Question about one of our plants

Hi All,

In our legal rec grow we have 2 MarionBerry Kush, 1 BDS Special Fem, 5 Borderline XTRM, 2 Tutankamon for our gentecis. I have posted pics of one of our Tuts that shows yellowing on one side of the leaf and only on one side of the plant. It appears to grow just fine compared to the other sibling and strains we have. We have one other female of this strain and it is normal and all the other plants look healthy and are growing fine.

We have 2 bags of Foxfarm soil mixed with one bag of organic miricle grow topsoil in 25 gal fiber pots. Soil pH is tested and we water with 6.5 RO water. Thinking it might be an iron problem we started folair feeding with a mild micronutrient. Then moved to folair feeding a 1/5 strength hydro grow solution. Doesn’t seem to make much difference.

Anyone seen this before?

Here’s a pic of 2 of our growing tents, just finishing week 7 of life. Already been trimmed back several times and 4-8 clones removed from each. The gal in question is on the far left and up front. As you can see she’s growing just as well as the others.

That’s what we thougth as well but didn’t see any change with folair feeding a dilute “micro” hydro mix. I went back and looked at pics and the partial tellow leaf symptom is there from the beginning. The plant in the middle is the one in question. 2 wks out of the ground in this pic.

Foliar feeding with various different nutrients is not a great idea. Also; If it needed iron and you feed it 20% of suggested nutrient strength; You will not provide the iron as needed. It will still be low on iron; If of course it is an iron deficiencie. This does not make sense to me as all other plants are fine. I think something happened to that one seed.

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Thats a zinc deficiency there buddy if you ask me. Its a micro nute that some nutes dont come with. The leafs start actin crazy and tuirnin yellow, and all the new growth comes out deformed. Find you a new veg nute, or a micro nute with it in it. Another thing that causes it sometimes is some people that dont know any better use chlorine drops for they’re water in hydro, or in the water out of tap before feeding thinking its taking out the chloine, which, it does. But it also takes all the metals out your nute mix. Like copper, “zinc” and so on and so forth. I’m almost 100% posotive thats what ya got man. Or its a high Ph and you need to lower it so your plant can uptake the nutes that ARE there. Cause you dont want to add nutes if thats the problem cause it will make it worse. GL man! This is a killer so I hope for the best

Post by SouthernPride »
Zinc plays a roll in the same enzyme functions manganese and magnesium. More than eighty enzymes contain tightly bound zinc essential for their function. Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation and helps prevent chlorophyll destruction. Carbonic anhydrate has been found to be specifically activated by zinc.

Zinc Deficiencies

Deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the inter-veinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance as seen in figure 18. This may be accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.

Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don’t overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that’s the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc. Zinc deficiency produces “little leaf” in many species, especially woody ones; the younger leaves are distinctly smaller than normal. Zinc defeciency may also produce “rosetting”; the stem fails to elongate behind the growing tip, so that the terminal leaves become tightly bunched.

Zinc Toxicity

Excess Zinc is extremely toxic and will cause rapid death. Excess zinc interferes with iron causing chlorosis from iron deficiency. Excess will cause sensitive plants to become chlorotic.

There ya go man. Hope this helps
Post by SouthernPride »


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@latewood I think something happened to that one seed.

I think your right, as the other side of the plant is perfectly fine. You’d think if it was a true defiency it would be present in all the new growth. I think the other clue became apparent when I went back and looked at the pics over the last 7 weeks.Always that side of the plant and the leaves thrive and grow. We’ll see what happens, other than the discolored leaves she growing well.

Ok I was thinking and you say its always on that one side of the plant. Now I believe that if it were a damaged seed. I don’t think the damaged seed would even germinate. At least I never got one to.
Anyway coyld it be that when you feed your plant that your piur your solution more on that one side. Because this is the only thing that makes sense to me. All the nutrient s going to mostly one side and bing taken in by the root ball just on that side of the plant thus creating the deficiency on that side. Please be honest because I’ve given this alot of thought…


Just wounding just what was the ph ?
And it could 'very well be from overwatering, but I guess we’ll never mever now


24 hour standing pH was 6.8, we water with 6.5. I’ll figure it out, l’ll tune them once in the hydro. We’re using Humboldt’s 3 part solutions and they have worked really well for us in the past grows.

Well your ph is I bit high , but not really that much out of range.
Please let me know if or when you get it down to say…6’0. 6.5. 6.5 is good


Soil should be 6.3-6.8 if you go to 6.0 that’s a bit out of range

You do not get a deficiency in one plant an no others!

Yes; Now that you describe the fact that you transplanted and possibly damaged the 1/2 yellow “Tut”; I believe you over water this plant due to the fact that you use a measured amount for all plants despite their size. You have probably figured it out.

I do not know why members here are pushing you to PH your solution at 6.0. You already know that is wrong, and I am disappointed with some members copy/pasting facts that do not fit the question at hand.

We all need to know the type soil, and the PH, and what type of nutrients. You made that plain to all but, some replies are just off!

Keep doing what you are doing. All your plants look fine. :slight_smile: Back off the watering on the 1/2 yellow plant, and monitor the new growth.

Lastly; Damaged seeds can germinate and be deformed. However; My meaning in this case was that the seedling was damaged. It appears the grower confirmed this. So; We have a plant that after being transplanted did not respond to the process well, and was damaged.

The grower said he used Foxfarm and Miracle grow. Zinc is in those soils. So is Calcium and Magnesium.

Happy growing.

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Been busy with work. (Gosh, got to pay them bills).

Sean, my son and my Master Grower in training, did another
24 hour soak for pH and TDS, here’s his report

"I have the chart here but all 10 came out between
6.0-6.3 pH with an average pH of 6.10 and 300-700

with an average of 500. I think this TDS drift is a result
of what we discussed with the variation in the sample size. The three lowest
TDS readings of 300 look like outliers and also have the higher pH values,
being less full of dirt.

Water went in 6.85 pH and ~ 6 TDS

Regardless we went from 6.85 -> an average pH of 6.10. I
anticipated an acidic shift but that’s a little larger than I expected. I’m not
concerned at the TDS levels but I don’t think I need to continue feeding at the
rates I am".

My comments to him were to standardize is soil sample and
water volumes, variation in ratio will change results. As he saw.

A TDS average of 500 is too low. Not only from the data and
experience but from what we see from the plants. He’s color bind so sometime color shifts are
difficult for him to see. So I think I’m
going to start having him take photos in B&W to see if he can detect color shifts
easier that way. While I have had plants that flourish at a lower TDS (600,
being the lowest I can remember), I can see a response lag from leaf pruning
and subsequence plant grow.

We’ve started training the girls to fill the 7x7 tents and
then we’ll flip. Man these girls are
already very sticky and stinky! Big Tut’s leafs I shared pics of have already
darken significantly and new grow has risen several levels above that area. These girls are ready to produce flowers!

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coming along nicely 4-5 weeks left to harvest


“it’s starting to look a lot
like,… BIG BUDS”

“My favorite time of year”


Nice!! Great job