Borrow a kil-o-watt meter from a buddy or buy one. They are not expensive meters. Will tell you wattage. LED’s testing is with a quantum sensor, not a traditional PAR meter. You need to determine PPFD/umol/s squared off really getting into light science/Hortilux.
Hydrofarm LGBQM Quantum PAR Meter Micromol Sensor on Amazon if you are interested. Personally, I would mark height off in one inch increments with a marker and just keep the light 18” from the top. I would use one but the cost is not worth it given I build my own lights and know the specs.
There are better ones available if you want. This one is basic. The data logging issue was fixed but the plastic is still kinda cheap. Does the job pretty accurately but not the best unit.
The key is Quantum… has to have the sensor to measure led’s. There are a ton of brands out there
i Know been looking at mights for a long time especially led they are technology for new growers cheaper than 400 high pressure or 250 even compare it side by side
@Poseidon they space I have to those high pressure get hot a lot I hate heat it’s already hot enough here we’re live plus put them downstairs we’re I’m at vents more fans drill a hill through my brick foundation
@Poseidon that’s good they gave me no instructions no led glasses on both lights I was kind of upset on both companies but I can’t take back now so get my money out of them they’ll work for my space
@Poseidon sorry to ask all questions to keep you but led comes with five light color right blue red white iv uv ain’t the white light stronger than the red
Why I ask is the white light is vegg switch than I turn the switch and red&white come on that’s to flower and bud I don’t have two switches and other members don’t seem to get that when I tell them they say use both switches to flower and bloom
No worries Color has no bearing on intensity (for the most part). I definitely would not run high power in the 390nm range (UV) or 800’s (IR) as the radiation levels with those wave lengths are bad for your health.