There’s enzyme products to help with that right?
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Supposedly but I don’t know how effective they are. Plus in late flower I hate to add more shit to be flushed at harvest lol.
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I’m not sure they need to be removed. I’m not familiar with all of them either, but i believe some are even recommended for flushing process. Supposedly aiding in breaking down root matter into a carb load, which would be similar to adding molasses.
Not sure it’s answer here. I agree, plants don’t look bad.
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@dbrn32 @Myfriendis410 I think if you saw them in person you would agree there is def. a deficiency. One thing to keep in mine is, I’m in the middle of transition not late flower. My pot does feel pretty root bound. I can’t hardly get my … uhhhhh… finger in her…lol 
I know that should be a good thing somewhere or another…lol 
I’ll have to feed again Wed and let you know the results.
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You can see it on the old leaves definitely, but the new growth in the last pic looks ok to me.
@merlin44 Could this ph issue be caused by a lack of micro/fungal activity in the pot? Do you use something like recharge or mykos? @HappyHydroGrower
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What you talkin bout @Budbrother?? You cousin me?? Man I would now the def between that and old farmer that got tired of growing corn… lol sorry! 
No I just use GH trio and cal/mag
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Sfl 100 use it every water and or feed …breaks down salts makes a miniflush every watering
Out with the old in with the new
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I have had pH do some weird things when the plants get root bound. There may be some lack in soil biotics but that is not anything that I have dealt with.
When my pH is that low, I start adjusting to 6.8 or even 7.0 to push the pH back into range. This has solved it when I had this issue. Since then, I am hypervigilant regarding pH and start pushing is back into range when it just starts to get too high or too low.
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I grow in soil, but I have faced that ph issue before. It turned out to be a die off of my microbial life. I know that this is a different situation, but I just figured that I’d bring it up, to see if there might be some correlation that hand to been thought of yet.
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I am a soil farmer as well, you are likely correct about the soil biotics dying off as the soil depletes.
There are a number of things that can mess with the pH growing in containers. Chasing pH is a hassle but part of the game as indoor growers. That is one of the appeals of hydro, dump out the bad and start anew. I just really like growing in dirt.
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Being root bound does mess with all sorts of shit and throws off so many different symptoms at you. As you said,
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Note to self… when planning a longer grow, do NOT grow in 4 gal pots again!! Thanks for reaching out about this and for your input. Thank you also @merlin44!! 
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There are certainly different views on container size. For my setup, I can fill my room with four plants or I can go will smaller plants and fill it with a dozen or more plants (have done as many as 28). I no longer grow in anything smaller than 7.5 gallons and lean toward 10 gallons.
The smaller pots represent more work and more soil issues to deal with.
I am reasonably sure that I could increase my overall yields by growing a larger number of smaller plants but I have no need for higher yields and I like growing large plants with large colas.
Each of us must figure out how we want to grow and insure that the conditions the plants need are present, regardless of the techniques that we choose to implement.
Good luck with your grow, I am certain it will be great.
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Nicely stated! I think I can fit two 5 gal pots in my tent but that will be about it.
Seeing how this is just my second grow, I guess I’ll settle for small plant with small colas… We will be excited to see how much we get off this plant compared to our last grow.
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If your experience is anything like mine, you will be astonished at how much larger your yields will be for your subsequent grows.
My first grow (started Jan '18, one year ago) produced about 10 oz of top shelf and 17 oz of larfy junk. My current harvest (last week) has produced 44 oz of top shelf and about 16 oz of junk that will go to compost. I have learned a lot with the help of all of my friends on the forum and over in the lab.
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Hey that’s awesome! Congrats on your anniversary if you’ve already had it and if not… then there ya go… lol
I ended up with 9oz., 20g., and 131g of shake?
My girls are thick and bushy just the way @PurpNGold74 likes em!
I do have a question, why is it best to wait to start my bloom feeding till the third week after flip??@MattyBear @Myfriendis410 @BigDaddyCain
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That is an excellent first grow, beats mine I imagine.
During the first couple of weeks after you flip, the plants are in transition and need the growth nutrients (nitrogen being key I believe) to support the growth as the plant prepares to make flowers. Some people refer to this as the “flowering stretch”.
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Can’t tell if I am late or what LOL. @Myfriendis410 is right but I was in 3 gallon pots. I now use 5s. And this thread just helped me out too. As a reminder. I have a plant that just started showing these issues again. And it is one I put in another 3 gallon pot because I thought it was going to be small. I am in coco as well. One thing I have found for my self is. The farther I get into flower. The more cal mag I have to use. From what I have noticed. it seems to be the opposite of soil growers. I normally start the grow with 1/4 tsp per gallon. By the time I am in mid flower. I am at 1 tsp per gallon. I have one auto about ready to come out of my tent friday. I am finding using straight RO water. I can rinse out about 150 ppm per day. So a week flush and I am good to go. This goes for both autos and photos in my tent. If I use much less. I start to see deficiencys. I also found for me. My run off ph numbers stay hight from start to finish. In the 7 - 7.2 range. I don’t worry about that now as it doesn’t seem to effect my plants. I start at 5.8 - 6
Sorry for the extra long post.
Your plants look great though. You are doing a great job
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@HappyHydroGrower The reason you wait till week 3 to switch nuits is during the first 3 weeks of flower the plants are still growing a lot and need the nitrogen when you start seeing flowers is when they need more Phosphorus and potassium over the nitrogen buts that’s the reason
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