Hey everybody I just wanted to hear y’all’s opinions about super soil kind soil alike something that’s supposed to be just Add Water I really see a lot of grows on here that run super soil but still need tea here and there so if you needed tea here and there you basically boosting the super soil back up so essentially they can’t carry the plant 100% all the way you need to supplement it sometimes and recharged it so to speak cuz I’ve seen several grows it seem to have magnesium deficiencies or calcium deficiencies or phosphorus deficiencies while still having a slight claw from a nitrogen toxicity late in the flower I know it’s easy to Just Add Water but do you feel super soil grows better weed than somebody who knows what they’re doing with the living soil and a actual regiment I think Super soil is more of a busy man’s grow and doing it more of a hobby than anything myself I don’t feel I can make dirt that could last longer than one grow without having to remake it after every grow which in turn would cost money as well and still you wouldn’t know the exact amount of what’s in the soil even though I use a Charged soilless medium from Fox Farm I still get up to full strength feed very quickly because I’m trying to push my plans because I have high light intensity so I’m able to try and push them as long as I provide the water as well I’m still not showing any deficiencies and I’m starting week four flower on some today and I’m running fully organic this time but I don’t feel if I use any kind of super soil with these kind of Lights at this type of pace that it could keep up without showing some type of deficiency by now whether it be the seven month old girls in the screen or the small plants in the racks I just don’t see it having everything that I’m adding with my nutrients that I’m using one product alone has a ton of things that I know aren’t in super soil by itself and those things are huge flavor taste and smell boosters I don’t know might be a stoned rant but does anybody agree that super soil or kind soil is not the best way to grow a 1 Primo top notch Fuego bud I’ve seen it last from seed to weed but still they’re all small small plants and they all seem to have some sort of spots or yellow me before the flushing Occurs which I’m trying to avoid completely the nutrient line I’m using actually calls to feed up to the day of or the day or 2 (what ever necessary to get her where u want her without yelloing)before Harvest so there will be no yellowing or starving of any kind so the plants will bulk and grow and fatten up to the day of chop…so can super soil stand up against a full line of award winning nutes ? I’ll never know I dont feel it be with my time I like the idea but plants want more if this ir that at certain times and if your solely relying on what’s in the soil I feel like u will in eventually run into a problems somewhere down the line… what are your thought on regiments vs add water only
@fano_man i feel ya pain mate, has had a lot of the same in the garden with the vegies,soil is constant amending, seems every few weeks something needs a top up. an on the other hand daily nutrient line up (hydro/coco) chores that NEED doing can get tiresome depends on the person an grow size. be great to see some lab results 1 day of what plant actually needs, detailed info. maybe cut it from regiment back to a hobby lol. good question,
Yea I just dont see soil having half the extras the put my nutrients in the 7x award winning nutrient company in multiple categorys… and if the soil was better then it would have won the ward not emerald harvest nutrient line
I’ve been growing in super soil for the last two years indoor and out. If one plants directly into a pot set up with super soil the plant will need a tea a few times during flower to keep her going. This past season I had a blue cheese plant have yellowing leaves in super soil 5 gallon pot. I repotted into a 10 gallon pot using only super soil. That plant went all the way to harvest without a deficiency. So now I’ve decided to use that method indoor as well. I started my plants in a 2 gallon pot for veg using old super soil. That is good enough for veg. About two weeks before I flip my lights I transplanted into a 7 gallon pot using only super soil. They have had explosive growth and are looking great and two week since the flip.
Also about potentcy. I find my bud to be as good if not better than what I’ve smoked in the past. Two hits off a bowl is just right for me. Any more than that is too much. The bud also smells wonderful. There’s no walking around with it on your person without smelling like marijuana. The bud smokes nice and smooth.
Super soil is not a waste of time. The instant gratification isn’t there. It does take some planning to get all that you need to build the soil. On top of growing marijuana super soil does wonders in the vegetable garden as well.
There is no flush requirement for super soil. That alone makes it worth while for me.
What is considered super soil?
@Shaneo420 It’s a mix of nutrients added to soil to use for growing.
Here’s @garrigan62 recipe.
2 1.5 cubic ft bags of Roots Organics
6.25 to 12.5 lbs of organic worm castings
1.25lbs or 20 ounces steamed bone meal
1.25lbs or 20 ounces bloom bat guano
1.25lbs or 20 ounces blood meal
3/4 lbs rock phosphate
3/16 cup or 3 tablespoons Epsom Salts
1/8 cup or 2 tablespoons sweet lime (dolomite)
1/8 cup or 2 tablespoons azomite (trace elements)
1.5 teaspoons powdered humic acid
1 1.5 cubic ft bag of Roots Organics
3.125 to 6.25 lbs of organic worm castings
.625 lbs or 5/8 lbs or 10 ounces steamed bone meal
.625 lbs or 5/8 lbs or 10 ounces bloom bat guano
.625 lbs or 5/8 lbs or 10 ounces blood meal
3/8 lbs or 6 ounces rock phosphate
3/32 cup or 1.5 tablespoons Epsom Salts
1/16 cup or 1 tablespoon sweet lime (dolomite)
1/16 cup or 1 tablespoon azomite (trace elements)
3/4 teaspoon powdered humic aci
There is also an updated version.
@shindig153 I really appreciate you input I know thaler stuff works the proof is in the pudding …have you thought about doing a side by side of your super soil to other premade brands such as kind soil…how much money in first do you need spend to make say 3 bags of fox farm equivalent volume… and what kind of teas do you use…its probally time and plant specific wh as ts going in the tea… I’m sure you grew in other to super soil prior to using a resipie and going for it bit r
Trace minerals and aroma boosters flavonoid booster essential oils all that has to deplete fast in super soil I should be paid for the amount I push this product
Thank you shindig 153 this is my first indoor grow I have for WW autos I’m at week 3 using FFOF soil, I geminated with paper towels until two roots were about an inch then straight into 5 gallon smart pots, first two weeks under one 400w Mh now I’m running 2x 400w My about 30" above canopy just started nutrients using half the amount suggested
My first indoor grow I used the ff trio. Inexperience shined through. Never flushed. Ended up pretty harsh.
Found this forum and read and read and decided to go organic using super soil. I really like building my soil. Over time I’ve tweaked the recipe as I gained more experience growing. I think I have it pretty well dialed in. I working towards a living soil. Mycorrhizae fungi I believe makes a difference.
I have no experience with other nutrient line ups. I’m sure they work great. What ever you choose is fine.
Also the soil being used makes a difference. I’ve use fox farms soil ocean forest and happy from. Espoma makes a great organic soil I feel works better than the two listed above.
This is what I use.
Hey @fano_man is that stuff certified organic? Does it have the OMRI listed stamp on it? Also is there information on heavy metals in that stuff?
Yes you are right about the super soil, tea and ro water is what you need, wonder how much that stuff costs, how much is in that stuff that you don’t need. Don’t get mixed up between living soil and super soil.
Living soil is where it is at bud, no half filling, and each time you re plant in living soil, the soil gets better, Once you get it down to a science you can re use the same soil over and over about 4 times before doing a overhaul recharge. And it is only a few ingredients that you buy in a large amount, Bokashi, kelp meal ,oyster shell, insect frass, ect. lasts way longer than bottled stuff, @Budbrother and @Mrcrabs can give you info that will blow you away. Hydro guys have the same argument.
I learned that if my plants start turning yellow to top dress kelp meal, neem/karanja meal, oyster shell, and ewc and water with compost tea. All OMRI certified. Good luck, hope your lights make it till tuesday ! your grow looks great too.
My living soil has enough nutrients, minerals and lots of extras to keep my plant happy, microbes happy and living in perfect harmony , till it’s last moments on this planet, it don’t Cannibalize itself , stay green throughout grow no need for flushing or phing and can be grown with just water the whole grow. The plants chooses what to eat , not what you thinking it needs. Good luck on whatever method you choose . Keep’um green
Freshly harvested and fan leaves still green and healthy
Have a great day everyone
Hell yaha, that’s what you talkin about.
Here is a good read, borrowed from gn.
Organic Cannabis Soil Recipe
Just recently I came upon a great soil mix recipe. I also included the
way to feed this mix because it’s unique in the fact that we’re targeting
enzymes in our feeds. The mix is awesome if you know how to drive it.
Reasons people fail this method
● Poor humus source (humus is a term thrown loosely in the
compost world. Humus is pure carbon. Mature compost will
stain your hands black if you squeeze it.
● Container too small (a 15g or larger will ensure a smooth grow if
you follow the schedule. 10g works but it’s a struggle.)
● Cutting corners on the feed schedule (all these inputs have their
place and must be used to keep the system healthy.)
Start by lining the bottom 1.5" of your containers with Flowerock
volcanic rock for better aeration and leached nutrients get captured
here and are not lost. In deeper pots like grassroots, go with 2" of rock.
We recommend Flowerock brand because companies like Vigoro mix
dyed granite and we have even heard of skeletons of coral because it
has tiny dimples but we want pores, not dimples. Quality lava rock
should have pores going all throughout.
Quality lava rock
This sounds gross to some but if you’ve ever wrangled worms from an
old bed with Springtails biting you and jumping in your face its a
cakewalk. This is how to check quality. Take a larger piece and wash
all the dust off then try to blow into the rock… we know it sounds
funny…but you should be able to freely blow into the rock and notice it
coming out of all sides of the rock via pores created while the magma
cools and carbon separates, steam is released, etc.
Base soil mix
PREMIUM worm castings (this is important)
Canadian SPHAGNUM peat moss and our compost in balanced
Pumice 1/8-3/8 (Flowerock works with help from a sledgehammer)
Amendments per cubic foot
1/2-1 cup neem/Karanja cake
1 cup kelp meal
1 cup fresh ground malted barley powder
2-3 cups rock dust (if you busted your flowerock the dust left will
1/2 cup gypsum
We use uncharged biochar as half of our aeration amendment. When
you water you can hear the stuff crackle as it expands. We let the soil
cold cook for 2 weeks to a month and then feed it as if it has plants
while we do this…why…again were feeding soil here. This will also
charge biochar while in the soil.
We opt to add the worms from the start. We feel they ramp things up
faster. We use a combination of red wrigglers and euro nightcrawlers.
The wrigglers work the top and the crawlers work the bottom.
Guaranteed to build humus fast. We apply a handful per 2x2. These
amendments also increase metabolic rates in earthworms including
This is a no-water recipe, only super soil by any means.
“Here’s an example of a tried and true watering schedule (because it has
been proven by numerous growers for years) that we recommend you
use from day 1 to ensure your plants are being pushed to ‘peak health’
and expressing their full ‘genetic potential.’:
Day 1 Plain water
Day 2 No watering
Day 3 MBP top-dress watered in with Aloe/Fulvic/Silica (ag-sil or your
silica source of choice)
Day 4 No watering
Day 5 Plain water
Day 6 Neem/Kelp tea
Day 7 No watering
Day 8 Plain water
Day 9 No watering
Day 10 Coconut Water
Day 11 No watering
REPEAT - Beginning to end, no changes needed for various stages of
growth, simple enough and proven to work on all varieties tested.
If you use the Blumat system you basically treat the plain waterings
like no watering. When using blumat we recommend you only feed a
200g bed 2 gallons to avoid overwatering.
Just feed it at a little bit more concentrated rate with coconut water.
We double the dose per gallon. For example, we feed 1/2 cup of
coconut water per gallon per plant but we feed the whole bed after
targeting root zones. Coconut water benefits all soil life, not just plants
however you do want to make sure the plants get some so I’ll explain
how we target the root zone.
We start by spraying the trunk at the soil or mulch line. This ensures
the water and coconut water will run down the stem and follow along
the roots like water tends to do, find the path of least resistance. Then
we soak all ground under the canopy as this is where your rhizosphere
is. The leftover just goes to the bed.
This also goes for fulvic/aloe/silica.
Put a cherry on top
We recommend to go light on amendments because we top our soil
with a 2” layer of high-quality compost then top-dress it per 10g with
● 1 cup MBP per 10g
● 1.5 cup kelp meal
● 1/2 cup Karanja/neem cake
Monthly top dress
Top dress kelp meal and neem/Karanja cake monthly and top-dress
1/2" layer of compost or EWC between cycles.
A number of items can be used as mulch. Mulch is vital to keep the
surface of the soil moist (not wet) which is the hotbed for biological
activity. It will also save a ton of water and helps keep humidity down
since evaporation rates are slowed. Listed from most commonly used.
● Barley straw
● Alfalfa straw (I could only find hay in bales but I separated the
straw and will use the leftover to make alfalfa meal)
● Pine bark mulch
● Cocoa bean shells (rinse before using. I have heard they salt it
● Build a Soil cover crop blend (mixture nitro fixers and DA)
● Clover (nitrogen fixer)
● Ryegrass (dynamic accumulator)
● Alfalfa (DA)
● Chocolate Mint (IPM)
There are many others but these are a few. They can be mixed for a
triple threat. For example, I run ryegrass, clover, and chocolate mint
Never till or recycle the soil. Mulch trimmed fan leaves and other
byproducts from each harvest back into the soil. The soil life builds
with each cycle. You will begin to notice your soil becoming more
fertile. You can stretch these inputs by the 3rd cycle. For example,
change the feedings to every 6 days rather than 3. At this point, you will
get a feel for your soil balance. Kelp and neem and compost can be
top-dressed every other cycle. MBP does have a direct effect on the
plant’s health so I would never go more than 2 weeks without a top
Everyone has different base soil conditions and nutrient balance
depending on their area and growing zone. It is easy to build a very
fertile base for continuous plant growth and as your soil improves with
each growing cycle you will need fewer amendments and additives. We
strive to stay 100% organic in all our plant nutrient products.
I said 4 , but every 3 cycles. Another option to many many options to growing, not that one method is better, it is the operator that makes or breaks the grow.
My C99a clone run was first run in my soil
It was in a plastic grow bag still for 2nd run, C99c
before I cut the top 1/3 off the bag off, and I put that inside a 3 gal fabric pot with a new top dress and bokashi layer for cycle 3.
3rd cycle with C99e in this soil
Very Very Nice. Looks good bud. Hope all is well.
Very nice looking plants, as usual!!!
Thank you guys for your input u see why super soil is good u go above and beyond in that recipe for sure and yes all my nutes are omri