Fan leaves curved and burned!!! Help ASAP!! Don’t know what to do!!
Fair warning. Have your support ticket ready! They will need information to help you solve this.
It looks bad to me, but the new growth at the top leaves room for hope.
@pigSquishy could help too if he’s done with his wake-n-bake. Lol
this will get you started
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so = NA
Strain; Type, Bag seed, or NA
Soil in pots, Hydroponic, or Coco?
PH of runoff or solution in reservoir?
What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS
Indoor or Outdoor
Light system, size?
Temps; Day, Night
Humidity; Day, Night
Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
Co2; Yes, No
Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer. Feel free to elaborate, but short, to the point questions and facts will help us help you smile
First thing I would do is flush it to stop whatever is going on @RKIP
I recommend you flush it and then maybe we can find out what’s up from your answers to those questions
if you suspect a nutrient burn http://www.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/nutrient-burn-in-marijuana-plants/
flush your plants with ph’d water 3-4 times the volume of pot measure run off ph and tdds as you go
It looks root bound badly , transplant it quickly.
could be several things most of which can be resolved with a flush a transplant would be good idea if plant is indeed root bound but looks like she has space and a lock out is more probable just imo
Thanks everyone. I really need to learn how to put the support ticket in my replies.
book mark this link Fill out a "Support Ticket"
then when you want to post a ticket open new tab and copy and paste
the ticket is the best tool since it saves everyone asking questions puts the response back into the orginal posters hands also rules out many problems such as do they have meters? knowing ph can narrow many things down as well each question answered is valuable info saves time and frustration and sometimes it brings a person to the answer on their own
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The whole reason I wanted it. Starting to get a handle of the M.O. here. Didn’t mean to imply anything by the whole “fair warning” comment other than everyone needs some detailed information to help.
Hard to convey light hearted humor with the written word.
Lol I usually work on the premiss that if you want free advise you should be willing to answer any question asked related to your plants if not we simply move on to people more forthcoming that or expect a lot of guesses for an answer and work the way down the list
First I would like.e to Welcome you to ILGM
we are are all here to help and there is no shortage of that as you can see…lol
HIGH All, ahhhh poor little babies…this is from one of my Mentors
Leaf curl/cupping & leaf margin rolling-signs of Plant Moisture Stress
Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> “Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!”, or, “My plant’s leaf tips are curling down and turning black …what’s wrong?” Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It’s hard to tell exactly what the culprit is, and unfortunately the “solution” the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I’ll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.
Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (in the root medium) compared to the salinity levels found in the plant’s tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the ppm imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root’s epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem.
High Heat - the plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant. The damaged leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
High Light - yes, it’s true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.
Overwatering - for those doing soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. <gasp!> Overwatering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Alot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can’t under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes for a “curative”, and just add insult to injury.
Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water. And of course, leach once in a while to get rid of excess salts.
All of the above issues relate to a plant’s internal cell turgor or cell water pressure. If water pressure within the plant’s stem and leaf cells are positive, the plant will look strong and stocky with flat leaves that are cool to the touch due to good transpiration from the leaf surface. By the same token, if the water pressure is not up to par, whereby water is being extracted from the plant and not replenished like it should be… the leaves and/or stems will droop.
Do you know what your PH is at?
Very eloquent post man. Very easy to understand as well. I’m here trying to see if I can help and you are helping me. I guess it pays to read all posts.
And it really helps if you can understan it to…lol
And Thank you for the kind words
Also I believe it was you who wanted some help cloning ? If so I’ll get on that tonight.
Was out with girlfriend and friends last night.
Something over looked or not thought of. When I see a plant like this; I always re-pot into fresh soil. Maybe a flush 1st but, re-potting takes out some of the guess work.
I’m really not that knowledgable yet but
12/12 light cycle
Miracle grow potting soil
1 gallon pot transfer
Ph is 6.5
Not sure on the strain
I am not a fan of the Miracle grow. I think it’s what killed my first grow and severely damaged the second one. I repotted into coco loco and kept them on plain water for two weeks and they came back. Looks like I might get a few good ounces out of it now.