Should I Bother To Try And Catch Up

From everything I see for soil you’re supposed to let it dry out between watering, it’s one of the main reasons fabric pots are favored along with the benefit of air pruning roots. So I’m just curious how do you keep the roots from developing rot or some other overwatering problem in living soil if it’s always kept wet?

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Based on my understanding here, you want to keep the soil damp, not necessarily wet.

It has never made sense to me about drying the roots out no matter what method of growth is used. But so many use the method, it must work just fine.

I for one have let my planted pots get decently dry between waterings. Now, how wet/damp the soil was below an inch or two in depth I have no idea. But, assumptions lead me to believe that the deeper medium retains that moisture better than that closer to the top with exposure to air flow.

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For what it’s worth…

The small buds I clipped off over a week ago I’ve had drying since. Last night I gave one of them a sample and boy did it hit well.

Kept me fairly relaxed with a nice fuzzy feeling. Although it definitely did not put me to sleep but rather I was awake until the wee hours of the morning. Looking forward to what some amber color on the trichomes will do. That’s if whatever is hitting my plants hard doesn’t put them under before they can be harvested.

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So just to follow up since we had no clear advice. Am I looking at a nutrient burn or what?
Thanks!

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My initial assumption is a phosphorus deficiency but would like the support ticket below filled out, this will give the community more to go on :love_you_gesture:

COPY/PASTE the below list into your forum post.

Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so; Or post
NA (non applicable)

  • What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed
  • Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
  • Vessels: Pots, Grow beds, Buckets, Troths
  • PH of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)
  • PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable
  • Indoor or Outdoor
  • Light system
  • Temps; Day, Night
  • Humidity; Day, Night
  • Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
  • AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
  • Co2; Yes, No

Always try to upload a clear picture of any issues you may have to allow the community to assist you.

Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer should be included. Feel free to elaborate, but short and to the point questions and facts will help us help you in a more efficient manner

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What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed (photo or auto)
ILGM GDP Auto

-Age of plant
Going into week 8 of post sprout

-Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
Soil (FFOF, mixed w/ about 20% more perlite and Mykos Extreme)

-Vessels: Type and capacity of container (fabric, plastic, etc)
7gal fabric

-PH and TDS of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)
Tap water w/ ph down made to 6.2

-PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable
I’ve only added fertilizers once (last week as flowers started) I did a 50/50 mix of Fox Farms Happy Frog Fruit & Flower and Down To Earth Rose & Flower at 1/2 recommended doses. Also added about a tsp of Manganese sulfate to a gallon of water split between the two plants for their weekly soak

-Method used to measure PH and TDS
Aquarium ph drops test kit and a basic tds meter (I haven’t checked tds in a good while)

-Indoor or Outdoor if indoor, size of grow space
Indoor - roughly 2x3 sectioned off closet lined with Mylar and reflective insulation foam.

-Light system List brand and wattage/spectrum
BloomPlus XP3000, 300W

-Actual wattage draw of lights
299W @ 100%

-Current Light Schedule
18/6

-Temps; Day, Night
Day 70-80, Night - 65-70

-Humidity; Day, Night
Day: roughly 50-60%, night roughly 40-45%

-Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
3 clip on high movement fans

-AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
RepitFogger for humidity

-Co2; Yes, No
No

I guess I’m not understanding a deficiency when my ppm come back with an excess. Can you please elaborate, I’d really like to learn how to do better at this.
Thanks!

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Have you checked the PH of the runoff. You mentioned it was 6.2 going in the soil, what is it coming out.

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Aquarium ph drops test kit and a basic tds meter (I haven’t checked tds in a good while)

:point_up_2: test strips are very unreliable and checking the run off PPMs and PH will let you know what’s going on below the surface. When the plant isn’t watered or fed to run off the salts from the fertilizer will accumulate in the root zone driving the PPMs up and possibly crashing the PH. I would also suggest nutrients that have an NPK balance suited for cannabis. Need those run off numbers Grow Bro and a reliable TDS and PH pen :love_you_gesture:

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I have a thread for you. Explains PH in foxfarms soil. This is why I ALWAYS water soil at 6.8-7.0 ph. The 2 products that I wouldn’t thing about growing without are florakleen and Recharge. When ever I have leaf issues I will water with just these and my plant always come back strong. Floraleen is a yucca based flushing agent that allows the nutrients in the soil to become more available to the roots and recharge is a microbe blend that also has sugars to feed the microbes so they thrive and give your plants the most benefit from their relationship with the roots.
Long before PH pens and TDS meters we grew some weed and some of it was pretty good. Here is some bennificial reading for now.
Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil low soil pH - Indoor Growing / Climate - I Love Growing Marijuana Forum
Good luck and I always say to NEVER give up on a plant!!
Keep it green… :sunglasses:

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Forget that last post I made. I copied and posted that thinking it was an updated listing. It’s not.

@OGIncognito same for you too. I’ll update it and make another post.

Awesome! I’m going to bookmark that to check it out tomorrow. Thank you!!!

What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed (photo or auto)
ILGM GDP Auto

-Age of plant
Going into week 10 of post sprout

-Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
Soil (FFOF, mixed w/ about 20% more perlite and Mykos Extreme)

-Vessels: Type and capacity of container (fabric, plastic, etc)
7gal fabric

-PH and TDS of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)
Tap water w/ ph down made to 6.5, 149ppm

-PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable
Left plant: 5.7pH, 2,780ppm
Right plant: 5.6pH, 2,020ppm
I’ve only added fertilizers once (about three to four weeks ago as flowers started I did a 50/50 mix of Fox Farms Happy Frog Fruit & Flower and Down To Earth Rose & Flower at 1/2 the recommended doses. Also added about a tsp of Manganese sulfate to a gallon of water split between the two plants for their weekly soak

-Method used to measure PH and TDS
Apera PH pen and tds/ppm pen

-Indoor or Outdoor if indoor, size of grow space
Indoor - roughly 2x3 sectioned off closet lined with Mylar and reflective insulation foam.

-Light system List brand and wattage/spectrum
BloomPlus XP3000, 300W

-Actual wattage draw of lights
299W @ 100%

-Current Light Schedule
18/6

-Temps; Day, Night
Day 70-80, Night - 65-70

-Humidity; Day, Night
Day: roughly 50-60%, night roughly 40-45%

-Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
3 clip on high movement fans

-AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
RepitFogger for humidity

-Co2; Yes, No
No

Thanks!

:point_up_2: this are the run off numbers? If so I would flush using water at 6.5 and once the runoff PH is 6.3 plus follow up with a feeding. It’ll take 3 or more times your pot size in water. For a 3 galling pot I would consider at least 9-10 gallons would be needed :love_you_gesture:

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Cool! Ok, will do.

And I’d assume use the Alaska 0-10-10 and the FF Fruit & Flower 4-9-3 like you mentioned previously?
And in your opinion should I run recommended dosing on those or half dosing?
And at that, should I use both?

Sorry for the newbie questions, but I’m for sure a newbie at this. I don’t have this many issues growing veggies… :joy:

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I would if that’s the only nutrients you have for NPK. The fruit and flower is a dry amendment and will take some time. I would take 1/2 the fruit and flower and mix it thoroughly in a gallon of water and test the PPMs if that’s around 500 add the 0-10-10 at full dose and check the PPMs. Looking for 900-1000 PPMs :love_you_gesture:

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Cool, sounds like a plan. Thank you very much for the clarification. :sunglasses::+1:

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Did another watering today.

Water Parameters
In: 6.7 (close as I dared w/o going under) and 133ppm

Out:
Left: 6.0 and 2,170ppm
Right: 6.1 and 1,990ppm

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If you guys are still talking about dry organic amendments?? If not I apologize for budding in
there’s no need to ph or ppm that is all for measuring the salt content of regular non organic salt based products. It’s not uncommon for the ppm readings of a organic tea to be well over 3000 but it’s measuring so many different particles in the water.

Here’s a screenshot of an article that talks about it

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Now that was my initial thoughts as well. Like how does a tds pen determine what is nutrients vs just some general particulate?

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It’s great for measuring nutrients especially going into the plant when you are using synthetics but not organic and especially not runoff. Runoff numbers on soil even with synthetics is really unreliable I never checked the runoff when I was using them. Not in a coco where it is not breaking down into nutrients you can definitely gain knowledge from the runoff. That is what makes using those media and synthetics so efficient and effective for growing you can really dial in the numbers and make sure the plant is on an exact diet

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