Too many nutes? Leave edges are burning & curling


#1

Hey all,

Please take a look at these photos and let me know what’s going on. Not all the leaves are like this, but it seems like more are looking like this each feeding.

Am I feeding the plant too much nutes? The Blueberry plant has been in flower now for 44 days.


#2

Are you sure it’s not normal degradation of the canopy as flowering progresses? How much of the plant is affected?

May as well do the Support Ticket boogie.

COPY/PASTE: This “Support Ticket” into your forum post.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so = NA

Strain; Type, Bag seed, or NA

Soil in pots, Hydroponic, or Coco?

System type?

PH of runoff or solution in reservoir?

What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS

Indoor or Outdoor

Light system, size?
Temps; Day, Night

Humidity; Day, Night
Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,

Co2; Yes, No
Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer. Feel free to elaborate, but short, to the point questions and facts will help us help you smile


#3

I suspect your correct with nutrients
And as @Myfriendis410 stated a support ticket would be best way to approach this situation
Ill add this a flush may be needed it possible your experiencing a nutrient build up in soil
What tyoe of nutrients are you using ?


#4

Strain; Blueberry

Soil in pots. 10gal, FFOF

System type? ???

PH of runoff or solution in reservoir? Ph 6.5. Never tested runoff.

What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS. I’m 44 days into flower and I’m following the FF schedule.

Indoor or Outdoor: Indoor, 4x4x7 tent.

Light system, size? 3x3 led cob, 100 watt each running at about 70%.

Temps; Day: 72-74F, Night: 68F.

Humidity; Day: 45%, Night: 55%

Ventilation system; 6" exhaust.

AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier: As it’s nice and cool outside I’m currently using a window fan with a thermostat to keep the grow room at approximately 68F.

Co2; No


#5

@Myfriendis410, @Countryboyjvd1971: I’ve never done a flush before and to be honest I’m not looking forward to it because of all the water that’s needed. 10 gal pot * 3 = 30 gals of RO water. It will take me about 20 hours to “make” the water. I don’t even have the equipment to store that much water… :disappointed_relieved:


#6

Unfortunately the fox farms nutrients build up salts in soil which will cause a lock out
They even build the flush into feeding schedule
Here a copy of the schedule

Weeks 4-5 , 7-8 and 10-11
If you use the sledgehammer you’ll require less water
Could you store water i 5 gal buckets you need a bunch tho
@HappyCamper


#7

With the FFOF soil I didn’t need to use nutes up until a few weeks ago. Do you think there was salt building up when the plant was using the nutes in the soil?

I only have 5 1 gallon milk jugs and a single 5 gallon jug. If i do need to flush, maybe I’ll purchase 2 more 5 gallon jugs… That will give me 20 gallons in total.


#8

What week did you start feeding
Hold off on flushing
I think you should do a slurry test
And get a good reading of thae soil ph it may be a ph issue your dealing with


#9

I’ll have to wait until I’m home to check my log.

I’ve done some searching and it looks like the problem my be heat stress related. I measure my temp in the shade right on top of the SCROG. The plant/buds are now 4 or 5 inches above the netting. Maybe I need to turn down the lights a bit. When I measure the intensity of the light with an Android app, it reads 45,000 lumens at the tops of the buds.


#10

Hummm
What tuoe of lights you using
That can definitely be a issue


#11

While you guys are working on the nute situation, I may be able to help with lights.

You have temps at 72-74, is that at canopy level? Also, what is distance from your cobs to the top of your buds? And where on the plants are you seeing the leaves like this?


#12

Look like its in a scrog screen @dbrn32


#13

Ya, that’s going to be a little more difficult to decipher. But the more info the better. He’ll have the most intense light towards center of the screen, where the most light layering is going to happen. If temp at canopy level isn’t any higher than 74, I believe he would be more likely to just bleach them. Which will generally start at closest points to lights. If that temp is under canopy level, then potential is better for this being light/heat damage.

The light definitely has enough ppfd to be dimmed and/or raised beyond what is normal for most. But I’d hate to recommend doing so if that’s not the case. It’s also possible to have an issue like you suggested, or maybe even being under fed due to the amount of light intensity.


#14

@Countryboyjvd1971, @dbrn32 - Thanks for the comments. I’m home now and will attempt to answer your questions…

  • The lights are 11" above the top of the highest bud
  • I started with nutes on day 14 of flower. I’m now at day 44. I follow a FWFWFW schedule. Twice I added the nutes at 50% because I was afraid I was over fertilizing them.
  • As seen in the photo below, I placed the thermometer on the top of the SCROG net. I have it in the white box placed upside down. I think this gives a truer reading of the actual temp at the height in the tent. It’s basically been placed in the shade.
  • I’m seeing the curling of the edges at the top of the canopy, not underneath.

PLEASE post any more questions and I’ll try to answer them ASAP…

In the following image you can see to two back rows of the LED/COBs as well as the height of the buds above the net and the distance between the top of the buds and the lights:

A general photo of the plant and the SCROG net:


#15

That could very well be from lights. Your method seems logical, but it’s blocked from receiving direct impact of lights. 11” sounds pretty low for the amount of light you have. I would expect you to be more around 18”. From average height top. Possibly still dimmed.

I would raise light and keep same intensity. Try to maintain that distance, and if you start to see it react in positive way you can slowly start to try and increase power via dimmer.


#16

Hi @dbrn32,

I’ll raise those lights to 18" right now. I’ll increase the brightness to maintain the ~45,000 lumens.

Thanks for the advice…


#17

Personally, I would give them some time to see if/how they recover. You’re probably stuck with the coloring, but the overall leaf condition should improve some. I’m pretty confident that’s at least part of what’s happening, but on the chance there is something else going on I’d like to be able to see it. Raising lights then increasing intensity is kind of counter productive is all.

I would suggest raising lights and then taking a measurement. Once we can establish improvements, I would split the difference between where your meter measures at 18” and where you measure now.

Do you mind if I ask where you came up with the 45,000 lumens you’re targeting?


#18

@HappyCamper it looks like it’s at the fringe of light bleaching. I really think @dbrn32 is correct. Here’s what my light bleaching looks like:


#19

Do 2/3 of your flush with ph’d tap water and finish with ph’d R/O. FF does call for flushes so you’re due.


#20

I figured the plant in general would receive approximately the same amount of light, but there wouldn’t be any hot spots if they were raised.

I’m using the Android App named “Lux Light”. Another forum member with a similar LED/COB set up was using the app, so I thought I’d give it a try. It at least gives a user/grower a relative point to adjust from. The other grower stated that they were using the 45,000 lumens. I know that different phones/manufacturers would display different results, but like I said, it was a starting point.

The lights are now off for the evening, but I’ll tone them down to ~35,000 tomorrow morning and leave them at that setting for a week to see how it goes. At 44 days into flower, I don’t have many more weeks to go until harvest. At this point I just want to cruise to the finish line… :slight_smile: