Spider mites? Aphids? Fungus gnats? Or nutes?

What are we looking at here? Nutes, mites or aphids? Possible light burn from high night humidity? I haven’t been able to find any mites… actually see them… did find a handful of little black things…the didn’t fly though… easy to see without a scope… … all hydro, clay pebbles, rdwc, super aerated so ec is at 0.6. Ph 6.2. Temp @76° humidity @ 50%. Windy as hell… hid…co2- @800-1400ppm


First and for most I would like to WELCOME YOU to our world of growing here at ILGM and to our awesome community

I strongly believe that it’s " WHITE POWDERY MILDEW "
Here are a few pic’s of white powerdery mildew

The fix is below the pic’s at the bottom of that I posted a pic of how to clean your harvest

thPXF8K09C

pm2

What causes White Powdery Mildew?

High Humidity

WPM needs moisture to thrive, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it needs water.
Having a grow area with
high humidity is all WPM needs to grow. This seems to be a bit problematic since
young cannabis plants
grow best in relatively humid environments (40% -60% RH). Luckily, high humidity
usually only becomes an
issue when it’s combined with the next cause (low/no airflow).

People who live in environments with extremely high humidity (such as Florida
and the UK) can purchase a
dehumidifier to control humidity in the grow area. This is especially important
during the flowering phase
when humidity needs to be much lower (45% rh) to prevent rampant growth of WPM
and bud mold.

Low/No Airflow

White Powdery Mildew has a hard time settling in a grow room where the air is
being moved. High humidity
will give WPM the conditions it needs to survive, but poor airflow is what gives
it the ability to settle
down in the first place. In fact, a small (preferably oscillating) fan moving air
in a grow area will prevent
the vast majority of White Powdery Mildew woes.

Poor Ventilation

If you have WPM spores in your grow area and the air in grow area is never
exchanged for fresh air, the
spores get multiple chances to land on your plants and reproduce. This happens
most often in conditions
where cannabis is being grown in a closed, unventilated space - such as a closet -
and precautions aren’t
taken to exchange old stale air for new fresh air.

Leaf-Leaf Contact

Leaf to leaf contact = moisture = White Powdery Mildew! Leave’s that are touching
each other will form
moisture between them, and thus they become more likely to contract WPM. Untrained
bushy/leafy plants
with lots of new vegetative growth are especially prone since plants will often have
leaves mashed up
against each other as they try to reach the light.
Advanced growers can defoliate some of the fan leaves that are completely shaded
from the grow light
to make fewer choice landing spots for White Powdery Mildew. Also, defoliation
frees up energy for the
plant to use when done correctly and increases yields! See our article on
defoliation for more info.
White powdery mold on the stem of an outdoor plant - White powdery mold can
grow nearly anywhere on the
plant that’s exposed to air.

How to Eliminate White Powdery Mildew

As I mentioned earlier, I recently had a battle with White Powdery Mildew. Rather,
it might have been a
battle if I noticed it later or waited to fix the problem. That’s the one good
hing about WPM: in most
cases when WPM is caught early, you can remove all traces of the mildew without
harming your plants.

There are quite a few products and homemade concoctions people use to treat WPM.
Among the effective treatments are:

Milk (1:9 ratio of milk to water)

Baking soda (2 tablespoons per gallon of water)

Neem Oil (4 teaspoons per gallon of water)

Hydrogen Peroxide (1 teaspoon per gallon of 35% H202)

SM-90 (1:5 ratio of SM-90 to water)

Rather than go into these methods, I’m going to give you the simple strategy I use
that gets rid of White
Powdery Mildew on the first try, every time! Here’s my trusted 3-Step White Powdery
Mold cure:

1.White Powdery Mold: Ruiner of beautiful plants.Remove White Powdery Mildew from leaves -
Get some water
(tap water works fine) and some paper towels. Wet the paper towels and use them to g
ently wipe the mildew
off the affected leaves whilst being careful not to jostle any leaves with spores on
them. Using a wet cloth
will ensure that more spores stick to the cloth instead of becoming airborne. Note:
While it isn’t necessary
to use paper towels, their disposability helps to curb the spread of spores from one
leaf to another.

2.Ensure plants have proper airflow and ventilation - Even if you have absolutely no
airflow or ventilation
in your grow room, having even two fans will drastically reduce your chances of
encountering WPM while also
benefitting your plants overall health. One fan should be oscillating if possible
and should gently blow air
over your plants. All the plants need is enough air to gently rustle their leaves.
The second fan should be
in your grow room pointing outward, pulling heat away from your plants (only needed
if you have no ventilation).
Having a fan pointing out of your grow room will force old air out of the room, and
in turn, pull new air into
the room. At this point, you’ll have new air coming in, being used and circulated,
then kicked out. Keep in mind
that two fans is a minimum.

3.Treat plant with SM90 to kill spores prevent future growth - Mix 1 part SM90 to 5
parts water(I’ve found 7 parts
water to be equally effective) in a clean sprayer/mister. Wait until just before your
lights for off for the day
and mist your (newly cleaned) plants. Get all the leaves! This diluted SM90 mixed will
kill any spores it touches,
and anywhere it lands becomes uninhabitable for future spores. Plus, it’s safe to use -
even during flowering - and
it smells awesome.

There you have it. If you end up running into White Powdery Mildew, give this advice a
shot and you won’t have to
deal with it past that first day. If you do end up using these steps, feel free to
let us know if it helped you or
not, or how you did it differently. When growers know just a little bit about this
disease, it doesn’t have a chance!

What causes White Powdery Mildew?
WPM needs moisture to thrive, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it needs water.
Having a grow area with
high humidity is all WPM needs to grow. This seems to be a bit problematic since
young cannabis plants
grow best in relatively humid environments (40% -60% RH). Luckily, high humidity
usually only becomes an
issue when it’s combined with the next cause (low/no airflow).

People who live in environments with extremely high humidity (such as Florida
and the UK) can purchase a
dehumidifier to control humidity in the grow area. This is especially important
during the flowering phase
when humidity needs to be much lower (45% rh) to prevent rampant growth of WPM
and bud mold.

Low/No Airflow

White Powdery Mildew has a hard time settling in a grow room where the air is
being moved. High humidity
will give WPM the conditions it needs to survive, but poor airflow is what gives
it the ability to settle
down in the first place. In fact, a small (preferably oscillating) fan moving air
in a grow area will prevent
the vast majority of White Powdery Mildew woes.

Poor Ventilation

If you have WPM spores in your grow area and the air in grow area is never
exchanged for fresh air, the
spores get multiple chances to land on your plants and reproduce. This happens
most often in conditions
where cannabis is being grown in a closed, unventilated space - such as a closet -
and precautions aren’t
taken to exchange old stale air for new fresh air.

Leaf-Leaf Contact

Leaf to leaf contact = moisture = White Powdery Mildew!Leaves that are touching
each other will form
moisture between them, and thus they become more likely to contract WPM. Untrained
bushy/leafy plants
with lots of new vegetative growth are especially prone since plants will often have
leaves mashed up
against each other as they try to reach the light.

Advanced growers can defoliate some of the fan leaves that are completely shaded
from the grow light
to make fewer choice landing spots for White Powdery Mildew. Also, defoliation
frees up energy for the
plant to use when done correctly and increases yields! See our article on
defoliation for more info.

White powdery mold on the stem of an outdoor plant - White powdery mold can

High Humidity

grow nearly anywhere on the
plant that’s exposed to air.

How to Eliminate White Powdery Mildew

As I mentioned earlier, I recently had a battle with White Powdery Mildew. Rather,
it might have been a
battle if I noticed it later or waited to fix the problem. That’s the one good
hing about WPM: in most
cases when WPM is caught early, you can remove all traces of the mildew without
harming your plants.

There are quite a few products and homemade concoctions people use to treat WPM.
Among the effective treatments are:

Milk (1:9 ratio of milk to water)

Baking soda (2 tablespoons per gallon of water)

Neem Oil (4 teaspoons per gallon of water)

Hydrogen Peroxide (1 teaspoon per gallon of 35% H202)

SM-90 (1:5 ratio of SM-90 to water)

Rather than go into these methods, I’m going to give you the simple strategy I use
that gets rid of White
Powdery Mildew on the first try, every time! Here’s my trusted 3-Step White Powdery
Mold cure:

1.White Powdery Mold: Ruiner of beautiful plants.Remove White Powdery Mildew from leaves -
Get some water
(tap water works fine) and some paper towels. Wet the paper towels and use them to g
ently wipe the mildew
off the affected leaves whilst being careful not to jostle any leaves with spores on
them. Using a wet cloth
will ensure that more spores stick to the cloth instead of becoming airborne. Note:
While it isn’t necessary
to use paper towels, their disposability helps to curb the spread of spores from one
leaf to another.

2.Ensure plants have proper airflow and ventilation - Even if you have absolutely no
airflow or ventilation
in your grow room, having even two fans will drastically reduce your chances of
encountering WPM while also
benefitting your plants overall health. One fan should be oscillating if possible
and should gently blow air
over your plants. All the plants need is enough air to gently rustle their leaves.
The second fan should be
in your grow room pointing outward, pulling heat away from your plants (only needed
if you have no ventilation).
Having a fan pointing out of your grow room will force old air out of the room, and
in turn, pull new air into
the room. At this point, you’ll have new air coming in, being used and circulated,
then kicked out. Keep in mind
that two fans is a minimum.

3.Treat plant with SM90 to kill spores prevent future growth - Mix 1 part SM90 to 5
parts water(I’ve found 7 parts
water to be equally effective) in a clean sprayer/mister. Wait until just before your
lights for off for the day
and mist your (newly cleaned) plants. Get all the leaves! This diluted SM90 mixed will
kill any spores it touches,
and anywhere it lands becomes uninhabitable for future spores. Plus, it’s safe to use -
even during flowering - and
it smells awesome.

There you have it. If you end up running into White Powdery Mildew, give this advice a
shot and you won’t have to
deal with it past that first day. If you do end up using these steps, feel free to
let us know if it helped you or
not, or how you did it differently. When growers know just a little bit about this
disease, it doesn’t have a chance!

4 Likes

Big G, you really think thats WPM? Seems a lil discolord but not exactly white… more of a deficiency/bug problem… but youre the OG here. Keep a close eye regardless @Juco

1 Like

White Powdeyr mildew must start out or get started fromsome where and in this case it’s just getting and everything must be sprayed down big time

Here’s a pic of it getting started

thPXF8K09C

And now full blown out which we really don’t want

2 Likes

yeah? the spots are more of a yellow color and brown on the underside. initially thought spider mites but leaning towards cal and mag deficiency

Kinda too small and non uniform to be calmag. I still vote critters but G is the pro. Inspect the undersides often n watch for ANY webbing

Give it a dose of straight 3% sprayed on everything. If it vanishes immediately it’s WPM. This won’t hurt anything to do. If it’s mites the peroxide will kill em too.

3 Likes

ive been spraying everything with a full spray bottle with a splash of 34% h2o2…but not much has changed…looking from underneath up… you can see the dots on the leaves before they turn brown…like with the light behind a leaf you can see the dots forming but then look at it out of the light and you cant see them yet…???

Hmmm photos?

And are u saying you still see damage appearing? Photos would go a long way

I’m still seeing damage… now if it’s new… hard to say… the plants are like 7’ tall and pretty thick so… a lot of leaves… the damage is at the top, in the middle and on the bottom as well…I’ll get some new pics when the lights turn on…

Front and back… I searched with a microscope… no critters… ?

That looks more like deficiency then bug damage. U said 6.5 going in… do you ever check the runoff ph?

they are recirculating drip hydro… but ph is at 6.0.there is a little nute burn though…

Drip hydro? So u runninh a drop system? Or a hydro system? I thought drip was for soil/coco? But maybe im missing something

A drip system can be either… my drip setup “floods” from the top for like 15 min every few hours and the run off drains back to the reservoir… 100% hydroton…

1 Like

That sounds… intriguing. @peachfuzz is the setup guy. A hydro guru but i think he’s run a couple weird flood tables. Maybe he can chime with wats going on with those leaves

1 Like

What magnification scope did you use…?
You said 7’ tall …what stage of growth are you in…?
In vegg using rdwc I like to be around 6.0 to 6.4 ph …
In flower I start out at 6.0 and slowly drop every week or so till the end when I’m at 5.5 or a little lower …
Also what are your ppm’s at considering that they are 7’ tall… ?
By the looks of those leaf’s , I’m kinda leaning towards a bug issue honestly…
You need a scope with 60x or 100x zoom capability…
Broad russet mites are super tinny… :wink:
But they usually only attack the buds in mid to late flower…
:v::sunglasses:

the scope i have is a 100x-60x zoom… little handheld one…they’re on week 6 of flower…yet to find anything looking like a bug… leafs have had the spots since before flowering… havent gotten worse or better…? these are in a different flower room not using rdwc but using recirculating top drip… basically unscew the top of the drippers so the nutes run out…20 min on every few hours…7 gallon pots in 100% hydroton, in a flood table that drains back to the reservoir. ph is currently 5.8 and ppm is around 1100…starting to cut them back (lotus nutes). i havent seen anything wrong with the buds… just some of the leafs… got me thinking septoria…?only because i cant find any bugs. what about a late Manganese deficiency, since a lot of the yellowing starts at the base of the leafs, combined with powdery mildew trying to show itself along with a bit of nute burn? i flushed the hell out of them after realizing i added too many nutes( 3-4 weeks ago). ???

Just thought if something… wouldn’t the part about how I can see spots if I look from below up towards the light before I can see them… so like put a leaf on top of a flashlight and you can see the dots just starting out… turn the flashlight off and you can’t see anything on the surface, yet… wouldn’t that mean the dots are coming from within the leaf?..

1 Like

Ok… is this a spider mite or am I just seeing things?