Transplant Root Bound 2 Month Old Plant

I have had this plant in a 1 gallon pot for over 60 days and I fear it could be root bound. Lower leaves are turning yellow and this is moving up. I cut a small window in the side of the pot (1/3rd way from top) and it is bristling with small roots. Is it advisable to transplant to a larger pot? I was just about to force flower it but now don’t know which direction to take. Advice would sincerely be appreciated.

Transplanting will always help. I go from a one gallon liner to a five gallon, but then I have a really long season in Hawaii.
At least carefully pop them out of the one gallon pots and move up to two gallon ones. If there is a lot of root development, it will probably pop out like a big plug.
Check to see if the tap root is twisted or knotted. That’s the biggest concern. If so, gently try to loosen if from the root ball and make sure the new pot is deep enough so there is fresh soil for it to grow into.
All this may delay your flowering a week or so bit it will give the plant more vigor for a bigger harvest in the end.

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Yes I agree with sir Charles, transplant it ASAP, that’s too small a pot, only I wouldn’t use a two gal., I’d use at least a three

I think back to some bonsai lessons and have to wonder, if the girl is root bound, can you do a little root pruning?

I know pruning the roots leads to more root branching. Yet, I also understand that there is a difference goal being sought after. The tap root is essentially just for support anyway.

Was just curious as I may have to deal with something like this when I move this year. Unfortunately, I will be around the peak of veg when I have to relocate them.

In your Bonsai course, you should have covered the fact that you root prune to keep the trees tiny. The object there is to keep a balance between the top growth and the root growth.
With Cannabis, the goal is to develop the largest plant and heaviest yield possible, so root pruning would ordinarily be contra-indicated. In fact, when I repot, I ordinarily sink the plant a few inches deeper into the new pot to get new roots growing from what used to be exposed stem.
The exception to the rule is a severely pot bound plant whose roots are strangling the plant itself. This often can happen when using round pots like most of us do. At that point, it’s a judgment call to decide if you want to leave it alone and hope that the roots spread out of the ball into the fresh soil or whether you want to judiciously snip roots and loosen the ball up to help it along. Only the grower can make that choice.
To prevent this from happening either, A) repot on a regular schedule, B) try using square pots which are less apt to have roots knotting up, C) try using fabric pots which apparently are good at preventing this or the most expensive option is D) Buy the new polyethelene air-prune pots. These look like a lattice work of black “V” shaped mesh. As the roots grow out of the soil, they naturally dry up and force the plant to grow more feeder roots into the soil. I have heard great reports about them but a 5 Gallon pot made this way costs over $15 USD. Another advantage is with almost unlimited drainage holes, your plants will never become sodden. I hope to try them next Spring and will report on my grow then.

If this was helpful, please “Like” my response. Thanks!

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I already knew that very similar to what I do, but great information my friend

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Perfect, Great info @Sir_Charles_Kane and I gave you the like…lol
Will

The yield was the different goal I was speaking of. I sometimes forget that I’m not the only one missing information that others have, so I didn’t elaborate. Also I try hard not to be long winded here. I’m told that happens a lot!

My comment was directed more at the tap root itself being mainly the plants anchor. Granted, our feeding roots branch from this anchor, but it had been mentioned of the tap root being bound as well.

Helpful? Yes you were. Helped me wanna kick my own ass for not buying a couple square pots I was looking at yesterday! Lol

I didn’t know they can help avoid getting bound up. I wonder why, but this isn’t the thread for that.

With those air prune pots, as the feeders reach the edge and die back, wouldn’t lead to a solid root in the end? Or is the grow cycle short enough that it’s not an issue?

Getting sidetracked again…

Thanks for your response.

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The orchard nursery business has been using air pruning for over a decade now. The root balls have been really impressive. When the plant is placed in its final home, the roots just explode out of the ball in all directions. My thought though is not to place these pots directly on the ground. Grubs and nematodes can migrate into the pot and that aggressive tap root can (and will) try to grow thru the bottom of the pot directly into the soil.
You are right that the tap roots job is to stabilize the plant. I’m just sensitive to it since I grow tall sativa hybrids in a windy location. It always seems that the peak of the bloom season coincides with the start of the windy season in Hawaii. So I’m always playing with different ways to prevent the plants from tumbling into one another.

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I agree with the placement of the pot directly on the ground. I keep mine in pots that I now understand are just too small.

I was doing that for mobility reasons, but always ended up with the tap root in the ground. Fortunately I never had a need to move them once that happened, but it has caused me to hunt down some bigger pots.

I hunt them for financial reasons. I know they’re easy to find and purchase, but money is a major issue for me. When a poor man wants a good cut of meat, he hunts it down instead of going to the store for the fillet mignon!

I’ll also be placing the pots on cinder blocks, both for drainage and also as termite protection. I hear they will only search 6" above ground for food sources. Not sure if that’s true, but it’s not going to hurt anything for me to elevate them the 8" . Actually it gives me room for a catch pan to check run off Ph. Never checked that in previous grows.

Thanks all.

If you are on a budget, a heavy plastic tarp like they sell to painters will form a barrier between the pots and the soil. Concrete blocks add up quickly. Before laying it down, mix up a 20-25% bleach solution in a five gallon bucket and drench the underlying soil. This will kill nematodes and termites. By the time you remove the drop cloth at the end of the grow, the grass will be white from lack of sun but will actually green up and start growing again within a few weeks.

While I am talking about five gallon buckets, that was my first solution for cheap big pots. Home Depot or Lowes sells them for $3-4 dollars instead of over $10 for the black plastic ones. They are stronger than regular pots and have their own handle. Just drill holes in the bottom and along the lower outside rim of the pot for drainage. I usually use a 1" bit but anything over ½" will do. It works so well that I reused them for three years before the UV finally made them too brittle to be safe.

I am @otkkane on MassRoots.com if you ever need to chat. Good growing!

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Thank you.

The blocks were left overs from job sites. Being a drywall hanger, by the time I got to the job, no one cared about the block anymore so…

The info about treating the ground will definitely come in handy later.

I really enjoy this place!