Thanks, I will go look
@jetlag you can buy beneficial microbial solutions on amazon or ebay, or even your local garden center. Amending the soil with these products (as directed) will form the right colonies for a healthy symbiotic relationship, some form a branching network that effectually set up a nutrient exchange nearly doubling the root system’s effective capacity.
Read up on it and I’m sure you’ll be sold. It’s basically bacteria poop the plants enjoy! I’m glad it’s not on my dinner plate! .
I picked up some Orca Mycorrhizae on Amazon, and it literally made my roots go bananas. If using these myco amendments, make sure that you only use them once they are in their final growing pot, or you will rapidly approach becoming rootbound in something as small as a solo cup.
on the way to Amazon, thanks
Ordered, thank you
Was [quote=“jetlag, post:18, topic:41155”]
The PPM count was around 375-380 going in, and around 175 coming out. is this normal? I
Did you get a chance to look at link. You’ll see on journal that readings were confusing. I finally figured out that ppm on ph20 only went to 999. After that it would start reading for example 1050 would read 1.05
So if that’s not what’s happening then I’m like you a little confused about it. It sounds like you were flushing. My understanding of flushing, is the main reason you would want to do it is to raise or lower ph level or possibly remove salt buildup in soil. As far as activating microbes, I’m not disagreeing with shatter I’ve just never heard that was necessary with FF soil. I use FF Bushdoctor Microbe to help with this issue. If your water has chlorine it will kill off microbes in soil.
Hi, no have not looked at it yet, busy day. I did leave it up on the computer to look at later today. My PH20 is strictly a PH meter, no EC or PPM. The new EC60@BornHigh420. Sounded good enough. I may be trying it as well on my tomatoes and peppers once planted for the summer. And I am pretty sure our water is chlorine free.
Pictures of the girls today. First three are the WW photos. Next the WW auto with the red tag, and then her sister that did so poorly initially, now doing great and about to move to the grow bag I was “flushing”. Next two bay WW autos coming along, and last is the mystery seed from a friend. All he knows is that it is a photo and his grew to 7’ tall.
My math was off. First two pictures have the WW photos
Ok, mostly finished with your journal, wow!!! Lots of stuff over my head, lol. I will ask you about your PPM readings and why are they so high? You were not adding any nutes, yet your numbers were very high. When I “flush” as you said, and its only soil, no plant, I never get above 375=400. And please educate me on Cal Mag. I bought some but have no idea when or how to use it.
@jetlag You’re going to life the Orca, like I said though, keep in mind that you only use it once your plant is in its final pot. Good luck!
Thank you, I will keep it in mind, only once lol. Can’t wait to see what it does to my tomatoes and peppers
I meant to say TDS20. Which does measure tds.
On first grow I was using 2 450w Viparspectra lights that’s sold on Amazon. Commonly referred to as blurples. Actually Viparspectra is some of the better cheap LEDs and aren’t really that cheap. I still use them for seedlings and early veg. So half way through my second grow I upgraded lights to 2 260w Rspec LEDs from Budget Led. They are similar to HLG lights that you may have seen many people on forum use. Of course I had explosive growth. What I didn’t know was that high intensity leds not only helps growth it also will cause plant to use more cal mag. So I started getting cal mag deficiency. On current grow things were going well and I asked some of the more experienced growers if I should use cal mag. The consensus was I could probably wait a while because I was using FF OF and probably wouldn’t need any until I got closer to Flower or when I flipped lights to flower. I believe at about 3rd week of Veg I noticed some slight discoloration of leaves. We quickly determined that I should start cal mag. Depending on your lights it probably wouldn’t hurt to start cal mag a little earlier rather than later. Even if you give half dose or full dose every other watering it shouldn’t hurt to start before Flower. Hopefully this helps with understanding cal mag use.
I believe that the numbers were high because OF is a fairly hot soil. I wanted to clarify also that I do a 50/50 mix of OF and FF Coco Loco. When people see Coco Loco they may believe that it’s a coco coir. Actually it’s a mixture of coco and forest hummus. It’s buffered and amended the same way OF is and should be treated the same as soil. So the 2 together may even be hotter than 100% OF. As far as my readings they were initially really high. They stayed high enough not feed until Flower. If you do skim through journal you’ll see they stayed healthy all the way through veg without being fed. I think I already mentioned earlier your girls will tell you if they need something, the hard part is figuring out what they are saying LOL.
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Sold by: VIPARSPECTRA
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Lol, not sure how the grow bags got in there
Yeah, that is what I am trying to learn, plant speak. I have this excellent cheat sheet from @MidwestGuy in another thread I visited and the PPM amounts I should be reading. First half of vegging, after transplant around 3-400, which is just PH corrected water in my case. The second half of vegging, i need to learn when that is, he says 450-700. And it goes up from there. He also says with HF, and I have OF as well mixed in, I shouldn’t need to fertilize for at least 4 weeks from transplant. So I should wait until the girls start telling me they are hungry before adding nutes? I have my lights on full in veg and about half in the bloom setting. This was based on Viparspectra’s manual.