If you are only at week 6 they need a solid 2 weeks to fatten up or you will have a lot of fluffy little things. The way it works when u dry u loose a 3rd of size so it it’s 8” long and 4” in dia at dry u will be 4”long and 1.5” dia roughly so anything that is small is going to do nothing for you I would expect harvest to be any sooner then x-mass day but she needs more time and get the igniter out and the carb part you are useing I’m assuming you are useing big bud and overdrive and flawless finish for your flush that the whole line for flower lol also I found if you mix the igniter and big bud you get defecency. Like they look like over feeding but it’s under feed on what it needs at that time and that happens to me 4 grows in a row when I separated them it fixed all the issues I was haveing also is y I’m trying new stuff by remo
Thank you so much… @ girls started to flower 10/12… 1 of them has those big buds… the other just has small tight nuggets… now the other 2 started to flower 10/15 and 1 girl is tall and has the same tight nuggets while the other has 2 big colas and some fluffy buds… the other 2 flowered 10/19 and both just have fluffy buds… I am using the advanced nutrients… thank you for telling me about separating the igniter and big bud!! also added bud candy…big bud, overdrive and flawless finish… also using sensi grow and sensi flower A&B… but cut out the sensi…so… do i add big bud 1 water and igniter the next???
I flushed last week… probably not enough… i have them in 5 gallon fabric and i used only 5 gallons each plant to flush, waited 2 days then started with flower nutes again… would you care to give me a schedule to follow… also… should i stop using the molasses???..because it seems everytime i use it that is when i start to get some yellowing on the leaves???
K no more igniter that is done for this grow week 6 and 7 is bigbud week 8-9 overdrive no bigbud and if they are getting amber tri by then the flawless flush is used alone and only for flush and that will bee week 10 most likely for autos I grow photos I don’t grow autos
Thank you… I have 2 gorilla glues fem growing. 1 is looking a bit off color… the other looks healthy and both are getting exactly the same lighting and nutes???
Well is one looks good and other looks ok then the ok one might need a adjustment in nuits or ph what’s the ph of the runoff on the one that looks good and then one that looks ok normally it’s a ph issue
I will have to do that today and let you know!
ok… ph in for both are. 6.2. and tds. 145…the not so good girl out. ph 6.5. tds. 948 ppm… ok girl out ph. 5.7. tds. 2.67 ppt… WTF. ??? i am going to flush with BUSHDOCTOR SLEDGEHAMMER at a 6.3 ph and flipping the lights to 12/12 tonight… what do you think? jere are pics
@PurpNGold74. @raustin. @Mr.Indica. @MattyBear. @Laurap
I think u should fix the pH problem before flipping to 12-12. It could cause serious problem in flower
Yes, @PurpNGold74 is right, get your Ph under control first. If you’re in soil you’re Ph should be between 6.3 and 6.8.
so… what do i do? what ph # should i use to bring the low ph up? 6.8??? and the tds??? would bushdoctor flush correct the bigh tds???
Yes, you can use Sledgehammer to bring your PPM down and adjust your Ph at the same time. Just flush with a Ph of 6.8 until your Ph is 6.3 or above. Keep checking your runoff add you flush to get the PPM down to about 200. Then you can add a gallon of nutrients.
how much can i flush in 1 day? doesnt matter??? just keep it going until runoff is between 6.1 and 6.5 ??? same with TDS ??? so… once its fixed… how long before i can add nutes?
Do this all in one day. I know it’s a lot of water, but this is why it’s called a flush. Just keep running water through the soil until you get a 6.3 minimum reading. Once your PPM and Ph are where you want them, you can add your nutes in the last gallon.
Thank you so so much !!! Do yo usee the off colors of the girls? Is that why? or nute burn from high tds or low ph?.. i had been using 6.3 ph water for feed and plain… adjust ph after nutes added to water
The color looks like a deficiency. Not sure with but cal or mag. After u finish flushing n get pH n ppm in range, feed with that last gallon. Dont forget calmag. I add at least a teaspoon every feed. More if i see purpling stems or other signs.
Nute burn is actually the opposite of a deficiency. It means they had too much of one thing n the tips of ur leaves burn.
Also many diff deficiencies show many diff ways.
So purple on stems is cal mag deficiency??? thank you everyone !!!
It can be genetics. But yes that was my takeaway. My leaves also got HORRIBLE overnight. But the stems purpled bout a week before that. Couple weeks of good pH’n n calmag supplements n the stems are 85% green again
Everything @raustin said is exactly what I was going to say when u said one was good and other was ok I figured ppm or ph but flush the shit out of them it’s going to take a few hr of doing it to get it under control don’t get frustrated it’s part of the proses that’s one of the reason I went hydro way raiser to change water as a flush. One thing I don’t agree with is the purpling almost every ladie I grow has purple stems it’s never been a issue with them I look at it as a sunburn but if they are a deep dark purple then yes to much of something. But the one that looks like Canoes for leafs is a calmag deficiency as well as a little potash will help don’t go crazy with the adjustments you can make it worse
… i flushed. got the oh of soil to 6.8 and tds into the 600’s. any idea what i should be getti g at tds?? i flushed it with SLEDGEHAMMER and 22 gallons of water each…added cal mag and nothing else…