Well hopefully it’s not too late for my plant, I just put sum Picts on the nutrient forum, and it needs help.
don’t overwater and if it is still early in the grow take the plant out of the soil you have. The root ball will be very small. Put it in a dryer better mix of soil. It is a weed and programmed to survive under even the harshest conditions.
First pot was 10 Jan,
It needs an aggressive trim, I’m boarder line on light, better to get rid of the small stuff, but trying to get it healthy before taking the trimmers to it.
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She is a beast for her age. What strain?
Hello @Powersrp
It’s not just by using “organic” nutrients it’s about having a living healthy soil and then you can let the critters in the soil do the heavy lifting and feed the plants. You just need to feed the critters in the soil and they do the rest. That’s where mixing your soil using a tried and true recipe (there are many) sets up the needed nutrients for the critters to use to feed the plants. Super soil and so on. And inoculating the soil with the critters!
This path doesn’t require as much ongoing work as other methods of feeding/growing do. Unless things somehow get out of whack that’s when one might need to check run off and Ph and PPM and flush and all that.
The living system like in the outside self regulates the system as needed.
I’m not saying I don’t check Ph but usually to verify my input water is within the range living soils can handle.
Living teas AACT teas I’ve used at end of the brew is in the 7.8-8.5 Ph range and I don’t adjust Ph I just feed and the dang little guys work it all out…at least for teas anyway. If just water was that high I would lower it with citric acid.
Just my thoughts as I understand things and my limited experience.
Hope this helps and HAGD
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White rhino. Lgm seeds, first grow ever,
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Perlite does not hold water. Whereas vermiculite does hold some water. I use perlite for drainage. Its cheap. Huge benefit. Depends on your particular application. Go perlite is my advice and dont be stingy. Consider Mykos…also:wink:
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Picked up my first 6 seeds today, good deal, here in OKC. So I came back to this thread as I prepare to shop for the best soil ingredients. I expect to be transplanting the seedlings to the small pots in a few days already. I’m going to use the “inverted soda bottle” pots for the early stage, something like this:
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This is very interesting. Please check back on here with updates to your seedlings. I think my next grow will be hydro (bubbleponics), but this intrigues me.
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Sure. This morning I checked and they had all soaked and sank to the bottom of the glass. Now they are transferred to a pyrex inside a paper towel sandwich soaked in water and then covered with a dark cloth. As soon as the roots shoot and I transfer them to the plastic cups, I’ll post pictures.
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Hi folks, all the updates are at “Ruby’s first grow” journal:
https://ilgmforum.com/t/rubys-first-grow-critical-alien-fuel/31466/8
Today I checked and 3 of them germinated, two of which with > 1cm roots, which means I failed to observe that yesterday… 
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Thank you for sharing!
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Uh, nope. This trend started in greenhouses as a way to cut soil consumption without losing volume. It drains easily for a reason and it robs you of nutrients that would be there in place of it. Thicker soil is going to hold water better with just peat moss mixed in and it’s ready to be broken down into food along the way. You get nothing with vermiculite or perlite added in. You could convince me if I saw any other wild plant that decided to grow in only that without adding in extra not naturally. Keep using it, paying extra to rob nutrients is all your doing. If your soil has enough peat moss in it you dont need any extra voids with no nutrients.
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Reason we go with perlite over peat moss is the soil we use is usually buffered down to cannabis levels. Adding in more peat moss makes the soil more acidic. If we were using more alkaline soil, peat would be a good way to bring it down but your ocean forest, happy frog, roots organics, etc are already acidic.
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Yeah, I get that. I’m not blasting it up, but I’ve not stepped up to the dwc grows. I wouldn’t go without it in that type of grow. I see so much success there. But soil…nah. I worked a part time after school job at a gardening center, they used to have those before the big box stores. The V&P was always added to potting soil to cut it. Back then it was cheap, we mixed up regular soil mixes that made great grows but they didn’t want plants to live for 3 months with no feeding, cant sell extras that way 
so it was added to take up space and leave more mixed soil for potting, and other plants that need better nutrients. That’s all, I’m not and nobody really needs to think “I’m growing a peace lily” 
when it’s one of the hardiest plants on the planet and can take it.
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you can’t beat this forum. All the helpful moderators and quick response time. Happy you’re happy. Consider using much larger plant mesh pots (go light brown). I currently used 25 gal. mesh pots. Good luck. Great grow.
