My two bottom leaves have become a lighter green color. They are also drooping a little bit. The cotyledons haven’t fallen off or yellowed yet. I currently have 16 leaves not counting cotyledons. 6 of them just became noticeable today. All the other leaves look really good. This happened after my transplant. All of my details below.
The bottom 2 leaves look just like the picture. It is not from the light or the camera flash. The light green is very uniform throughout these 2 leaves.
Girl Scout Cookies Extreme autoflowering
13 days above soil
5 gallon Smart Pot
Fox Farm Ocean Forest
No nutrients yet
HLG 260W QB V2 rspec turned halfway up 24" above plant
Humidity around 55% most of the time
Temperature up to 77 during the day and dropping to 70 at night when the light is off. 18/6 schedule.
You have been in veg for a bit o would say. No biggie though, you could probably turn light up a little but you don’t really need to. On 18 hour schedule you don’t need to be above 70% if your light is sized right.
Your roots are probably just starting to expand into fresh soil. Like mentioned above your soil should have plenty of nutrients for a bit. Just make sure you are watering in at correct ph.
I believe part of the reason to no pH if you use RO is once the PPM gets down to a low number, pH readings are hard to take reliably.
“Accurate pH readings in solutions with a ppm (500 Scale) of less than 250ppm [0.5 EC] can be challenging to obtain, and require the pH probe to be extremely well maintained and in excellent condition. For this reason Bluelab recommend that for general applications the ppm of the solution being measured should be greater than 250ppm (500 scale). If pH measurements in solutions of less than 250ppm are required then Bluelab recommend that guild lines for measuring pH in low ionic strength solutions be followed.”
This is why ph of water below 250 is not much use. BTW, I asked the same queston about low PPM and had to get schooled on the reason.
@Not2SureYet runs his turned all the way down at this point. You probably don’t need to run more than 100 watts if you can get that low. For comparison I run my lights at 80% in late flower only and they are as low as the potentiometer will give me in veg.
This is only true of low TDS water like pure distilled or R/O.
You really can’t measure PH as it measures the electrical conductivity of salts dissolved in solution. If there are no salts there is no way to get accurate reading. FYI do not store PH probes in R/O or distilled but use a storage solution.
When you do use R/O you may find it necessary to supplement more cal mag. I also saw somewhere that there is a concern with pure water leaching minerals out of the plant but more likely this would be a problem in soilless media. Your soil should give you everything until flower.
I run my lights as low as they will let me. So normally about 70w to start, or 35w over each plant. I go to 80w about week 5. I use the lights more so to control stretch if I turn them up in veg. Or you can lower them as well. I have mine at 24" as well. More light means tighter shorter plants.
I have watered my plant twice since it has been moved to a 5 gal smart pot. I didn’t water enough to get any runoff. Should I be watering to runoff at this point? I think my watering can holds about 30 oz of water and I used the whole can both times. No nutrients yet.