Sheep manure preparation

So I have some Icelandic sheep in my property, I’ve been adding it to my compost and I have heard that sheep manure out preforms most manures. I have some plants that are will be ready to be transferred into their final 5 or 7 gallon pot. They’re in 3 gallon pots now. Does anyone see any problems with using the compost with the sheep manure (which is very high in nutrition) to fill the new pots? Idk if I can start by maybe mixing some of the manure in with water to start to introduce it to my plants before hand. I’m afraid that the new level of nutrients may cause but. Right now my plants are in a fox farms ocean, cow manure, mushroom compost, and perlite.

Few of my :sheep: wanting to come inside lol


You have to let the sheep manure age for some time before use, love sheeps milk cheese, no cholesterol or lactose :+1: good when you have alllergies.


@garrigan62 should be able to help

You only need 2 or 3 hand fulls mixed in with your soil in the pots if from a compost pile other wise fresh poop is good for top dressing the soil or make teas. I use cow horse chicken and pig poop with pro mix vegetable and herb soil i keep horse and cow manure together in a compost pile and chicken and pig manure separate. Pig poop really brings out the terpins. Nice sheep btw . Also a good teas to start with will have a alfalfa mix or sprouted rye and then add you manure for your tea. There’s several old farming recipes with this and a plant key goes a long way to so you can see what else is available on your land. I wouldn’t use fox farm ocean forest soil if doing this because it is a hot soil. @garrigan62 is a soil genius like to the 10th level i got to talk with him at a conference and he knows the ins and outs of mixing dirt for pennies on the dollar.

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Hello there @ThcinKC how ya doing my friend ? and thank you for the kind words.
And there were 16 to 18 amino acids as well. Some kind of kick ass stuff should be an awesome grow next time around

And sorry about the caps being friend

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I have some questions i have been working on getting a huge pile going but rains have slowed me down i got a couple more things to do and i will be ready for your advice along with Leightons it going to be a 3yr process with 500 acres got 50lb of pollinators mix flowers for bee’s to plant this weekend.Hope your thumb is all better now


First Welcome to ILGM and to our community of awesome fokes

Your answer’

Nepaljam x Oaxaca

Active Member

Manure consists of three basic elements critical to plant health: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Nitrogen allows plants to produce the proteins needed to build living tissue for green stems, strong roots, and lots of leaves. Phosphorus helps move energy throughout the plant, especially import­ant in maturing plants. Potassium aids plants in adapting sugars needed in growth and is especially helpful in root crops. Together, these three elements form that magic formula, N-P-K, the backbone of all fertilizers, man-made or organic. Manure also contains ­large amounts of humus, a wonderful soil amendment. Humus is simply the bulky, fibrous material that comes from plant fibers and animal remains and is valuable in several ways: it gives better tilth to clay soils; supplies food for soil flora and fauna; preserves moisture during dry spells, while assuring good drainage during wet times; and it is a storehouse for nitrogen in the soil. In short, humus acts like a reservoir, allowing nutrients to work.

Manure quality will vary from farm to farm and from time to time, depending a great deal upon the amount and type of bedding collected with it. Testing manure may be the only way to determine for sure what its nutrient content actually is. So, keep in mind that the references made here to nutrient levels in different kinds of manure serve as only a general guide.

All animals produce manure, but only livestock produce it in sufficient quantity and in a limited enough location to be of use to gardeners. And in case you’re wondering, it’s not a good idea to use manure from household animals like dogs and cats. Their feces are more likely to contain pathogens harmful to humans. Stick with the droppings from barnyard animals like those mentioned above. One note of caution: Individuals with compromised immune systems, such as those with the HIV infection, should talk with their doctors about eating food from gardens fertilized with manure.

Horse and cow manure is humus-rich
Because cows and horses are grazers, most of what they consume is in the form of roughage like grass or hay, which produces a bulky, humus-rich manure, but one with relatively low levels of the three essential elements. Cow manure, depending on bedding amounts, weighs in at a dismal 0.5% nitrogen, 0.5% phosphorus, and 0.5% potassium, low in all three elements. Be sure to cure cow manure by giving it plenty of time in your compost pile.

Horse manure usually scores slightly better in all categories with a 1.5–1.0–1.5 N-P-K rating and a shorter composting time. However, unlike cow manure, you can’t buy it bagged. Although horse manure breaks down faster than cow manure, it still should be well composted before using it on a garden during the growing season.

Sheep and goat manure is easy to handle
Sheep and goats produce better manure than cows and horses. For one thing, they’re neater, producing pelletized droppings that are easily gathered and distributed. And in the case of milk goats, which are often kept in stalls with bedding, the urine is captured along with the droppings, thus greatly increasing the value of the manure by retaining more nitrogen. Both animals produce around a 1.5–1.0–1.8 rating on the nutrient chart. An added advantage is quick composting because the pelletized form of the droppings allows more air into the compost pile and makes for greater surface area and quicker drying. Also, goats and sheep produce a manure that is virtually odorless if gathered in cool weather. And, since it comes in pellets, it is simple to spread and till into the garden.

Rabbit manure scores high in nitrogen
Resembling the droppings of goats and sheep, only smaller, rabbit manure looks like it was made for gardeners. But the big bonus from bunnies comes in the nutrient level, which rates an impressive 3.5% in nitrogen. The other elements are also slightly higher than in manure from goats and sheep. The difference, of course, is quantity. Rabbits, like all herbivores, eat a tremendous amount of food for their size, but for an average rabbit, that might mean 100 lb. of feed a year. You could except somewhat less than that weight to be returned as manure. But because it is twice as nutritious as the other manures mentioned thus far, you get more for your money.

Bird manure is premium stuff
Of all the animals on my farm, birds produce the most valuable manure of all. Pigeon guano, for instance, has been prized in Europe as a super-manure since the Middle Ages when folks kept dovecotes and pigeon lofts atop their houses, growing the squabs for food and using the manure to fertilize gardens and fields. Pigeon manure rates higher than other fowl at 4.2% nitrogen, 3% phosphorous, and 1.4% potassium. It is harder to find and gather than other manures, and is best if composted thoroughly before using.

Let manure mellow in your compost pile
Commercially packaged manure comes composted, but if you collect fresh ma­nure, you’ll need to do some composting before applying it to your plants. How long depends on the type of manure and the season. Add the manure slowly to the compost pile over several days or weeks, allowing plenty of air to circulate in the compost bin. Add other organic matter like grass clippings and leaves to break up the manure and speed curing. Turn the compost regularly as you add more manure. Stop adding the manure two months before you plan to use it in the garden. You’ll know the manure is well composted when it produces no heat and loses most of its objectionable odor when dry.

While it’s okay to add manure directly­ to garden soil in the fall (farmers do it all the time), I’ve found that cow, horse, and bird manure are best if composted first. On the other hand, sheep, goat, and rabbit manure are easy to spread directly. Broadcast the pellets evenly and work them 1 in. to 2 in. into the soil. Then add another layer on top of the soil. This keeps the manure distributed, an important step in curing manure because it creates a larger surface area and combines the manure with the existing soil. This allows for easy decomposition over the fall and winter months.


They up’ed my med to 3 times a day now, but yes it is getting better now. You got a big ass job ahead of you.

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I hope it goes legal here because i want to take corn out of my 120 acer field and grow some big monster pot plants

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Thanks guys, that’s a lot of good information! @garrigan62
I do plan on getting some rabbits mostly to get the manure but I’m sure we’ll be eating some as well. we have chickens and ducks as well. I have a compost going with just the chicken manure right now. I’ll definitely keep you in mind when I start working with the rabbit manure!

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