Some guidance please

Hi! I am an amature looking for some guidance. Last April I bought a clone at the dispensary for my son’s science project. It was a Blue Skittles, a cross between Blue Dream and Skittles, not to be confused with Blue Diamond. I had no idea what I was doing and literally grew it using a LED workmans light for the first month. At the end of May I transplanted it from a 1g to 15g pot and put it in the ground outside. It grew outside until October when I harvested it. I ended up getting 2 lbs off the plant. Although I don’t smoke, members of my house do so I figured why not grow again and save some money, $35 an 1/8 at dispensary. Problem is, this time I think I am trying to hard to succeed that I am starting to fail!

I have a friend who grows like I cook, can’t recall how much of what he uses, he just does it. He had taken 20 clones off my plant and now has beautiful plants growing (indoor). On 10/31 I took some cuttings from he same plants and they rooted. On 11/23 I took some more and they are starting to root. Issue is how they are growing which is very different from how the original grew.

I took the cuttings and put them in cold water immediately. I cut on 45 degree angle, dipped in clonex gel, trimmed bottom leaves off and other leaves in half. Put in rock wool and put under 4 T5 lights 24/7, the black light has a LED plant light and a regular light bulb. Humidity is around 50% temp about 65-70 degrees and a fan blowing. I have not given nutrients yet and planned to but I read I need a higher strength than the Fox farm Grow Big that I have and another source said do not give nutrients until you transplant. At the same time I took the original cuttings, I took 4 of his clones, already in soil, that he was going to throw out because they were not thriving. This is my current set up. The black pots are the ones he was tossing, 2 Cherry Pie and 2 NY Kamikaze. All the rest are Blue Skittles. The red cups are from 10/31 and the rock wool is from 11/23.

My issues are as follows:

  1. Black potted plants: Tall stems but little foliage, leaves growing in purple, leaves browning.
  2. All the others: Yellowing and some curling leaves, slow growing.
    3.I just tested the PH and it is 7.5 so it needs to be lowered but I wanted feedback before I do anything else.

Thank you in advance, and be gentle I am a complete amature!

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Everyone of the plants that are bigger than my picture needs transplanted to a high quality soil immediately kitty.


Those tall lanky plants with only a couple of leaves are toast. I don’t give up easily, but those aren’t worth your time. I don’t know how old they all are but at 1 month they should look like this

At 2 months at least like this.

I read a lot of threads, so if you need to ask anything, you’ll need to tag me @skgrower or I won’t see your question.

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Thank you!! What kind of soil do you recommend? I used the Ocean Forrest and Happy Frog for my last plant. Problem was I did not know when or how much to fertilize because it had it in the soil. Here was my other plant pre harvest. I feel like it could have been bigger if I fed it more than water. @OldSkunk image|375x500

Having responded to your other double posting…my suggestion is different.
These pics show much better what you are dealing with.
My suggestion now…is…start over. Unless you are not able to get new fresh seeds, I strongly suggest you avoid a lot of grief. In one month you will have new plants that are ready to start flowering and worth the TLC and effort.

Sadly, most have gone too far without good nutes, care and proper PH control.
Once a plant goes too far like that, it’s a major chore just to get them to turn green again.

Start seeds in glass of water with a drop or two of hydrogen peroxide. Once they have 1/4" tap root…move to clear plastic cups. Once roots look like a spider web, transplant.
After 3rd set of leaves…start feeding at 20% of feeding schedules. Learn to read your leaves. Adjust as needed.

Suggest avoiding pre-fertilized soil. Best to have total control of nutes, PH n PPM.

PH n PPM Meters ARE CRITICAL. $20 a set online.

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Definitely get you pH under control. Clones are not like seedlings. They can handle nutes as they are the same age as the mother plant. I would get rid of the black potted ones and concentrate on getting the others green and healthy. pH is the issue at 7.5.

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Is it me? Or do they look like f…ING mini palm trees. LOL

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The 4th and 6th pic is…

Molybdenum (Mo)

HERE IS MY PIC

1134moly-deficiency1

1134moly2jpg

Molybdenum has proteins that help the plant take nitrogen from the air.

A Molybdenum deficiency causes leaves to have a pale, fringed and scorched
look, along with weird or retarded leaf growth. Yellowing of middle leaves
can occur as well as twisted younger leaves which will eventually die.
Molybdenum deficiencies frequently resemble a nitrogen deficiency. A
Molybdenum deficiency shows older chlorotic leaves with rolled margins
and stunted growth. Looks like a nitrogen deficiency but with the red
tips moving inwards to the middle of the leaves. Molybendum deficiency
will usually show up in the older to middle aged leaves, then it moves
to the young leaves. Generally a molybdenum deficiency occurs when sulfur
and phosphorus are deficient.

Molybdenum toxicity doesn’t cause to many problems, but may cause
problems when the human ingests it. Excessive molybdenum in cannabis
will look like iron or copper deficiency. Parts affected are by the
molybdenum deficiency are: Older leaves.

Problems with Molybdenum being Locked out by Ph Troubles

Soil ph that are under 5.5

Soil

Molybdenum gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.5
Molybdenum is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 7.0-9.5 (Wouldn’t
recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the
ranges listed will contribute to a Molybdenum deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Molybdenum gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.5
Molybdenum is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of
6.0-8.0 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.)
Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the
ranges listed will contribute to aMolybdenum (Mo)

Molybdenum has proteins that help the plant take nitrogen from the air.

A Molybdenum deficiency causes leaves to have a pale, fringed and scorched look,
along with weird or retarded leaf growth. Yellowing of middle leaves can occur
as well as twisted younger leaves which will eventually die. Molybdenum
deficiencies frequently resemble a nitrogen deficiency. A Molybdenum
deficiency shows older chlorotic leaves with rolled margins and stunted
growth. Looks like a nitrogen deficiency but with the red tips moving inwards
to the middle of the leaves. Molybendum deficiency will usually show up in the
older to middle aged leaves, then it moves to the young leaves. Generally a
molybdenum deficiency occurs when sulfur and phosphorus are deficient.

Molybdenum toxicity doesn’t cause to many problems, but may cause problems
when the human ingests it. Excessive molybdenum in cannabis will look like
iron or copper deficiency. Parts affected are by the molybdenum deficiency
are: Older leaves.

Problems with Molybdenum being Locked out by Ph Troubles

Soil ph that are under 5.5

Soil

Molybdenum gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.5
Molybdenum is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 7.0-9.5 (Wouldn’t
recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges
listed will contribute to a Molybdenum deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Molybdenum gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.5
Molybdenum is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of
6.0-8.0 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.)
Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the
ranges listed will contribute to a Molybdenum deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Molybdenum deficiency
One way to fix a Molybdenum deficiency is to foliar spray with Molybdenum,
like Miracle Grow All Purpose plant food and Miracle Grow: Tomato Plant Food.
These can also be used to mix in with water as well. (Only mixing at ½ strength
when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!)Other nutrients
that have Molybdenum in them are: I think Peters All Purpose Plant food does,
as well as Greensand, Lime. Green sand and lime is slow/medium absorption, while
Peters All Purpose Plant Food is fast absorption.

Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.

Solution to fixing a Molybdenum deficiency
One way to fix a Molybdenum deficiency is to foliar spray with Molybdenum, like Miracle Grow All Purpose plant food and Miracle Grow: Tomato Plant Food. These can also be used to mix in with water as well. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!)Other nutrients that have Molybdenum in them are: I think Peters All Purpose Plant food does, as well as Greensand, Lime. Green sand and lime is slow/medium absorption, while Peters All Purpose Plant Food is fast absorption.

Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.

AND THE LAST 4 PLANTS HAVE

HERE ARE A FEW PIC’S OF IT

Magnesium_Deficiency_in_Marijuana_Plants

1134Magnesium-1

Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element

Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy
leaf production and its
structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production
and enzyme break downs.
Magnesium which must be present in relatively large quantities
for the plant to survive,
but yet not to much to where it will cause the plant to show a toxicity.

Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell… the green veins
along with the
yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but
sometimes that’s not
always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t
show the green veins,
sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. The growing
tips can turn lime
green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges
will feel like dry
and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then
will affect the
middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older
leaves as well.
The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer
left and right
sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in color,
followed by
leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well
as curving
upwards as if you curl your tongues.

Excessive levels of magnesium in your plants will exhibit a buildup of toxic
salts that
will kill the leaves and lock out other nutrients like Calcium (Ca). Mg can
get locked
out by having too much Calcium, Chlorine or ammonium in your soil/water.
One of the worst problems a person can have is a magnesium def caused by
a ph lockout.
By giving it more magnesium to cure the problem when you are thinking you
are doing good,
but actually you are doing more harm then good. When the plants can’t
take in a nutrient
because of the ph being off for that element, the plant will not absorb
it but it will be
in the soil… therefore causing a buildup. A buildup will be noticed by
the outer parts of
the plant becoming whitish and or a yellowish color. The tips and part
way in on the inner
leaves will die and feel like glass. Parts affected by Magnesium deficiency
are: space
between the veins (Interveinal) of older leaves; may begin around interior perimeter of leaf.

Problems with Magnesium being locked out by PH troubles

Light Acid Soils, soils with excessive potassium, calcium and or phosphorus

Soil

Magnesium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.4
Magnesium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 . (Wouldn’t
recommend having a
ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute
to a Magnesium
deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Magnesium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels
of 2.0-5.7
Magnesium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels
of 5.8-9.1
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.)
Best range for
hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges
listed will contribute
to a Magnesium deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Magnesium deficiency
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Magnesium in them will fix a
Magnesium deficiency.
(Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will c
ause nutrient burn!)
Other nutrients that have magnesium in them are: Epsom salts, which is
fast absorption.
Dolomite lime and or garden lime (same thing just called different)
which is slow absorption.
Sulfate of Potash, Magnesia which is medium absorption. Worm Castings,
which is slow absorption.
Crabshell which is slow absorption. Earth Juice Mircoblast, which is
fast acting. (a must buy!!
Has lots of 2ndary nutrients).
Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is
hard to burn your plants
when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water.
You need to use 2 times as
much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon
pot and need to flush
it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough
to get rid of excessive
nutrients.

OK LET ME EXPLAIN

First off these are clones which are the same age as the mother and they were taken from different mothers which ( 1 )That would explain the two kinds of deficiency’s that you have going.
and the other reason why he was throwing them out.

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So they’re cuttings not seeds and the ones in rock wool I just cut 11/23. They just got roots today so I’m not sure why they are trash. Also the ph has been fine until today. It has maintained at 6.5. I was told not to give nutes until I had roots so that is something new I learned. I checked the lighting and I am concerned it is not enough for them. I have 4 t5 and 2 led plant bulbs. It says light is around 200 which indicates dark.

I thought the same thing lol

What’s the mother look like the one you took cuttings from ?

We ALL make decisions that make us feel comfy.

But, does it get things to where you want them to be?

It’s a learning process.

Your choices. Best Wishes

So all of the clones were taken from the same mother except the ones in the black pots. Those are 2 different strains from his other mothers he was throwing out but they were healthy before I brought them home and did not have the discoloration.

My cuttings came from these indoor plants. And these plants were cloned from the big outdoor plant of mine that I have since harvested. Uploading: 79EADC4B-BB14-4153-A427-3B543A0FF8A5.jpeg…

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Hence why I am on here seeking guidance. I do not know what I am doing. I bought a clone and it flourished with minimal effort so I’m trying it again. This time however it is indoor due to the weather so I am putting in more effort and noticing issues. Advice is welcome.

You have a lot of plants for just those lights, but that’s a whole different topic.

Chances are you’re going to lose a few. Probably all the black potted ones.

Are there any roots poking out of the rockwool clones? Were there roots poking out before you transplanted the ones in solo cups?

If it were me, and I wanted to try and save them all vs. starting over, I’d up the humidity to 60-70%. Using some type of dome might help with that. I’d try to bring the temp up a bit too. At least to 75f. Give them a week or until you see new growth.

Then I’d transplant everything into bigger pots filled with fox farm ocean forest. You won’t need any nutes for a month or two, just properly pH’d clean h2o with a ppm under 300. Lose the humidity dome, keep your temps the same, but drop the humidity to 60%. After a month you can let it drop back to where it is currently. That’s the simplest way to go about it.

But, as @tanlover442 stated, in a month fresh seeds will most likely be bigger than your current plants will be if you save them.

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@kittyntwinstarz

Right … that’s because they didn’t have any roots yet . And you can bet the house that, that’s the reason he trashed the mother plant.

Sometimes it’s hard to be a farmer.

Specially the first few times, it’s hard to delete the minimal return plants and start from seed…or clone, again.

We ALL have had to go tru that experience. All I can do is offer my sincere most helpful advice.
It’s up to you to decide what makes you most comfortable. Btw…these folks sell quality fresh seeds. They also have a program where you can pick out the traits most beneficial. There is a section called Beginner Seeds you might find helpful.

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Sorry not trying to make it complicated but I think you misinterpreted what I was saying. The plants in the black pots did not look like that when I took them. He was trashing them because he is anal and they each were bright green with one spot of brown on one. He did not have room to plant them indoors so he was going to toss them. I am the one that ruined them :woman_facepalming:

Thank you. I will invest in more lighting. Is there a particular light you recommend?

Thanks for the advice I appreciate it. The clones in solo cups did have roots prior to me putting them in there. The ones in rock wool just got roots yesterday. I transplanted everything into 1g pots using Ocean Forrest soil yesterday. Today the ph is 6.5. I have new leaves coming out of 6 of the clones. The ones that were in black pots I tossed.

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