First grow, still researching and learning.
Trying for close to organic in soil as much as possible.
So I’m in week 9 post sprout of ILGM GDP Autos today. I’m just starting to see a few trichomes turn Amber while most are in the cloudy phase or still turning cloudy.
So the question is, should I try and play catch-up to try and fix my obvious nutrient deficiency (assuming manganese) or should I start to flush these plants to prep for harvest in a week or two?
I’m at a loss of try to help the plants push through or start to prep the girls for harvest.
Setup Info:
ILGM GDP Autos
FFOF soil, 5-7gal fabric pots
Have given extra ferts of EW castings, Down to Earth Rose & Flower (4-8-4) and HF Fruit & Flower (4-9-3) about two weeks ago.
Have been adding 1tbs molasses to each gal of water for the past two weeks as well.
Added 1 tbs Epsom to 1gal water about a week ago when watering.
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Can you take picture of bud close up 
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Do you have input or run off PH and PPMS? Manganese deficiency is very rare in cannabis, my initial assumption is a phosphorus deficiency but would like some More pics of the leaves. PH is generally the culprit behind deficiencies 
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I’ll add no where near flush time. Also, no need to flush given how you are feeding them.
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@OGIncognito @Hashtonbutcher @beardless
Oh going in is around 6.2 with an average ppm of 160 w/o any additives in the water. I use dry amendments for the most part so not sure what the ppm is with those in account. I think ppm with the molasses added the one time I checked was 338 perhaps. Unfortunately I don’t have readings for runoff as I don’t have a viable way of collecting or testing that. I unfortunately was not aware of having to test for that when starting this hobby. I’ve currently just been using an aquarium testing kit with drops to determine ph and don’t think it’ll do me much good with runoff as will alter the color. I know I could get a testing pen to test more easily and accurately but have accrued a few expenses lately that is keeping me on an extremely tight budget with no room for any extras that are not necessities. But it is defiantly on the list.
Here’s a few pictures of some recent leaves I cut.
These photos were from five days ago. I’ll try and get some updated ones today.
Thank you guys!
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I’m still thinking a phosphorus deficiency and could be PH related but not sure without run off numbers. In the absence of a PH and TDS pen I would suggest watering to ample run off to help keep a healthy root zone. What dry amendment nutrients are you using and get your input as close as possible to 6.5 with the test strips
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Oh! I forgot to add I have given a small/half dose of Alaska Fish emulsion (5-1-1) and a regular dosing Alaska MorBloom (0-10-10) at last watering this past Friday.
The other amendments have been extra ferts of EW castings, Down to Earth Rose & Flower (4-8-4) and HF Fruit & Flower (4-9-3) about two weeks ago.
Have been adding 1tbs molasses to each gal of water for the past two weeks as well.
Added 1 tbs Epsom to 1gal water about a week ago when watering.
@OGIncognito, you think ph’ing to around 6.2 is part of the issue then? I should ph to 6.5 instead?
My theory was that more nutrients were available in the low 6 range than the mid to upper 6 range. But I know too low can have negative effects as well.
I’m going to try and get more pictures here in the next few min.
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Plant on left:
Plant on right:
I’ll try and get some up close bud pics.
Wow that’s a lot of nutrients. I learned the hard way that less is more. I would be feeding the Alaska MorBloom and the fruit and flower. These 2 in combo seem to be a good ratio of NPK for the flowering stage. How often are you top dressing these? Soil PH range is 6.3-6.8 with 6.5 being optimum
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Here’s a few close up pics, we’ll as close as I can get.
Left plant;
Right side plant:
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Still several weeks to go to harvest and these weeks the buds will be putting on some weight. I start checking Trichomes when the white pistils turn an orangish brown and start receding back towards the buds. I harvest when all Trichomes are milky with about 10% amber. This is a growers choice though
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Seems like a lot but I split the DTE and HFF&F half and half (as both had the same dosage instructions) and only applied about 2/3 the recommended dose about two weeks ago.
Since then I’ve added the 1tbs molasses to each gallon of water and water about every five days on average.
The epsom was added a bit over a week ago, at a small dose (1tbs to a gallon of water splits between the two).
The Alaska Fish and MorBloom this past Friday at watering.
I’m due for a watering today. I’ve been holding off a bit to see what the general consensus is I should proceed with.
I’m exactly with you on the time to harvest, that’s what I’m waiting on as well. What originally brought me here is to determine if I should still add more food or straight water and flush with the time they have left.
Does one need to flush when growing soil organic?
There’s just so much information out there it’s hard to know what procedures are for what method as hardly any are clearly stated.
I’ll take a photo of all the nutrients I have at my disposal, if that’ll help. If I need anymore…
And here’s a picture of a leaf I just cut from the right side plant.
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Knowing the ph of solutions, soils, and runoff is very important when growing cannabis. The proper tool is needed to measure ph accurately. Strips, dyes and inexpensive probes are inadequate. I started at the same place you are at. And after some issues came up I figured if I am going to continue with this hobby I better invest in the tools to give myself a decent chance at some success.
So, get yourself a decent ph pen. Something like a Apera PH20 is accurate, dependable and although not inexpensive - won’t break the bank. You will also need a TDS pen (PPM)
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Yep, I’ve figured that out since starting down this road. A pH pen is most certainly on the list when I can get one.
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Organic grows are different as in the medium is kept damp through the plants life cycle versus run off with synthetic fertilizers. Organic grows take longer to correct issues though. 100% agree with the statement made by @beardless. The Apera 20 PH pen will set you back about $50-60 but will save you much more in the long run. TDS pens are super inexpensive and both of these are available on Amazon. I use an Apera and Blue lab
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If it matters any, here is all the supplements I have available at hand. If I even need to add anything else. I dunno if I do/should…
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I would stay with the 2 I mentioned earlier. When your budget allows and you’re getting ready for the next run look into jacks 321. It’s a 3 part fertilizer, simple, easy and a small bag of each will last many grows
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Happy Birthday 
@OGIncognito
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Grazzy Azz Growmie! A day early but much appreciated
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LOL, well happy early birthday and thank you for sticking with me on this.
@beardless
I rounded up some Amazon points from several credit cards and put in an order for a pH pen. Hopefully it’ll be here today like it says it will. Thataway I can use it for my next watering this afternoon.
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