Since autoflower plants will start flowering independant of light cycles, it seems reasonable that to get the best yield, the plant needs to grow quickly

flowering

#1

A customer has a question and I hope we can get some opinions on it, thanks

My state has legalized the personal cultivation of 2 mature cannabis plants, so I’m entering the fray … my question is this: Since autoflower plants will start flowering independant of light cycles, it seems reasonable that to get the best yield, the plant needs to grow quickly. I understand that seedlings are sensitive to light and nutrients added to soil medium. I plan on gerninating the seeds in the container they’ll inhabit for the grow cycle … I will mix 1.5 cf Fox Farm Ocean Forest potting soil with .75 cf of plain potting soil and adding 3 cups of nutrient (4 3 3) into a 10 gal bin. I will have 2 bins ` one for each plant … I’m using a 4x4 grow tent with fresh air intake and heat exhaust vent … I have 410 wall watts of full spectrum LED growlights … am I on the right track? I’ve read the Bible you emailed me with great interest … As I have more questions, I’ll check in with the forum … Thanks in advance for any advice …


#2

Here are some general guidelines. Auto’s will automatically begin to show sex (pistils) around week 4. You should really do nothing in these first 4-5 weeks to slow their vegetative growth else you risk reduced yields. I have had good luck following these guidelines. Best of luck.

LIFECYCLE OF AN AUTO

A common question I see is when to switch autos from veg to bloom. Many people are under the impression that as soon as they see the first flowers it’s time to switch. Perhaps a little explanation of the life cycle of autos will help to clarify this.

Weeks 1 - 3. Once you’ve started your seeds and they break the surface of the soil, they are in their seedling stage. The first set of leaves to appear will usually single fingered, followed by a second set that may still be single fingered or perhaps 3 fingered. Once that second set appears growth will start to accelerate as the new leaves provide more photosynthesis. This process will continue, more new leaves, faster growth. Depending on the type of soil in use, mild vegetative nutes can be introduced at week 2. By week 3 most plants will start to show their sex. Males will start to produce pollen sacks and females will display pistils.

Weeks 4 - 6. The plants are now entering a pre flowering stage. During this time the plants should exhibit explosive growth, often as much as a new set of nodes and 1" vertical growth a day. This is the time when they will gain most of their vertical height. Many people make the mistake of switching from vegetative to flowering nutrients at this point, assuming that since they see flowers it must be the proper time. This is incorrect. If the switch to flowering nutes is made at this time the vertical growth will stop and the plant will put it’s energy into producing buds. If you need to keep your plants small, or want them to finish earlier, they by all means switch nutes at this point. But if you want to get the most out of your plants continue feeding vegetative nutes until you see the vertical growth slow and stop. Depending on the strain that will usually be sometime during week 5 or 6.

Weeks 7 - 9. By now vertical growth has stopped and the switch to flowering nutrients has been made. The buds will start to fill out and put on weight, becoming hard and tight. Pistols will start to change from white to brown, orange, red, etc. By now the plants will also have developed a strong smell. Toward the end of this phase the large primary and smaller secondary fan leaves will begin to turn yellow. This is an indication that the plant is moving toward the end of it’s life.

Weeks 10 - 11. At this time flowering nutes should be discontinued and only plain pHed water fed to flush the remaining nutrients from the soil and improve the taste. Yellowing of the fan leaves will continue as the plant draws the stored energy from them. Eventually they will die and fall off. By the time that the smaller leaves that come from out of the buds will also start to turn yellow. Then it’s time to harvest.

I know that many of you are thinking that the seed bank said the plants will finish in 8-9 weeks, so why are you saying they take 10-11? The claims made by the seed banks are somewhat deceptive. If you switch to flowering nutes at week 3 or 4 the plants can finish in the times the seed banks say but they will remain small and not reach their full potential yield. Years of growing by myself and others has shown that autos do best if you follow this time line.

Of course, there will always be variations depending on the strain, the environment, nutrients, etc. This information is meant to only serve as a general guideline.


#3

Nice @Screwauger
Great :+1: job buddy happy Friday
That should help


#4

Same to you John Happy Friday!!! @Countryboyjvd1971 and thanks.


#5

I think you might get a better start with your seedlings if you start them in a layer of “cooler” soil so you don’t burn them. What do you guys think? @Screwauger @Countryboyjvd1971


#6

I use primix the whole grow so i dont have hot soil unless i over feed but definitely wouldn’t hurt in this case @SilentHippie soil
Layering is a good technique in ising super tupe soils


#7

Seriously follow what @Screwauger is saying, he grows absolute monster autos… has it locked in as well as @Countryboyjvd1971… they will fix your wagon… good luck


#8

Thanks @Zombo

To emphasize that these are guidelines, my four auto’s growing now are at Days 84 and 73 and are not ready for harvest yet. My first three auto’s finished at 96 and 118 days. So many factors come into play that you just have to watch your trichomes.

So the guide that says, feed water weeks 11-13 is just a suggestion. I’m still bushing bloom enhancer (Overdrive and Bud Candy) and I will taper that out when I begin to see some amber but slowly, as auto’s put on significant weight in the final weeks.

I use coco so my sprouts get no nutes until day 5 above ground, then on day 10 and on day 15 slowing titrating the dose up from 1/4 to 1/2 strength nute mixes and higher as the plant matures. By day 21 or so I am usually at full strength (which is still half the manufacturers recommendations).


#9

Nice info @Screwauger


#10

So your saying autos put on significant weight the last few week. Great then. Well see. I’m getting close.


#11

That has been my experience, yes. I was impatient my 1st grow on this forum. I harvested to soon and it cost me in yield and potency!! Never again. If you think it’s time wait 5 days is my motto lol


#12

That works. I can wait. I’m still at least two weeks out. That’s what I said two weeks back. Trichomes are clear as crystals. It is swelling though. Gonna be interesting. @Screwauger, did your autos fan leaves start yellowing towards the end as photoperiod does?


#13

Yes and no. I have a habit of really pushing my auto’s and they have looked pretty bad by harvest due solely to nute burn and other issues. Point is, it’s hard to say but i am seeing fans yellowing on my outdoor autos now! @Happy_Pappy


#14

Thanks so much for this info … it will be followed … so should I not use the nutrients my original soil and add them per timeline?


#15

@Kjohn Not sure I understand your question.

I am not a soil grower but if I do understand and your soil is fortified with nutrients, I would follow thier recommendations for fertilizers. This outline sort of assumes growers have a “veg plan” and a “bloom plan” for nutrients since the plants needs change in flower.

My only experience with soil is other peoples experience but even fox farm soil growers have their fert supplements put out by fox farm like tiger bloom or whatever.

The key is not cutting back the micro nutes and N too soon which convinces the plant to slow growth and start pushing flowers out. By holding off on those bloom nutes, you push the max veg time and capabilities of the strain (for larger plant and more yield).

If I missed the mark just let me know Brother.


#16

Screwauger… thanks for the reply… It now seems like i don’t need to add the nutrients to my soil prior to germinating/planting and count on the FoxFarm to provide the initial nutes. As the plants progress per your timeline, I can add them at the opportune time … The nute ammendmant I used was a 4-3-3, so I know that for the late flowering stage, I’ll need to boost the P and others for optimum flower development. Again, thanks for the time… btw, has anyone noted your striking resemblance to Jerry?


#17

Anytime we can help Buddy!!

Jerry and I are twin sons of different mothers!! Went to two different schools together.

Hahaha this is me: j/k