Super skunk first time indoors

It’s not really an exact line of where you need it and where you don’t. But you’d be in that neighborhood.

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:exploding_head::exploding_head::exploding_head::exploding_head::exploding_head::exploding_head::exploding_head::exploding_head::exploding_head::exploding_head::exploding_head::exploding_head::exploding_head::exploding_head:

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Here’s my Indy! She will be 4 weeks tomorrow. @Humanclone Should I go ahead and top again?

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I wouldn’t yet plant will be too bushy wait until the next few nodes and for plant to get taller

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Is there a “bite me, stop bragging” icon? LOL I’ll post pics in the morning after I water…

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She looks great man :metal:

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:joy::joy::joy::joy::joy::joy::stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes: Am I winning!? Lol

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So that’s what they’re supposed to look like…

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Happy anniversary

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Yeah :grin: @Whodat66 :balloon:Happy Anniversary :tada:

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Hmm… so if I am doing the math right, and my lights are kicking out 2.23 pf/W and I have 600w, my ppf for the whole shebang is 2.23*600=1338.

My tent is 4’x4’ (16 sq ft) which is equal to 1.48645 square meters.

So if I take the space (1.48 square meters) and multiply that by 1338, I should get my ppfd? So 1338/1.48?

That’d be a ppfd of 904… which is about where I think we calculated it last year when we put this all together. I do that math right? My believe was that I was operating around 900ppfd so it checks out.

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Hmmm. Not so sure. Will look through numbers and try to comprehend. But first. 600w real or 277w real? Think its important to think of at wall wattage. Kind of light as well?

Looking at the digits and placing and math? Looks right. What it all means? Still lost. Tag time!!! :joy: @dbrn32

Last edit. Sorry u already poked him. My bad man

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For me it’s 600 real watts… I built them myself after Rob helped me figure out what pieces/parts/etc I needed. My lights are Citizen CLU048-1212 Gen 5 COBs in 3000k. I am driving them 5 at a time with a 1050ma driver (40 watts consumption per COB) - 200 watts total per driver. Thankfully the peeps at RIL have done and figured out a lot of the details on these COBs for us, so we do have data on the pf/W on these style lights.

It’s really 610 watts according to my meter. :wink:

What does it mean? Well, we have some science that tells us what the ideal ppfd is for a cannabis plant with or without other environmental augmentation (i.e. adding CO2), so we can build our lights with that in mind.

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Ahhhh. See THAT i followed. Nice lighting btw

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I need a question answered by some of you cloning pros. I have successfully created 2 clones from my outdoor strain! Turns out the trick was to distance the light further. Roots started showing yesterday. Thanks for all your advice @Mrcrabs! Question is; how long should I wait before placing them in soil and is there a certain soil requirement? I have jiffy starting mix but wasn’t sure if it was safe to go ahead and put them in a “hotter” mix. @neckNflu @Daddy @WonkaMan @MattyBear @Nug-bug @raustin. Here’s a pic;

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Great job! They look great. Now you just need another tent and light setup :wink: :joy:

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Lol :joy::rofl:

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Should be pretty close. I think to get the most accurate number we have to work on one side of the driver or the other. But you ran the math right.

2.3 umol/joule is the led efficacy. So run numbers on dc side there. If you wanna take wall watts into account, then you have to take driver loss into account and you would get system efficacy. If that makes sense?

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I think what you are saying is although the driver is consuming 200w, it’s only converting a percentage of those watts to light output. 93%? I forget.

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Yup The efficiency on the hlg drivers will be around 93%.

The other thing there is the accuracy on the killawatts are known to fluctuate too, so difficult to get hard number off of them. Running from data sheets, 7% hit on the 2.3 puts you at about 2.14 umol/ joule for system efficacy. Providing the killawatt is accurate you should be able to use the 2.14 directly over wall watts to get estimate on ppf. To use the 2.3, you’d have to guesstimate or measure voltage and current on dc side to come up with a power number that didn’t include driver loss and run math back out.

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