I have 2 tents connected using 1 ventilation system. Seemed easier than trying to control 2 seperate environments.
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Hate to say I told you so. So I won’t. But yes that is the issue. However, if you notice the controller for the fan has ON and OFF, if you set the controller to ON and plug it into work 1 or 2 on the inkbird you can use the inkbird to set parameters that the - mostly useless AC Infinity cant. The down side is it uses one of the works that could be used for heat/ventilation/ AC / humidifier etc.
I have a super cheapo de humidifier that is automatic, set it and forget it. As for humidity, I did the wick trick with a rubbermaid tub and a towel draped over the edge. It worked pretty good sorta! The big problem is venting and we burn wood for heat so the RH can drop to 40 or so. Once the plants are established and breathing then humidity becomes abundant! So I use a fresh carbon filter so I can pump some of that into the house! Why not?
So bad news is old tent main zipper fell off… So I’ll probably just make due until spring when I’ll take it starts to get light and my 2nd harvest is done.
I think it’s harder to control 2 environments with one fan…
@Cannabian the AC infinity was still a smarter idea I think because the inkbird controller won’t adjust fan speed only on or off. Also my normal duct fans louder by a noticeable Marin when it’s on low and the AC is on high.
So I think AC infinity with inkbird secondary is better than just the duel inkbird with a normal fan because you get much greater environmental control as well as fan speed Wich helps with noise, in the end its cheaper than buying a cheap fan and needing more controllers
I haven’t had any issues with this system. Still, to each their own. 
Yes agreed, if you noticed I said to turn the AC Infinity controller to the ON position, you have already selected the fan speed correct? Then plug it to the inkbird at let that controller do the thinking, is what I was trying to illustrate, but I’m sure everyone will figure out their own special sauce.
Putt it on the On position doesn’t have it control anything though right?
It just goes full blast, no?
My plants are a month on the 7th and much smaller than I expected 
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Worst start yet due to fresh cold air and low humidity… Luckily I grew 2 photos as well and I will just veg them until they are large and worth it.
@dbrn32 when I switch to the QB in just over a week (320xl in a 4x2 with the two autos) what should be the process to get them to full light strength considering each has its own 200w cfl sunblaster 6400k currently.
Light height? Should I just set it at like 18" from canopy at 30-40% and dial it up 5% or so every 2 days?
If there’s a particular power level you want you can set it for that and it will stay there. It has a battery in it for memory so when the ink bird kicks the power off, the setting will remain once it kicks back on.
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No Nicky, then position turns the fan on to the speed you select. No different than if you put it on auto, it will only suck or blow at the rate you select.
Sorta crazy how they were so close to a perfect design and ended up half assing the coding…
First 2 are the autos and second 2 are the photos in the new setup.
One ended up with crispy leafs not sure if light was to close or if new fan was to strong but hasn’t gotten worse.
Photos, one got brown… Not sure why but hasn’t gotten worse.
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If it were me, I would start more like 24" around little less than half power, then increase intensity every 5ish days just a little. Then run probably 50-60% at 18" until transition is over. I’d probably look to flower at that height at roughly 80%.
Every plant a little different though. Have to watch them and adjust as needed.
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Copy that, I cranked it last flower time to 100%.
Geuss that’s hard on the boards and probably not necessary eh?
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The boards will take it, but more light than you need. That extra 20% of power isn’t going to get you 20% more weed.
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Well my power is 3 cents Canadian per KWh… So I think pretty cheap.
And considering its winter with the room only heated by the lights, if they don’t heat enough the baseboard kicks in I feel like might as well produce as much light heat as possible.
As long as I’m not damaging the plants or shortining the life of the boards
Sounds like you will need heat anyway to maintain proper transpiration rates. It shouldn’t hurt anything to run them at full power though.
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Thanks for your advice as always sir,
One more thing.
Do you think my 200w full spectrum 6400k CFL’s are better for vegging then the 3k QB?
Probably not. Although the thought of seeing the words “full spectrum” along with cfl always make me laugh.
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Full spectrum fluorescents man there a thing! Better than blurple!??
So just to clarify you think the 3k QB would be better for vegging then the CFL’s?
As for “full spectrum” CFL’s that just what sunblaster claims
@Cannabian every light would have to be compared separately.
CFL’s don’t have as good light penetration as LED’s so they have to stay pretty close, this makes CFL’s pretty in efficient once the plant grows and spreads out.
My experience with CFLs is they cause stretchy plants unless there are lots of lights, which negates the reason for using them, or you are almost touching the plants. They are, in my opinion, an excuse for not buying a quality fixture. I would only recommend them to someone germinating in a window to supplement natural sunlight before the hardening off process.