Yea I did a couple time with banking soda that’s the only thing I had around the house yea I just did a check yea and most of it’s gone now except the one I just showed I think I might of got some in the soil they arnt looking to good
This a legitimate question, and depending how it wipes off, helps give farther detail on what it might be. I should have just tagged you right away… Would have saved time attempting diagnose properly, instead of you stating what it is without enough details… @SlowOldGuy
Yes it does wipe off I didn’t have a fan in there
I just have a fan and a cubby hole so air comes in didn’t have a fan tell couple day after he said not enough air circulation
I have this fan @Lostscuba works well, efficient, and it’s quiet. Lots of CFM.
AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S6, Quiet 6” Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller - Ventilation Exhaust Fan for Heating Cooling Booster, Grow Tents, Hydroponics
Do you know where to get the ballast cord can u paste it to me like that
Any cord will do I believe. It’s the power cord that goes into the ballast of the light?
Yea I’m talking about the other socket the light gos inside
English marigolds (Calendula) are quick to get powdery mildew so you can use them as an indicator plant in your room
Marigolds are one of the easiest plants to grow hydroponically, they prosper in a hydroponic setup. Starter plugs are the best way to get growing, but other media will suffice.
Although the seed itself naturally contains all the nutrients it will need to start life. Pre-treating the hydroponic media with a 1/4 strength nutrient solution is helpful as the seeds germinate.
Air temperature should be in the ballpark of 60-70 F day cycle and 45-55 F night cycle. Solution temperature should be within a few degrees of 70 F. See: Hydroponic Temperatures. Marigolds will not tolerate cold.
I grow them every year around my house and I get them about 4’ tall no lie.
I have my coffee out on the front screened porch and it’s like I have my own EcoSystem
She had to go Scuba. Cant have no infected ladies rubbing off on the harem. Good call
Yea but I think it’s to late look at this my plants are getting this stuff now but it’s not in my bud room thank god
Yea I need the socket that the bulb going in to and cord if possible I just don’t know the right one
It’s just started yesterday might be from banking soda??
I never sprayed it directly on my girls but have been using it to pH for a couple weeks with no ill effects
It looks to be Nutrient Burn
The leaves are way to green and the rest of what I see is nutrient burn.
See how dark these leafs are, that’s caused by nutrient burn
and then this pic. his leaf is starting to look like this one and it will pretty soon to I mite add
?Nutrient Burn is one of the MOST common mistakes a new grower makes,
The reason for this is, because a newer grower will use a chemical nutrient
most of the time and listen to the directions on the box. This is a NO NO!
Depending on the age of the plant, size, strain and soil mixture you are using
also has a factor. There is no set guideline when using nutrients, but I can
give you a good example to start out with so you will not burn your plants.
It’s always good to start out light, rather than feed heavy. Remember you can
always add more later, but can not take out when you added to much. Chemical
and Organic nutrients differ. Chemical nutrients are more readily available
and can burn way easier than organics can. Organics are easier for a newer
grower to use, most of the time, and lessen your chances of burning your plants.
I recommend not using more than ½ teaspoon of chemical nutrients per gallon
of water. Unless the plants are very big 5 feet+, then it’s safe to use 1
teaspoon per gallon of water. When your plants first emerge you want to wait
at least 2 weeks before feeding your plants, unless your plants are in a soiless
mixture, like pro mix. The cotyledons (its first set of round looking leaves) are
what give the plant its food until they get the first 2 or 3 sets of leaves. If
your plants are in a soiless mixture and are over the first week of age; you can
feed a weak amount of nutrients, like ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water. Soiless
mixtures are different from soil plants and soiless plants need to be fed more
when using this mixture.
I also recommend not feeding more than 1 time a week if using ½ teaspoon per
gallon of water for chemical nutrients. You can feed every other day,( this
goes for chemical and organics) at very weak amounts, but doing this may contribute
to over watering, and for that I do not recommend feeding more than once a week.
Some people feed 2 times a week using like ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water… Use 1/4
strength for first feeding and then go up to 1/2 strength from the 2nd feeding when
using chemical nutrients. It’s very easy to overdo it. When using organics, depending
on which one you’re using, I recommend using 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. When the
plant gets bigger you can work your way up to using more nutrients when the plants
As for soil mixtures, there are a lot of different kinds of soil’s out there. Using a
rich soil mixture is not recommended for seedlings. Seedlings that are under 2
weeks of age you do not want to start them in rich soil, using a seed starter
mixture is one of the safer ways. Seed starter mixtures are weak in nutrients,
so it will not burn the seedlings but will provide them enough to get past seedling
stage, but the downside is you have to transplant into a better soil mixture after 2
weeks of age. If you decide to start with this mixture, do not put your seedlings
into a big pot. Start them out with using a cup or a small pot.
Nutrient Burn causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. They can also be brown
and twisted and crispy looking. Depending on the severity it can show many different
symptoms and shows on lower part of the plant when its young, at older stages it
can move anywhere on the plant. The burn will creep into the center of the leaf
causing it to curl and dry up. It depends on the specific nutrient that is in excess.
For example, too much nitrogen causes leaves to curl downwards and too much potassium
creates brown spots near the edge of the leaf. Either way, nutrient burn may potentially
kill your plant or lead to it having a strong chemical taste.
To fix the problem when you have Nutrient burn, you want to flush out the plants
with lots of water.
Soil should be flushed with lots of water, Use 3 gallons of water per one gallon of soil.
Flush very thoroughly, after plant recovers usually after a week, you can resume using
nutrients after a week or a week 1/2. When you flush your soil, you flush everything out,
a lot of nutrients go with it, including the soil nutrients.
Change out the reservoir, flush out any lines and clean out the entire system and
replace with plain water for the first hour, then start out with lower parts per
Its good to clean out your system every 2 weeks and replace with fresh water and
nutrients. Some people change everything every week!
Ahh, nute burn! Stop this by not adding to much chemical/organic nutrients to your
water,foliar feeding. DONT feed more than 1 time a week unless using weak amount,
use 1/4 strength for first feeding and then go up to 1/2 strength from then on when
using chemical nutrients. Its very easy to overdo it. Causes leaf tips to appear
yellow or burnt. NEVER give nutrients to plants that are under 2 weeks of age, at
this age the soil nutrients are enough to suppliment them untill 2 weeks of age or
more depending on how good your soil is. Using ferts before 2 weeks will almost
likley kill your plants.