I can grow the plant in veg like no bodies business, but every time I switch to flower everything goes to hell. PH drops like a rock and can never recover to get anything meaningful.
Sounds like my last grow or harvest and that’s putting it mildly.
Could be any number of things like the switching of lights, switching nutrients.
I believe it to be switching over to ;following nutrients.
I am only using half of what they say to use and so far so good…
I also switched nutrients…now using PH Perfect from Advance Nutrients on Amazon.
B Safe
Will
Are you checking the PH off the water AFTER you add nutes to it?
Do you have the necessary tools to do a proper healthy grow?
You must inform us as to your grow methods. There is no way to advise you with the little info you gave.
inducing the flower photo period should not have anything to do with PH dropping, or anything else; Really.
Been at it for under 2 years. I’ve tried soiless Promix mediums and have similar outcomes. I’m using a potting soil from a local nursery. I have the 2 plants under a 150 watt hps lamp each. The room/closet I built measures 3’x4’. I have a 190 cfm fan pulling out heat as well the eventual smell of trichomes if the possibilty exists when I actually get harvest actual flowers. I have a small tower fan blowing a little extra air around the closet. I PH test every gallon of water at 6.8-7 with a digital meter. I’m using 5 gallon home depot buckets. I’ve put mycho’s in both pots at the start before transplanting into the bigger pots/buckets. I feed according to the instruction listed on the package. I’m using Doggett & Simpsons 3 step system. I’m thinking I’m over feeding when they flip the salts built up from the step 2 veg feedings when they are flipped they go straight downhill because of the PH drop. I’m thinking either bigger pots/buckets or lower the feedings they’re getting to keep the salt production down along with a little lime? I just started 2 seedlings roughly 2 weeks old, so if you want pics I can provide. Any other questions please don’t hesitate to ask.
Your PH for one is out of range you PH Your water after adding nutrients and that should be 6.0 no higher than 6.5
It sounds like if lem not reading this wrong, but you stated you PH the water to 6.8 to 7.0. Right there you are already out of range and then you add nutrients to the water adding injure to insult.
That’s where you are making your mistakes.
P H Water only after adding nutrients to around 6.0 or 6.5 I believe this will help solve your problems.
That’s why you have had the same outcome over the last two years.
For even better help fill out this support and MacH and Latewood will have a better way of helping you out.
http://ilgmforum.com/t/fill-out-a-support-ticket/1458/17
B Safe
Will
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I agree with Will on this one. PH should be at 6.5
I like the idea of the Support Ti8cket also. A lot of what you wrote did not make sense to me, and I never heard of the Nutrients you are using. You did not give us an N-P-K rating Of the local soil you are using.
You should start plants is a starter mix. after 2-3 weeks place them in a 1 gallon pot. Veg for a month-6 weeks, and transplant into a 3 gallon pot. There is no need to waste all the soil to fill a 5 gallon pot until you can finish a successful grow inn a 3 gallon pot.
iI do not know what flipped means?
Later lw
Strain; Fem White Widow from ILGM.
Soil in pots: Soil or a potting soil from a local nursery
System type? 5 gallon buckets/nursery pots
PH of runoff or solution in reservoir? 4.5-5
What is strength of nutrient mix? Full strength according to instructions on package. Doggett & Simpson 3 step system providing the macro and micro nutrients. Also, I add myco’s with my soil mix before placing the plant in the pot.
Indoor or Outdoor? Indoor. Closet 3’x4’x7’
Light system, size? 2-150 watt HPS.
Temps; Day-85 Night-75
Humidity; Day-50-55, Night-55-60
Ventilation system; Yes, 190cfm fan to draw out heat and smell with the carbon filter. Plus a tower fan to move the air around.
AC- Yes during hot summer months. Humidifier-No. De-humidifier-No
Co2- No, but am looking down the road to getting the sniffer,tank, and 120 volt regulator to introduce the gas when it gets below 1500ppm.
I thought I had given these statistics but nonetheless here it is.
I clearly understand I need to keep the PH stable but I’m thinking I’m feeding to much during veg leaving the added salts to bring down the PH levels. I’ve only seen people either flush the crap out of the plant or add lime. For example when I decide to change the photo period to 12/12 I would then flush all of the prior built-up salts to stabilize the PH. I thought PH should be 6.5-7.0 with soil applications.
Also, I put nutes in first then PH the water accordingly.
Lakewood, I believe when he mentioned " Flipped" he was referring to the change over from vegging nutrients to flower nutrients.
Will
I am only going to comment on nutrient change over from vegging to flower.
One I never flush my plants when changing to flower.
When I start my plants on nutrients from seedlings to flower I always start at 1/4 of recommended dosage. I believe this gives the plant time to adjust.
Different strains can adjust better than others and so not knowing what the plant or strain I’m growing can tolerate I start it off at 1/4 and increase wash feeding. I do the same when changing from vegging nutrients to flower. Take away 1/4 Grow add 1/4 Flower and keep subtracting and adding in till your at 100% flower nutrient.
I hope this makes sense.
B Safe
Will
I filled out the “ticket” in prior reply yesterday. The small amounts of nutrient make the most sense of all because I think that’s what’s been causing the drop. Straight water PH’d properly would also keep the plant from creating high salt content. I can’t wait to grow outdoors.
That’s correct and growing outside is much different than inside
Will