Yes ph your nutrient solution after mixing. Runoff could be a lot of things. If you want an accurate Runoff reading take fresh in a clean dish next time you water or feed and test that. Make sure you know which scale your meter displays in too.
If you were to bridgelux eb gen2 on meanwell hlg-240h-c1050a will be 11 560mm strips per driver. A different length or generation may have different forward voltage, so number of strips per driver may change. If you were to do 2 drivers worth it’s plenty good to flower 3’x5’ space.
Imo that setup is a little hot to run on straight aluminum plate. It would be preffered to run on a shape that has increased surface area. Something like u channel for example. I use extruded heatsink from heatsink usa, but you have a ton of options. One of the first members here i helped scored some nice stuff from a local scrap yard. Another found a pile of slat watt supports outside of a shopping mall.
Awesome that sounds good, I’ll look into 22 of those and 2 drivers.
That stuff is where I lack the knowledge, like I don’t even know how you calculate that that driver can handle 11 strips haha
I just looked at that heatsink material, idk if there’s different stuff that’s more cost effective that I’m not seeing but the 12" would be 75$ a SQ ft, so about 300$ each 22’ fixture O.o
I’ll look into U channel. Although I don’t have a tig welder so it would have to be bolted together, not sure how that would effect heat displacement
560 is mm - 560mm translates to roughly 22 inches. The 30 is 3000k for the light spectrum. The rest is a bit beyond me. I only ever paid attention to those. I went with 560mm 3500k strips (I think - I may have done 3000k).
I order 24" lengths and bolt or rivet them to 1" aluminum angle. It leaves just a smidge more room than needed to lay the strips between the angle. This prone run you $80-$90 per fixture for the heatsinks cut to order and shipped to your door. I would look around some first.
You may check out TRC electronics, LEDsupply(.)com, and eBay. I got a few drivers from each place over the course of all my light shenanigans. eBay is the best deal by far if you have flexibility in drivers - which, I think, you should with dbrn’s assistance.
I’ll have to check eBay and amazon first incase I can find it cheaper, from all these suppliers it seems similar around 70$
Dbrn recommended the hlg-240h-c1050a,
It looks like there’s a handful of different HLG 240s and xlg 240s, with different other numbers like output voltages, constant voltage constant current,. Things I don’t understand haha do they make a difference?
For a heatsink im looking at this stuff because it’s cheap, but I’m unsure how I’d attach it together. Don’t have a tig welder and I don’t think I’d want to risk doing it with a mig welder, might ruin my material… also haven’t welded in years
They do make a difference. Those are things I’d check with @dbrn32 about to see what parameters are flexible versus an absolute must. For example I know the 240 could actually be a bigger driver, but the rest is a bit beyond me still. Its one of those things I’m trying to get a handle on but my brain is too full of other sh!t to comprehend it yet.
The hlg-240h-c1050a i gave you because it’s tried and true build. I have done it, and i know others here have successfully done it too. There is a little headroom on driver so if you were to get some hot strips will still be plenty good. Plus it’s a little better built driver than some of the cheaper alternatives. When you see numbers change that is change in available power, output voltage or current, or different dimming options.
And I suppose that output matters?
One of the sites with that driver has a drop-down list of different output voltages. Is that something I have to select the correct one or more like a website error and the driver doesn’t have multiple options?
It does if you want the light to work. The output voltage and current of driver have to be reasonable match to that of circuit it’s being connected to.
If you want a quick rundown on how drivers operate, check led gardener on YouTube. He has a couple of decent videos on meanwell hlg series drivers.
Tried that video,. I’m very lost. Its above my head haha.
And I’m confused on the variables of that model,
At the LedSupply site it has these options, but at digikey there’s no drop-down lists to choose different specs
Its all a foreign language to me, but I don’t see the volts on that that’s the part Im unsure with the most. The type A\B seems to be about the dimmer
One thing I notice is that says 1050ma and my strips say 700ma, but if it works for you guys I’m guessing that’s within reason
The strips say 19.5v,
So the theory I have so far is I’d want the driver to be 20 or 24v?
Correct. The A dimming is one with internal dimming pot.
No. The configuration i gave you is for a series circuit and would need a constant current driver. If it lists output voltage 12, 24, 36, 48, 54 volts these are all cv/cc drivers.
Hlg-240h–c1050a is literally manufacturer model number. If the model number says anything other than that, you don’t want it for this build.
A 20v cv/cc driver has model number like hlg-240h-20a, not what you want.
So all those different output voltages listed must be for the various models. I just got confused the way the page was it made it look like they were All options for that exact c1050a model.
Sweet. Once I figure out/find a cheap heatsink material that I don’t need to tig weld I’ll get one ordered.
Lastnight looking for material turned into looking at various lights and I got tempted to buy a cheap Chinese light because some of them are very cheap for the power like 480w drivers on bar style lights for 200$,. But I stopped cuz who knows what kind of materials they use…
I use a couple cheap Chinese lights. 240w KingBrites with some UV and IR diodes. They do the trick.
A good manufacturer, regardless of country of origin, will disclose what they use. I know I have 301B Samsung diodes and Epistar auxiliary light diodes on the KingBrites with Meanwell HLG 240s of some kind or another as the drivers. If they don’t disclose it, it’s probably not worth buying.
