Should I prune stretched thin branches

Hi All.
First of all I would like to thank ILGM for providing the forum and also the people contributing to it.
I started my outdoor grow nearly over 3 months ago with seeds from this site. Purchased the Heavy Hitters mixpack from this site and have 2×GG#4 & 1 Blue dream going at the moment. Had a few problems caused by overwatering & overfeeding at first but corrected that pretty easily.
I’m just wondering if I should get rid off all of the stretched out thin branches on the bottoms and inside of my plants or just leave them.
Here are some progress pics from beginning to now. I’m missing some pics from earlier on but that’s not important. Had to top the BD because it was getting too big. Will be tipping any BD’s on next grow.

Blue dream start.


BD on right.

2 weeks on.

New Years day.


So should I get rid of the thin crappy branches so the main ones grow better ? At least another 3 months left till the end of our growing season here, probably start flowering in around 6 weeks depending on the weather.
And any other reccomendations would be appreciated.
Cheers All


Those look great!! Good job. It wouldnt hurt to start trimming some of the lowers now, little at a time. It will help plant focus energy on bigger top buds instead of wasting it trying to fatten the small shit buds under neith. Great job so far!!

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Hi @Liljoe
That’s what I was thinking. I have done some trimming of the lower ground level stuff and insides but didn’t want to go too overboard with it. Will be going out there in the morning to give em another trim that’s for sure as the popcorn buds amount to bugger all.
Only problem I have had recently is white cabbage moth I reckon it is. Can see em flying around at night on the camera and in the morning the offspring have chewed up the leaves to the veins. Sprayed them with Spinetoran at the end of today so hopefully that will kill the little bastartds off quickly. Tried Neem oil but that stuff useless, won’t ever be using that again.
Thanks for responding to my post.

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I have no experience dealing with the moths, I hope you can get them under control. I have used neem oil before but only for spider mites, works good on them. Looks like your doing things rite, they all look good.
Stay Green buddy


trim all the lower skinny shooters…they won’t ever be huge buds. let the plant focus on the buds that can turn into colas. Have you considered LST? It would double the sites for colas to develop.

I stay away from neem oil. Lost too many grows fighting white flies with neem.
Finally found spraying with pytherthins worked good.

HI @tanlover442 , I went out and gave them a good trim this morning. I’m still a bit sketchy about cutting of the crappy stuff as I haven’t done any real pruning on past grows. Also it’s a bit hard to cut a heap off the plant you have nurtured from seed. Seems a bit like sacrilege after putting all that effort in. I guess that will become easier in the future once I start to see the benefits of doing so and become more confident with knowing what’s best to remove.
What’s LST ? Still getting my head around some of the terminology.
Also discovered these rust like spots that maybe some sort of fungal problem or similar. Going to post those pics in another post to see if anyone can help diagnose that issue.

After trim.

Contributions for the compost.

Thanks for responding to my post mate & HNY to you.



Two things: debushing a plant allows more sunlight to the sections that produce the goodies.
secondaryly…it allows more air movement which will help keep off humidity issues.

LST = Low Stress Training This can more than double the number of colas.

this is gently bending the branches to almost horizontal position. Tying with plastic covered tomato wire works well. Best to do when softer, but, can be done slowly over a two week period if the stem is stiffened. Once bent and solid, each bud site on the stem will turn into a cola. Hopefully big ones, but, for sure more than if just left to natural growth.

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This guy is doing same basic thing…but it’s more complicated…called mainline or manifold.

he has pics posted. the green wire is plastic coated.

Thanks @tanlover442 for the explanation, I had seen things about LST before but couldn’t for the life of me remember the acronym. I was going to SCROG them with the green plastic coated mesh in the beginning but thought I would let them go normally to see how well the seeds went without me stuffing things up. It can get quite windy in my area so i was a bit worried about the plant rubbing on the mesh an doing damage. There’s always the next grow. Should get enough to do me for the year off them, but more is always better.

Mean looking plants bro , a lot bigger then my outdoor ones at the moment, keep up the good work

On outdoor plant I probably would’ve left them. As long as you have reasonable airflow through plant I’d try to leave what you can. An indoor plant is different because of the much larger drop in light intensity from top of plant to bottom of plant.

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took me several grows to realize the potential benefits of LST.

research, read, consider and you might be doing it soon.

just for grins, try LST on the smallest one and see how much difference it makes. keep us posted.

Btw, if not a security issue…what part of the world are you in that is in the growing season?
just curious.

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Thanks all to replying to my post.
Haven’t been able to get back on here as I have been busy over the last few days & I reached my 8 reply limit in no time on the first day on this forum so I got locked out from replying for 24hrs. So will have to keep replies to a minimum until restrictions are lifted.
I gave the LST a try on one of them on the lower branches to see how it goes. Next year I will definitely SCROG.

And @tanlover442 I’m located down under mate. Sth61=Sth Aust.[+61is the international dialing code for Aust, you may have seen Straya+61 on aussie T-shirts.] And my state has way lesser penalties than the rest if done by LE & is the weed capital of Aust, hence The420State in my username.)
Was having a look at the daylight hours online for this area and 2/3 thru March it drops bellow 12 hours. But i expect them to start flowering 4-6 weeks prior as 12 is the total daylight time and I don’t think that they will ever get the total amount due to shade/shadows. Last year I had one plant done by end of Feb but I did put shade cloth over them to help force early flowering, may do the same this year. Yesterday we had a top of 41°c with 47°c in other parts of the state but they were loving it with no signs of heat stress. Have had lower temps and the tops started leaning away from the sun not liking it at all.
Cheers for now.


you watching the cricket mate?, nice outdoor plant by the way :+1:

@Hungrybud , yeah mate I have been watching the cricket sadly. What a sad state our team is in atm. Bowlers are scoring more runs with the bat than the batsman. Don’t see it getting better anytime soon either.
And yeah plants are looking good, just wish they’d start to turn soon as I’m sick of buying bud from people that are putting all sorts of crap into it. Also I don’t like supporting people’s ice habbit. Seems a lot of them are growing to support their crack habbit and don’t give two shits about what & how they grow.

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Bacillus thuringiensis for the moths and caterpillers mate, you can also buy or make a cabbage moth as they are territorial and if they see something that looks like one it will also help keep them away.

Nature’s Way DIPEL® Caterpillar Control BFA Organic
A pest control mainstay for organic growers worldwide. Dipel contains Bacillus thuringiensis, (Bt) which is highly effective and specific against most species of leaf eating caterpillars including lawn armyworm syn. lawn grub, cotton bollworm, cabbage moth, cabbage white butterfly, green looper, lightbrown apple moth, native budworm, pear looper, vine moth, soybean looper and tobacco looper. This biological control is a bacterial stomach poison for all caterpillars, which is mixed with water and sprayed onto both sides of foliage. It must be ingested by the actively feeding caterpillar which dies 3-4 days later. It is not a contact spray. It is totally safe for beneficial insects, including ladybirds and bees as well as fish, birds, mammals and pets. Bt is broken down by sunlight within a few days, so repeated applications may be necessary. Supplied as 1 carton containing 4 packs of 10 grams with each 10 grams making up to 10 litres of spray. Active constituent: 8640 International units of potency per mg of Bacillus Thuringiensis var. Kurstaki.

I ended up getting some Spinetorim(Yates Success Ultra) about a week ago. Was tossing up between it an the Dipel. Went with the Yates SU on the reccomendation of the garden guy at shop and that it will control a few other things including thrips which I have bad problems with this grow & the last.

A couple of MK Ultras I have going but not doing the greatest. Got attacted by thrips very early on, took ages to get going again.(not much younger than my GG#4’s but 1/5 the size) Not terrible big yielders so I wasn’t going to bother with em but thought hey it will be good to see how it smokes up.

@Sth61The420State how are you controlling the smell?

I can smell mine in the road frontage :thinking::pensive:

Tonnes of Dynamic lifter scattered around the yard to try & hide the smell. I’m going thru a 15kg bag every 2 weeks.

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Never heard of it . Will google it