a second fan to create an active (as opposed to passive) intake system. Normally, when your exhaust fan sucks air out of your room, air is passively going to get sucked back into the room. By installing a second fan on the intake side, you will reduce the amount of negative pressure created in the indoor garden, thereby cutting down greatly on the amount of work the exhaust fan has to do and allowing much more air to pass through. If you’re not sure or you don’t want to spend the money, start out with just an exhaust fan. If it’s not performing as well as you thought it would, try adding an intake fan - you’ll smile when you see the difference!

So, you have 840 cubic meter (10×12×7) ; 840÷3= 280 cfm

2 HID lights air cooled add 5% ×2; 280×5%= 14 ×2= 28

Filter carbon add 20% ; 280×20%= 56

Hot outside environnement add 25% ; 280×25%= 70

Hot and humid outside environnement add 40% ; 280×40%= 112

So for hot climate ; 280+28+56+70= 434 cfm

For hot and humid climates ; 280+28+56+112= 476 cfm

So you’ll need a minimum of 434 cfm exhaust fan up to a 476 cfm exhaust fan.

Hoping that’s helping you @SirrNucci , your devoted fellow grower , Niala :innocent::v:

(Thanks for “tagging” me @Majiktoker)

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@Paranorman @Majiktoker @Niala @Countryboyjvd1971 @Hammer okay the dimensions of the shed are 12x10x7 and a half feet about and i will have a 4x4x6’7 tent and a 2x4x5 propagation most likely or use a 2x3x3 box I have made already so the rest of the space will go to flowering.

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Is that an update or a question cause if its a question im missing it lol