I ordered one of the 3 function meters and when I set it to ph the meter immediately hits the max level.
I now have all the right equipment so moving forward things should be easier but I have these four seedlings in soil.
Should I be adding water with lowered ph or is it normal for soil to read like that? The biggest seedling is turning light green but idk if it’s normal or not.
For you ph metter just calibre and with you plant I think is time to nute I think is in the 3week ? But is my opinion I’m first in grown
How are you testing the soil ph that’s the question are you doing a slurry test or one of the tester with the metal prongs you stick in the dirt. Cause if it’s that one their not accurate only way to really accurate read soil ph is doing a slurry test
Why you checking the soil pH? I never have. What’s the reasoning?
Yeah just with the metal meter so far. That’s why I asked it didn’t seem right that the ph was 8+.
I just got the meters so I need to read the manual and then I’ll see where everything’s at.
Welcome to the community ! I would just like to add when you do transplant your seedlings go with a proven cannabis friendly soil. Foxfarm or Black Gold both would be a good choice. Also if not already make sure you put drainage holes in the bottom of the plastic jugs. And if this is something you plan on continuing to do I would invest in a quality pH meter apera or blue lab around fifty bucks. The cheap ones you’re going to be chasing the calibration all the time. Good luck my friend.
Don’t believe those metal probe meters. If you land in an area (with the probes prongs) that has large voids, large aggregate, a piece of root, etc., it will give you false readings. Like the guy above said, a slurry test will give you your best results and even then if you wanna get scientific you’ll have to factor in for organic break down and other fine factors to get absolute pH. Just test the residual water coming out of the bottom of the pot to get a more fair pH.
Those probes aren’t correct I started with one if you want a true soil ph do a slurry test preferably from the bottom I know sounds daunting but only accurate way
One other thing, by having clear pots, you’ll find slower growth due to light being able to penetrate into the soil. Route mass does not like light. Painting the outside or transplanting them into darker pots may help with your plants growing faster.
Thanks I was just reading about that too, definitely gonna cover them up.
I’m assuming this is nutrient overload, would flushing the soil a few times help at all?
Damn that makes that line look so easy
To water your plants, I would take a solo cup and poke a bunch of holes in it and put it down in your pot as a way to water. The top part of your soil only needs to be moist, if you let too much moisture up top you’ll start having pest problems.
Also, I don’t usually give nutrients to mine until a week or two before flower. I tend to get nutrient burn if I do it any sooner. Wait for your leaves to tell you when it needs to be watered. You’ll see them go from standing up tall to wilting a little bit, as soon as you see that wilting, that’s when you need to add plain water.
Don’t stress your plants too much, they know what they’re doing, you’re just here to help them along.
It may take you a run or two to figure out the dos and don’ts. But, having problems arise now will help you better determine what to do later on.
They’re in bad soil, the 6 month feed type.
I’ve started new ones the right way but I’d like these to survive also. I wasn’t expecting problems so soon in.
I’m assuming the light green color and yellowing is from the fertilizer in the soil. Is it possible to flush out this type of stuff?
I would start with (3% peroxide from anywhere) do a “at most” 10% mix per gallon of water. So 1 to 1-1/2 tablespoons of peroxide to gallon of water to flush any excess nutrients that are left. You will need to flush once every 3 days (as Long as you have proper airflow across the plants) for 1-2 weeks. Only water when the top half inch of soil is dry. Overwatering will result in more damage.
The peroxide/water mixture will move nutes further towards the bottom each watering. As long as you have a proper drainage soil, it should need water every 3-5 days. If not ( example: miracle grow potting soil) you will need to purchase perlite separately and amend the soil. You will need to do this else you will find slow/stunted growth, and possibly hermies due to improper nutrition “stress” to plant.
Again, problems aren’t problems. Learning these problems forthright will teach you skills that a lot of seasoned growers don’t know how to fix. Learn as you grow.
Awesome sounds good. I wasn’t sure there was a way to get around the time release nutes.
Yeah so far they’ve gotten maybe 1/4 pint of water twice.
I grew one way back in high school and got the watering down that round. It’s amazing how fast the plant goes from droopy to straight up when it finally gets the water.
I was the same way. Techniques, science, all around plant care has gotten better since we’ve been there. It’s been 25 yrs since hs for me. I know the fight.
I had to learn before forums. If you want wonderful results, look into fogponics. Best results out of everything I’ve learned.
Sorry in advance if this is frowned upon, check out UTube: ‘hemp in a pot’ for small scale techniques for this.
It will give you the basics, build off of that for more tech.
Purchase an oscillating fan to blow across your product
What’s on the leaves ? Shouldn’t water leaves only soil.
I’ve normally got single digit rh so I’m using a reptile fogger on a cycle timer to see if I can bump it up some. The leaves only stay wet like that for a minute or two once it shuts off.
I got one of the six inch clip fans set up last week so the plants are always vibrating.
If your lights are on though with those leaves being wet it almost fades them it gives them a sunburn almost can you move the fogger away from the plants so it doesn’t settle on them.