This is why you need veg lights

Yeah it would make them have to actually manufacture quality lighting and thus cost more…

One last question until I test my water and soil friday.
How should I use the light?
1 plant only?
Will it do 2?
How far away do you think?
I’ve had them about 20 inches away I figured with the 90* lense it should be a little more concentrated then the par readouts they were showing but that’s just a Geuss because the 180 spread the light so much…

You can grow as many plants as you want. You will just have to keep plant size in mind, your effective flowering footprint is probably about 2’x2’. For most that is one plant. But if you were to apply a sea of green method it could be several plants. A tighter beam will give you greater intensity. I’m not familiar with how that style of light will behave with the lens, just watch your plants and adjust accordingly.

Thanks man, really thank you so much.
To learn what I could and apply it to this specific light would take me so much time. Your such a wealth of knowledge. You must see so many of the same questions time and time again.
I’m learning alot from you and hopefully can help give back some of the knowledge to help lighten your work load.

So seed to flower 4x2 option A or option B? Correct me if I’m wrong but A in 3000k

Or
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/all/products/320w-xl-qb324-led-kit

They’re both fine. You could look at the xl 260 kit for that space too. I would get 3000k or 3500k, either is fine. Whatever is cheaper and available.

Just got in after 24 days away, so exited I can’t contain myself and Ohh the auto cheese cbd smells good even though it’s tiny it’s my tiny little monster and I love it haha.

Looks like I have an issue with it though not sure what it is, sitting down for dinner before I calibrate my PH meter and TDS then I’ll update.
If anyone knows why my plants a little upset please let me know otherwise I need to study this chart, is it a deficiencie or is my light to close and that’s why the leaves are taco/ starting to bleach? @dbrn32 @MattyBear @PurpNGold74


Also here is the photo, I just put it under a 200w cfl so let’s see how it does

1 Like

Is the plant with the curling leaves near a heater? Or positioned closest to the light? Doesn’t look like the other leaves are doing it, and it’s not on the top leaves from what I can see, so it’s not light burn IMO

Negative no heater
It’s not closest, the 2 plants are equal distance…

@garrigan62 you said I could ask if I had questions so Here it is, what’s with my plant :cry:

@Nicky

To me it looks like > Nitrogen-Toxcicity

Notice the last two pic you posted. My pic and your pic are very similar and so that is why I say it’s

1134Nitrogen-Toxcicity-3

Nitrogen Toxicity

Nitrogen toxicity - too much nitrogen - Cannabis growing problemProblem:
Dark green leaves, shiny leaves,
clawing, weak stems, and overall slow growth. Marijuana leaves that are
nitrogen toxic often get “The Claw”
or talon-like leaves that are bent at the ends. They also do an odd curving
(or cupping) that is often
mistaken for overwatering, but is unique to nitrogen toxicity. You can see a
“clawing” leaf pictured to
the right and more pictures below (click each picture for a close-up).

Leaves that turn into claws often start turning yellow and dying if the
nitrogen toxicity is not treated,
much like a nitrogen deficiency, only the leaves will continue to get
more and more clawed. Leaves
eventually turn yellow or brown and fall off. You can tell if yellowing
is caused by too much nitrogen
because the rest of the plant will be dark green, and the yellowing leaves
will turn into claws first.

The majority of times that growers encounter problems with nitrogen, it’s from
giving too much of it to
their plants.

Many new growers accidentally give their plants give too much Nitrogen,
especially in the flowering stage.
This results in dark, shiny, clawing leaves.

A Nitrogen toxicity can also cause certain leaves to turn yellow, but other
than that it looks nothing
like a cannabis nitrogen deficiency?

Your plant needs a lot of nitrogen in the vegetative stage, and it’s generally
hard to give too much as
long as you’re not going completely overboard with nutrients. Nitrogen is a
big part of what makes leaves
green, and is incredibly important to the process of photosynthesis (making energy from light).

But cannabis plants need relatively low levels of Nitrogen in the second
half of the flowering/budding
stage. While your plants still need N (nitrogen) during flowering, too
much N at this stage will prevent
your plants from forming buds properly, resulting in lower yields, less
potency and possibly inferior buds.

This is why it’s important to avoid any type of “time-release” nutrients or
soil (for example, standard
Miracle-Gro soil) as they will keep giving your plant a lot of N even after
its started flowering.

When it comes to nitrogen, this is what your plant needs:

Vegetative Stage - higher levels of Nitrogen (pretty much any plant food will do)

Most complete plant foods that you get at a gardening store contain high levels of nitrogen (N).
These nutrient systems tend to work well in the vegetative stage.

Some examples of cannabis-friendly one-part Vegetative nutrient systems…

Dyna-Gro “Foliage Pro”

General Hydroponics “FloraNova Grow”

Pretty much any complete plant food

Flowering Stage - lower levels of Nitrogen (use “Bloom” or Cactus nutrients)

It’s extra important to find a nutrient system with lower levels of nitrogen for the last part
of your plant’s life. Many “Bloom” or “Flowering” style base nutrients are just the ticket.

Some examples of good one-part Flowering nutrient systems…

Dyna-Gro “Bloom”

General Hydroponics “FloraNova Bloom”

If you can’t order online and can’t find a good one-part base Bloom formula locally, you do have
other choices. Though not an ideal choice, most Cactus plant foods will contain good nutrient
ratios for growing cannabis during the budding stage. So in a pinch, you can use the cactus
nutrients that can be found at most gardening stores.

Different strains react differently to nitrogen toxicity. Some plants get dark green leaves with
no clawing. Some strains will get leaves that do the weird 90 degree bend at the tips, while other
strains or individual plants start curling like claws and then turn yellow / brown and fall off
like a deficiency. Yet these are all signs of too much nitrogen.

Signs of Nitrogen Toxicity

This marijuana plants has been fed too much nitrogenDark green leaves and foliage

Leaf tips may turn down, without signs of overwatering.

You may notice yellowing on the affected leaves or other signs of nutrient deficiencies as time goes on

Nitrogen toxicity is often but not always accompanied by nutrient burn

The Claw often seems random, affecting leaves here and there

Heat and pH problems will make the clawing worse, as they stress out the plant and lower her defenses,
and cause her to drink more water (and uptake more N)

As time goes on, the claw leaves will eventually start turning yellow, getting spots, and dying

This marijuana plants has been fed too much nitrogen

Too much nitrogen causes marijuana leaves to curl down like talonsDark green leaves are a sign of
nitrogen toxicity

Image

This cannabis seedling is dark because it was underwatered in a “hot” soil mix (too much Nitrogen),
but after watering the plant as normal for a week or two, the plant started growing vigorously

Underwatered in a "hot’ (nutrient rich) starting mix led to this plant developing a nitrogen toxicity

Solution: Reduce the Nitrogen your plant is getting!

Reduce the amount of nitrogen that is being fed to the plants. If you are feeding extra nutrients, cut
down that amount. If you are in the flowering / budding stage, make sure you’re using a formula that’s
specifically meant for flowering, or else it could have too much nitrogen.

If you are not feeding extra nutrients, you may have “hot” soil that has been giving your plants extra
nutrients. In that case, flush your plants with filtered, pH’ed water to help clear out the extra nitrogen.

Effected leaves likely won’t recover, but you should see the problem halt with no new leaves being affected.

Wait! I’m not sure if it’s Nitrogen toxicity!

Nitrogen toxicity in marijuana makes clawed leaves that look like talons Ok, you ruled out overwatering,
now what?

When I first got started growing, everyone kept telling me that this particular kind of leaf clawing
was caused by under or overwatering my plants, pH problems, or heat problems.

Yet in my case, I knew that it wasn’t over or under watering (I was growing in hydro, where roots
grow directly in water and air stones are constantly adding oxygen). I knew it wasn’t pH (my reservoir
water had the right pH) and I knew it wasn’t heat since the grow area was slightly cooler than room temperature.

So then what was really causing my claw leaves?

It’s understandable that other growers were mistaken. It is true that many stresses will make any

Plus overwatering can cause a similar kind of leaf clawing (learn more below). And if you do have
nitrogen toxicity, than heat or pH problems will make the problem much worse.

Now, you may or may not know that marijuana (or any plant) needs an element known as “Nitrogen” to grow.

In fact, nitrogen is one of the 3 nutrients that are included in almost every kind of plant food.

When looking at plant nutrients, you’ll almost always see 3 numbers listed, like 3-12-6 or 5-10-5.
These numbers represent the ratio of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K) contained in
the bottle. Just about all plant life on Earth needs these 3 elements to grow.

See the nutrient numbers listed on the front?

The very first number, “3” in the case of the picture to the right, always displays the proportion
of nitrogen in this nutrient bottle compared to the other 2 nutrients (Phosphorus and Potassium
respectively).

The reason nitrogen is in all plant nutrient formulations is because it’s vital to plant processes.

For marijuana plants, when they don’t get enough nitrogen, the bottom leaves start turning yellow
and dying. Left unchecked, a nitrogen deficiency can cause the whole plant to eventually die.

However, this time we’re the dealing with the opposite problem: nitrogen toxicity, or too much nitrogen.

Why You Should Treat And Prevent Nitrogen Toxicity

Marijuana plants that get too much Nitrogen in the vegetative stage don’t grow as vigorously.

Too much nitrogen is especially harmful in the flowering stage, because this will cause your plant
to produce much smaller buds.

If you react quickly and reduce your nitrogen levels at the first sign of toxicity, your plant
will quickly recover.

Note: Some strains with the word “Claw” in the name tend to do The Claw more easily than others.

Problems with excess nitrogen are not common in the wild; it’s a lot more common to see nitrogen
toxicity on indoor plants, especially when overzealous growers go overboard with nutrients.

Occasionally you’ll come across a strain or particular plant that likes lower levels of nutrients,
and when this happens, it’s important to realize the plant is showing signs of toxicity, even if all
the other plants in your garden seem fine.

One of the most common signs off too-many-nutrients is “nutrient burn,” or when the tips of your
leaf appear brown or burned. Yet there are specific signals your plant will display when she’s
getting too much nitrogen…

Recap: How You Know You Have a Nitrogen Toxicity

Dark green leaves and foliage

Leaf tips turn down, without signs of overwatering.

You may notice yellowing on the affected leaves or other signs of nutrient deficiencies as time goes on

Nitrogen toxicity is often but not always accompanied by nutrient burn

The Claw often seems random, affecting leaves here and there

Heat and pH problems will make the clawing worse, as they stress out the plant and lower her
defenses, and cause her to drink more water (and uptake more N)

As time goes on, the claw leaves will eventually start turning yellow, getting spots, and dying

Light and “The Claw”

The distance between the leaves to the lights or irregular light patterns from reflectors often
seem to affect the condition, which is why many growers believe that light is somehow causing
the problem.

You may notice this clawing first appears on dark green leaves that aren’t getting enough light
(they aren’t able to use up all their nitrogen and become nitrogen toxic).

The Claw in the Flowering Stage

If you use vegetative plant nutrients during the flowering stage, then they’ll deliver too much nitrogen.
This is why you need to get special nutrients meant for the blooming / flowering stage. You’ll notice
that flowering nutrients always contain a smaller percentage of nitrogen (the first number) compared to
nutrients for the vegetative stage. Learn more about marijuana nutrients here.

Many growers mistakenly keep raising nutrient levels or adding additional nitrogen when they see yellow
leaves in the flowering stage, not realizing that it’s natural for plant leaves to start yellowing as
harvest approaches. Adding too much nitrogen in the flowering stage can cause nitrogen toxicity even
when you can see yellow lower leaves. Nitrogen toxicity in flowering results in smaller yields and
airy cannabis buds, so make sure to watch out!

Nitrogen toxic sativa budsNitrogen toxicity in flowering will reduce bud sizeNitrogen toxic
marijuana plant in flowering leaves curl down Nitrogen toxicity - too much nitrogen - Cannabis
growing problem

Note: During the last few weeks before harvest, marijuana plants starts pulling all the remaining
nitrogen from her leaves as part of the bud-making process. This causes yellowing leaves starting
towards the bottom of the plant. This is part of the natural flowering process and you don’t need
to fight it. You may notice that marijuana leaves are yellowing in almost all pictures of marijuana
plants with big buds that are close to harvest. You tend to get smaller yields at harvest from
nitrogen-toxic plants with dark green leaves.

It’s Normal For Marijuana Leaves To Start Turning Yellow As Harvest Time Approaches, Don’t Keep
Adding More Nitrogen!

Marijuana plant ready for harvest, notice the yellowing leavess, which is a natural part of the
ripening processIt’s common for leaves to turn yellow towards the end of the flowering stage,
no need to fight it!

I know a lot of marijuana plant problems can look similar, but now that you’re armed with the
right information, you’ll know exactly what to do if you see Nitrogen Toxicity affecting your
marijuana plants.

Nitrogen toxicity - Dark, curled, claw or talon leaves

Leaf Color:

Edges Appear Brown or Burnt

Yellow Leaves - Lower, older leaves

Dark or Purple Leaves

Brown or Dark Spots

Leaf Symptoms:

Upper Leaves / Newer Growth Affected

Lower Leaves / Older Growth Affected

All Leaves Seem Affected

Leaf Edges Appear Burnt

Leaf Tips Appear Burnt

Spots

Leaves Curl Under

Wilting / Drooping

Plant Symptoms:

Weak Stems

Leaves Curl Under

Plant Wilting / Drooping

Other Symptoms:

Buds Not Fattening

1 Like

Wow that’s alot of info!
Okay noted, it must be the promix / miracle grow potting soils I used as one plant got pro mix one got miracle grow before I knew that this was a bad idea.
I’ll make a trip to my local store today and get some super soil & a PH meter that works.

Sorry about all that info. But I believe that everyone should get all the info you need on a certain issue not just a little here and there B. S You need all the facts up front so that you can fix the problem now not next week … Wright

And yes if that MG was 6 mon feeding schedule and you are adding nutrients. Well it’s a no- brainer… But you may want to concider transplanting into larger pots and use deferent soil low in N P K

I was using no nutes just regular potting soil from 2 different brands that were at my local hardware store.

Ill post an update in a couple hours when I fix it.

Ps I agree with getting all the info before I thought nitrogen toxicity always presented as dark green tips clawed never did I think owing leaves and curling.
It’s like I’m taking my paramedics all over again but for cannabis lol I love it thanks for all the advice

update having a friend of my dad’s take the plants on Monday so just going to advise him.
Got some fox farms ocean blend and some fabric pots but just going to save them for next grow.
The PH meter at the local grow store was 50$!! Ugh screw that I’ll try Amazon again before next grow.
Waiting for my distilled water to warm up before I water and check the TDS hopefully the distilled water flush will cool the nutes in the potting soil a bit, and yes I did use 6 month miracle grow in one duhhh oops. But found where to get good soils now so yay! As I will be doing 4 large outdoor this year.
So I’ll give one more update Monday I Geuss and then this learning project will be wrapped up till June may 1st when I’ll drop 4 seeds to plant outdoors in June

Plants are gone
Were given to my parents friend as he’s got a retired guy growing all sorts of veggies and stuff in his basement and now he’s gonna clone the photo and keep going so ill see how it is in 2 months when I have time off and see what he’s got on the go.

Thnx for all your help, have to figure out automatic light raising and then I can grow again

Awww. Hate to see it end so quickly. That lil cheese was a cutie. Get ur grow kit together. PH pen, find some solid nutes (look into greenleaf megacrop, then send a sample if ull pay shipping), get a good solid soil. Fox farms ocean forest is solid. But id start new seeds in the no charge potting soil then transfer to the ffof when its mature enough to take a good feed. Also get ur lighting on together. DB had u looking at solid lights. Or u could spurce parts n build one for a bit cheaper

Got a roommate who’s going to help next month so I’ll be starting two auto cheeses again.
Got some ffof and yes definitely going no charge soil till out of solo cup.
Got the fabric 5G pots and sent back my junk PH pen trying to decide on what to get instead that won’t break the bank.
I have 2 200w cfl sunblaster I can start the grow with so might just do a grow or two with those and my current light until I can sell or justify upgrading to HLG.
So all I really need is a PH pen and then I’ll probably source a 45Gal plastic drum, fill it with tap water and PH balance it so while I’m gone for 3 weeks my roomie can just pull water and raise lights for the most part

If you let water sit it will stagnate. Also pH will drift back to original level. It would behoove you to teach the babysitter how to pH properly.

And i recommend the Apera 20. Its 35-40 bucks. But almost the single most underrated factor to growing good reefer is pH and those puppies are solid

3 Likes

Think it’s cheaper to PH your own tap water or should I just buy a bunch of jugs of reverse osmosis water.
The thing I don’t like about buying a RO system is you only get a tiny bit at a time and that’s a big hassle for my roomie

Indeed. I used rainwater first grow (PITA!) second round has been me phing tap. Much much easier. I may upgrade eventually to RO. just not in rhe budget currently

Do you think PHing tap is cheaper and easier then RO? Is RO already perfect PH?
It has no TDS reading right so it will strip your soil of nutrients if you don’t butt it before eh?
That makes me all wonder do I even go with soil or now should I just go with promix PH, RO water and nutes. Feels wrong to be honest lol.

Like I want to grow in good soil and give no nutes with good PH water… But I Geuss even with rich soil during flower you need to feed.
So I’m thinking on how to plan this out the easier for the roomie considering I’ve never done it lol

Yup ud need flower feed. And pHing tap is defo cheaper. A couple tries n its easy. I know exactly how much up i need normally now. (3months of practice :sweat_smile:)

Then why even grow in soil if we need to always add nutes why not just grow in promix PH and buy 1 extra nute…?
Or do people like to grow in ffof for veg and then by the time their plants night and strong they can get in the nute train?