Ph down doesn’t make your water acidic enough to kill good bacteria ,and I’m having really good success top dressing and watering with molasses and Epsom salt ( 1/4 Tbsp and 1/2 Tbsp I’m gonna double that for flower and do a full Tbsp of molasses last 2 weeks)
Here’s a secret ultimate pro-tip for ph adjustment. <—————-
Instead of using ph up or down, which jack your ppms way up. For ph down you can use earth juice xatalyst which will barely effect your ppm, add in beneficial enzymes and costs about the same. For ph up you can use most silicate products which raise ppm less and give you silica.
If you top dress make sure to use something that contains molasses which will help with mineralization and give your plant access to your top dressing quicker
I remember seeing it cheaper somewhere and it’s monster gardens carry the nectar series for half of what amazon charges (I hear athena is supposed to be a total unique organic supplement that’s supposed to be amazing)
Based on your comment about ruining soil, I’m assuming you’re trying to get off synthetic nutrients entirely. I’m not sure though, and neither are others.
It’s true that microbial life can make a lot of nutrients plant-available out of rocks and sand, but you can also mix dry inputs into your soil (or soilless.) Many growers have had success with large containers with concentric zones of hotter and hotter soil.
IMO, soil is going to involve more trial and error than soilless with synthetic nutrients. It might be worth it to invest in a premium product like Build A Soil blends.
Edit: Unless my water was exceptionally base or acidic, I wouldn’t worry about pH. The buffering capacity of soil is supposed to be one of the big advantages.
Unfortunately it has organics in it and thus I can’t use it in autopot lines/reservoir.
I’ve been using chemgro for 3 years almost and going to start Jack’s this winter side by side I think… Well I have 5lb of it soo