'RE-TRIM' a "FIMM"?


#1

When the “TOP” is tiny, it can be hard to FIMM it well, and what it seems like we want is to clip the leaves as short as we can…

As they grow out a large amount of remaining LEAF continues to grow, so a “MIS-FIMM” might seem like what happened.

But as the remnants of the leaves grow larger, you can trim them further.

This seems to me to complete it better, and from the results I am seeing accellerates the process

*Anyone?


#2

This is a great effin question. Pics?


#3

Unfortunately I didn’t take a before and after.

But what it looks like can be replicated

You can see the “CLIPPED” leaves if you look closely

  • my new PC has issues with loading my graphical software, I’ll get on top of that soon

It is also in “MARTIAN” light

  • LEFT click the image twice to get the full view

You see the short leafs under the bushing out?
When I saw the remains of the original leaves began getting large - I clipped them again

TINY leaves are hard to accurately clip, so you can wait and clip THOSE leaves once more

And this makes it a closer “FIMM”, even if a bit late…

Anyone done this before? It is a “FAN” leaf, so what the heck…

But I think that a plant like this that is not expected to get over 33 inches tall before budding - you DO NOT do this to keep it small, the reasoning is to get as many “COLAS” as you can

FOUR instead of just one or two

So getting the FIMM to work is essential

And the precise timing? I have no idea

I am not at all sure how old this Amnesia Haze (F)(A) plant is, but it is due to bud soon…

I hope

~ I have been tempted many times to change the lights to 12/12 but trusted and let it go. It’s going 18/6 hours and I will keep it there

  • I still wonder about adding “WOOD ASH”

~CHEERS, everyone

  • NOTE: I could have clipped the later growth of the fan leaf at the STEM, but I was unsure what might happen so I decided not to risk it. Cutting the fan leaf stem might be a real good idea

But you CAN’T EVEN SEE THAT when they begin to form.

And again - what happens if you do?
It strikes me that it would be much the same result as “TOPPING” so I wanted to leave some LEAFS going on…

~Frankie

PS: Give me your thoughts and notions

UPDATE: I got my software loaded and de-bugged finally



It may look odd - but what I did was shift the color hues to comp for the mars lights

~click for full size

You can see where the trimmed leaves are


#4

I pluck off all tops every 3 to 6 days depending on growth rates… no scissors or razors… just twist them off… :crazy_face::face_with_symbols_over_mouth:

:v::sunglasses:


#5


Top pic also shows my method of using skewers and wire to train branches out flatter
(?) Umm… Actually it hard to see isn’t it?

PS: I only wanted to do this once, nothing too radical or it would slow everything down
~Maybe next time, though 'Fuzz

I kinda think it’s overdue to bud as it is, just under 20 inches tall. They have begun to develop a bit of a ‘skunky’ smell, a good sign I think…


#6

Matter of fact tonight I noticed the soil was too dry (which explains the yellowing) despite me spraying an entire liter or MORE of water ON THEM. The meter never lies! I probed the soil as a regular routine, and found it drier than it should have been. PH is normal, but the big deal in THIS post is detail on the “tie downs” I use to hold the branches out flatter and increase the spread of the entire plant.

This is non-invasive and as shown is done with skewers as stakes, that wire is wrapped around to form Mini ‘Shepherds Crooks’.

Upper branches can simply be wired to lower ones that have already been trained (purple fuzzy wires)



Several of the branches have been trained almost exactly horizontal as opposed to growing upward at an angle of 60 degrees, which is what is normal for the plant. So instead of crowding the top they have become considerably better spread out - and light can get into the plant thoroughly.

This would also be good if I had the lights overhead, but my idea was to direct the light into the foliage from both sides to provide as much light energy as possible

A quick note on “WOOD ASH” (potash source):
I found some info online about using a 2 liter bottle 1/3 filled with hard wood ashes and then topped up with HOT (!) water to dissolve the potassium chloride into a clear solution that can then be poured off carefully, leaving any precipitants in the bottle. Some charcoal may float to the top, but it can be got rid of easily,

This results in a clear solution that can be used directly or further refined by boiling down.

You want to look up “How to Make Potash Fertilizer” at various places online so that you have the full story on that

One of the things that struck me about this idea was that the actual Potash is water soluable, so it should be readily flushable if necessary

I think I must have attempted the FIMM at just the right moment (or the last possible one), because above that point the branches are coming out as “singles” rather than “pairs” of branches on opposite sides