One month old in couple of days. The cotyledons were buried last week just left them on and put more soil in as instructed by some of you guys and brought up to the first leaves. Question is. Can I pinch they two leaves off. Look like they dying anyways. Or just leave them. Plant seems healthy enough and filling in I think considering I was worried about the stretching. As to date just been watering it. Just watered.
Thanx.
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You can remove them if you like, but I wouldn’t unless they turn sickly or yellow.
Unrelated, I’ve found that containers need even more water on raised decks. Am I seeing that correctly? There are water retention “crystals” that can amend a potting mix for better water capacity. Not great for seedlings, but might be useful if you move to a larger container.
Cheers.
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I usually give it 4-6 liters to run off. Then pretty much let it dry out. Not sure if I’m doing it right or not. 1 liter. Wait 5-10 minutes usually run off point is 5 liters. Don’t think I’ll be repotting.
Thanx
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A few drops of Dr. Bronner’s soap will help because it acts as a wetting agent.
It doesn’t seem like you’re letting it sit in water, and that’s good.
If it was me, and I wanted to go water-only until harvest, I’d go very big. Like 20-30 gallon fabric pot. You can approach it a few different ways though.
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I agree with @KeystoneCops. Especially if this is a photo! The plant will become rootbound and end up struggling to get enough water, it will also exhaust its nutrients and in order to keep it happy you will be watering and feeding and flushing and blah blah. A bigger reservoir of soil is never a bad thing with cannabis. Nice plant though… looks very happy.
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If I was going to go with a bigger pot. I’m guessing this would be it’s last pot. But won’t it just grow 6-8 ft tall. I’m really not too sure what to do now.id rather have it just fill in what’s there now. Maybe a little taller. Is that out of the question.
Thanx
I’m total beginner. Could you elaborate a little on the ways to go about this.
Thanx
Normally I’m not one to elaborate, but I’ll make an exception for you.
I would go with the final pot size. Like I said, 20-30 gallons. For massive pots, fabric is your best option. You might want to place it on a pallet or something to keep it off the deck. Even pressure treated lumber can rot if kept moist enough.
I don’t know what soil you started with. Let us know and we’ll advise you on amendments.
Your plant doesn’t need to get tall. It seems like it isn’t flowering yet. If it isn’t, then you can safely prune the main stalk just below one of the upper nodes (the joint on the stalk where leaves are and new branches come out at 45deg). That will form 2 tops, and encourage lower axial limbs to step up. You can continue to prune (commonly called topping) to create a plant that has a “bushy” morphology. You want to get any and all pruning done before the plant enter flowering.
You can continue manipulating the morphology of the plant once it starts flowering by using low-stress training. That amount to gently tying the highest limbs down. You can also “super-crop” but it might stress you out more than it will the plant. Once you start looking at tutorials the algorithms will probably lead you to extreme defoliation and other practices. I would stop at super-cropping, if you even go that far.
Open to any and all questions, but you seem to have the plant doing okay up to this point.
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So the smaller the pot. The higher it gets. The bigger the pot the fatter it gets. Do I have that right. One question at a time just so I can comprehend this.
Thanx
Promix with Mycoactive Soil.
Not exactly. The natural shape is mostly genetic. The overall size is genetics and environment.
A pot that is too small will stunt and/or stress a plant. There downsides to a pot that is larger than necessary, but they don’t tend to include harming the plant. A planter that’s too shallow relative to height might stress out the root system I suppose. A planter that’s too tall relative to width is prone to topple and kill plants. The pots we buy are usually well-proportioned to avoid stress and toppling.
Let’s talk about that Pro-mix. Are you adding anything to that other than water?
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Thanx for helping me out here. Looked at a lot of posts. Trying to get as much information as I can.
Only water added from beginning. Nothing else.
As for cutting the top. Do I cut it here with a pair of scissors or the most upper part. If I cut it that leaves just the stalk at the top. A pointed end. Correct.
Thanx for your help.
Oh one more thing. Any tips on getting this one out and repotted into 20 gallon pot.
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Let’s back up a step.
Pro-Mix is not a soil. It is actually soilless. There’s basically nothing in there for mature plants. This is a very easy mistake to make. The plant is still alive, so no real harm done.
I would hold off on the pruning, because I wouldn’t want to introduce any additional stress. The most important thing is to transfer the plant to a larger pot and provide food.
The next step is to acquire a 30 gallon fabric pot and decide whether to transition to true soil or continue using Pro-Mix but add a liquid nutrient line. It can wait a few days, but don’t delay too much.
The Pro-Mix route can be a little more money and rigid, but it’s formulaic. If you’re a person who likes procedure, maybe this is the best route. Soilless is really responsive to mistakes or corrections.
Soil, done properly, can be hands-off. It can be sustainable or even regenerative. The problem is that soil is a bit harder to adjust if things are off, and every g result lags behind action. The other thing is that there are many different ways to build a soil, but I feel like people run into trouble when they try to combine multiple methodologies. So if you want to go with soil, we should pick a plan that’s comprehensive yet doable for you.
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I’m going to sleep soon, but I’ll be back in the morning. There’s nothing that can’t wait until then. I see your question about transplanting, and we can cover that after you make a choice about soil/soilless and get the supplies.
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I don’t have a problem sticking with the promix and repotting to a 20-30 gallon. As of now it just seems to be working so why fix what’s not broke. Unless it’ll cause problems in a week or two.
Thanx for your tutorage and insight. Like I said I probably asking a lot of beginner questions. But truly a beginner.
Have good evening.
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I like what @KeystoneCops is saying. Here is another way to do this without liquid nutes, at least to get you to flowering anyways… because you are using promix, it would be totally ok if you bought some Fox Farms Ocean Forest at whichever store in you area carries it. That soil needs no inputs for at least 6 weeks. Im guessing, your plant will likely start flowering by then due to the increased dark hours. Once the fliwering begins we can help you get up to speed on nutrients and how to use them. This is going to give you some time to study up a bit on nutrients and ph and stuff. I think you really need that. Hiw do you feel about this approach @KeystoneCops ? Does this sound like a smart plan?
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I would say 30gal to big. Grew a monster 1lb plant last year in a 12gal plastic pot with holes drilled. Its was just big enough for no root bounding, plus when transplanted, my plant was already big.
15-20 would be big if you plan on a basic or minimal feed. Root mass is smaller without nutes, correct ph, and micro biology in soil.
If your serious bout this plant or future growing, Invest in an affordable nutrient line up, silica , digital ph meter, digital ppm meter, ph UP and ph DOWN, Growers Recharge and a jewlers loupe at least. Sounds like a lot but feel like those are the essentials to a good ourdoor grow.
Your plant looks great considering no nutes yet!!
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It’s absolutely a workable solution; however, I come back to my concern about combining multiple methodologies. Can we put a bookmark in the topic of “hybrid” nutrient provision? I’m interested and want to continue talking about it later, but not as part of this particular thread. Storm landed on Pro-mix w/ fertigation, and I want to focus on solving that.
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Read a couple of articles on the promix. Guess there’s different kinds. This is what I’m using in Canada. Not sure I can get the fox stuff here.
Thanx
Here’s a high level summary of how I’d advise you:
- Select a comprehensive bottled nutrient line in your price range.
- Source and purchase equipment (graduated cylinders, syringes, pH and possibly EC meters, notebook, misc)
- Find 3.8cft bale of Pro-Mix HP and appropriately sized fabric pot
- Read/discuss the entire fertigation plan for the remainder of the grow
- Transplant into larger, final container and begin feeding nutrients with waterings.
You’ll want to prepare for the expense. I’d prepare to spend $200 at a minimum. You can spend more for more durable/nicer equipment or by buying larger quantities of nutrients (which less per feeding but more up front).
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